health mechanic

Oddly,out of 4 manifolds , one of the piping have started to show brown discolouration. See below. Using heat gun there does not seem to be any leaks on any of the runs to suggest contamination from tiling glue. So thought maybe corrosion...but why is this occurring in just 1 manifold and not all...or could this be contamination from small leak. Not sure of inhibitor was used on any of the ufh manifolds

Good suggestion Dave, guess a bit late to do that now. Why is the temp warmer on the first config reading on the circular thermomemter, is it because it's not having a valve stopping entry?

Have 4 manifolds in my property for a wet ufh...3 of the manifolds have been fitted with the hot and cold valves before the pump and one with the valves after the pump. Not sure if there is a correct way and why it has been done in the 2 different ways as manufacturer spec suggests the former. The latter config u can feel hotwater being fed to the manifold even when not running but on other not...otherwise performs well. See photos

@Dave Jones is it definately a building control fail having a collection of water....the most annoying thing is that pool of water outside the bedroom is causing mosquitoes to gather. @steveoelliott have you had any issues since install

Hi dave Yes has cavity tray (if i recall). The plywood and single ply acts as a cavity closer. Building regs were happy with it. The outlet is 100mm..but agree too high. The roofing company are saying its water proof and suitable for swimming pools and do not want to change the outlet, the dip near outlet I suggested they build up to allow it to be higher than outlet, but they were not keen.

Don't get me started on the pool of water....whT happens when u get your builder to do random furling stripes...and a private roof company to do the membrane....cannot do anything about it now unless you know how

How do people fix coping stones onto a single ply (vanguard) covered parapet warm roof. The upstand and top of parapet had plywood before the single ply was lapped completely over to the edge of of the parapet. Would you SBR the the membrane, allow it to dry few hrs and then apply a cement sand mix then while wet paint bottom of coping with sbr/cement mix and apply?, but at 35kg per stone would this work or would you allow the sand cement mix to dry and then sbr/cement bottom of stone and then fix. Also have a 45 degree area as per photo is this method okay in that area too. Would the cement mix close the membrane over the ply to protect and cappillary leakage into there

Presume damaged while laying screed.....yep will leave pressurised for couple of weeks...is it worth taping......how on earth do you lift those clips up

Near edge....this is what plumbers done..is it okay to reschedule without wrapping with waterproof tape

After due diligence with pressure testing downstairs....the screed was laid on the overlay ufh system upstairs (having carpet) without pressure testing a month ago. Got plumber in to pressure test today to 2 bars and noticed an hr later what appears to be a leak coming from master bedroom with crack in screed and water bubbling up. Have closed the Valves to the pipes which has slowed down. Now repair....is it okay just to dig that area of screed up and put a coupler in....plumber can place a push fit couple but doesn't have one that crimps that I would prefer. Anyone had similar issues. Annoyed as was done the 2 days I was away from site and builder did not supervise his subbies.

My rear part of my extension is timber on 2nd floor. My aluclad windows are being fitted in with compriband and then foam inside. Is there a need for flashing at the bottom reveal. Window fitter does not think so...as worried about sandwiching water in. But most videos I have seen seem to have some sort of flashing. Front of house is double cavity without flashing.

Thanks all

Tempting...but worried about render and quality of finish from outside

Anyone have details around southampton....I have prices of >400

My zehnder unit has insulated 230mm insulated ducts going into a 250 external grill. Exit is in my warm roof on gable end. How are people drilling 250mm hole through standard block cavity walls. Hand drill will not cope with anything greater than 150mm diameter. Don't want to stitch drill as external already rendered. And the big rigs are extortionate to rent and have never used. Any help?

@joe90 carbs are killers...not fats

In what way joe

It's the grease I worry about...dpmiller did you extract out? It's that balance of Airtightness and a practical home. Our cooking produces a lot fo grease. And smells that not sure a recirculating can handle..seen the filter on those that just have mvhr in the kitchen.. clogs pretty quick. Are there any recirculating models that have the ability to still house a a mantle on top of the Cooker...cannot dee how possible?

Has anyone fitted an mvhr unit with a standard Cooker hood in kitchen. About to fit my zehndher this week. Our house which is being renovated had a standard extractor hood which my wife loved and was relatively quiet. The rental property we are staying while work is being done has a recirculator which is loud and the air blowing my wife does not like. I can see her point as the type of cooking we do does have a lot of grease. The house is not going to be super air tight (not the greatest builders but we have accepted the pros and cons of mvhr already and proceeded to go ahead...will be doing aerobarrier at some point to catch up). Is the negative effects that great not worth considering. My thinking is that only when in use it will cause slight depressurisation and I will loose usefully heat but won't disrupt the mvhr when not in use.

Windows are 8 weeks away Roof almost slated. In regards to the floor joist...surely if it's airtight above subdeck floor to wall junction it's should be okay....as the area is being vented from vents?

Thanks for comments. Photo is of ground floor See below plans 

Have decided that will be going mvhr on my 2 storey wrap around extension built with blocks and standard joists. New block and beam floor with old suspended timber. Roof slates going on, windows and sliders 9 weeks away. About 20% of external perimeter is old cavity walls with 75mm. So to get flush walls battening 25mm internal Wall where old meet new. Builders has already battened walls, and outside where cladding. First fix electrical and plumbing awaiting. Should the passive purple/blower be put on directly onto walls and take battening off, or as awaiting first fix plaster and board and then apply. Also is it worth filling where ground floor joist meet inner leaf, or no pint as will be sealing above that. Has anyone used it fir vcl under cladding and does it matter if applied after battens put in or before. Picture below of 1 of the rooms

Has anyone used this..with soaring price of cedar, looks a nice alternative...but not sure how it greys.

Brickies started so well..but slacking at end..agree will have to see if extra heavy straps will do. There is an ashlar wall which may take some of the slacking but not ideal. Not sure of any other solution?..you take eye off the ball for a day and this happens.

Old external cavity walls were 105-70-100...total depth 270.....new are 100...100..100...total 300 Not issue on gable ends..where no wall plate, but front where front it is as half old wall , half new.....rear is stud so no issues Seemed they wanted to marry up with inner leaf