johnhenstock83

the extension is indeed work in progress and it's just a shell with plenty of holes, so ventilation is there. there's also a CO alarm between existing door/window, so should there be an issue, we'd know, but the fumes are ejected away from the house and disappear into thin air. the only issue is that when it raises, all the water vapour in the fumes condenses on the joists (roof is still exposed) and I'm afraid that's destroying it long term. a few weeks wouldn't be a problem, but we've had some delays with the builder, it's been winter months now. the boiler is planned to be moved before the extension is finished, we just can't do it yet due to planning (as in coordinating builders) issues. thanks

hi all, a bit of a short question on our boiler flue. we currently have an extension shell with a 3.6m wide opening (for bifold) and 3 skylights (1200x800). the boiler flue sits at the back of the house, "in" the extension. because it's not closed at all and we don't spend any time there, it's not really an issue, the exhaust fumes don't hang around and are gone almost as quickly as before. the main issue we're having is that because of the cold, the fumes condense excessively on the roof joists and chipboards, which are wet most of the time and have started showing some signs of mould (local). my question is whether I can hang a pipe off the roof joists (easily done) and basically "extend" the flue plume kit to the edge of the extension. for the record, this is not tempering with the actual flue, it's placing a pipe at the end of the black bit, where the gas comes out, to "move it" from the back of the house to the end of the extension. thanks

I'll make some further inquiries, but by the sound of it, there's no night and day difference between the two where double glazing means I'll be losing heat day and night while triple glazing would keep all the heat inside. I think I might stick to double glazing since the rest of the insulation in and around the extension is really good + oversized radiators connected to a very efficient boiler. As for the price, you're right, they are cheap. I found the same ones for considerably more, I just can't see myself forking two and half time the price for basically the same product. While I'm sure there are some differences in build quality, I'm also convinced I won't be getting a swiss cheese of a frame. The entire project is a mid-budget one anyway, so it should do. Thanks all!

Hi everyone, I'm very close to ordering a bifold (3600x2100mm) for our extension and I've been given the choice between standard double glazing, argon filled, and hardened triple glazing, argon filled. I know triple is better than double, but is it worth it? The price difference is around £900 (£2700 double, £3600 triple), but then it's a one off cost. the extension has cavity walls (brick, rockwool, breeze block) and the roof is a flat roof with celotex insulation (120mm) and triple glazed skylights. Would the triple glazing make a significant difference? Existing house is very warm and energy costs are quite low, despite high prices, and it's double glazed all round. Am I right in thinking that triple glazing is more suitable for sound insulation and won't make a significant difference to a house/extension that's already properly insulated? Any thoughts are much appreciated! PS: it's a smarts visofold aluminium frame bifold, in case it matters.

Update: he was on holiday for a month and a half

Quick update: I dropped by his house. Car in the front, lights on, some movement inside, but no one answered the door (knocked, rang the bell, before one of you says he didn't hear me). My number is definitely blocked, it simply doesn't connect, whatsapp does the same and that's over wifi. Unfortunately the moving on issues is easier said than done, the sector is paralised. No one is interested in small jobs anymore and whatever builders I can get to drop by to provide a quote never get in touch. I'll wait until Monday, if I don't get a reply, I'll go down the official route and take him to small claims. Regarding the amount I can claim back, is it a case of getting several quotes, let's say three, and claiming the average?

Full details (full name, full address, phone number). I know it's not that because I tried calling at different time of day, doesn't make any difference. it simply doesn't connect, the typical sign that a number is blocked. I texted as well. I also messaged him on whatsapp, it shows as undelivered. I'll send him a more official letter as advised above, if he doesn't respond in 14 days, I'll have the works rectified by someone else and take him to a small claims court.

the eaves of your roof should allow daylight in all round. that will provide enough ventilation and keep your roof dry, even in extremely cold weather. we have a similar setup on a 1950s house, roof is bone dry all year round, despite being properly insulated and boarded. just clean the soffits every now and then and make sure there's a 5" gap between whatever insulation you have in place and the roof. the wet joists will be fine, it doesn't look like permanent damage, they'll dry in no time with extra ventilation.

It didn't ring any alarms because there was a very good reason for the skylights not to be installed at the time, otherwise he'd have done them. not defending the builder or anything, I think he's very unprofessional for ghosting customers with which he had good engagement, but he did do things when he said he would do them and he stuck to the price. since it was us who weren't exactly sure when the boiler would be moved, we didn't want to withhold payment for months. getting those skylights installed won't cost a fortune, hence it didn't cross my mind he would ghost us for... £200?

A very simple contract most likely drafted by the builder stating our details (names, addresses, contact details), the scope and spec of the works along with information on warranties. attached was also a copy of his insurance documents. builder found on trustatrader, good reviews, stuck to the timeline and came across as serious. until the works started, where we had a few hiccups, but nothing extremely worrying. no, it was 4 equal payments, including a deposit. when the roof was finished, I paid the final instalment, on mutual agreement that he'll come back to install the skylights at a date that suits me. I have this specified in the contract, along with a written acknowledgment (text) from him, AFTER the final payment was made, that he'll return to install them.

happy new year! I was wondering if someone can share some advice around dealing with a builder that seems to have blocked my number out of nowhere. we have a contract with this builder to build an extension shell, which he did. the skylights couldn't be installed due to a boiler flue, but are included in the price and in the contract, there's no doubt about it. we wished each other merry christmas (this was weeks after the shell was finished) and agreed that I'll be in touch in the new year to agree a date for the skylights. I tried contacting him last week, turns out he blocked my number (whatsapp too). I dropped a note through his letterbox asking him to give me a call when he has time, nothing. first, there's the issue of the skylights, which I will need installed, I paid for that. would an official letter reminding him of his contractual obligations be a wise first move? I'm prepared to go all the way if need be, the contract is with him as a sole trader, so his house and vehicles are on the line. second, the warranty. unfortunately, he hasn't finished the roof off properly and it's already leaking in several places. slowly, but surely. if he's not even bothered to fulfil his contract, what can I expect when things go wrong further down the line? should I mention the roof in the same letter or should I treat these as separate issues? any advice is welcome. PS: I don't know what's going on, but we've been trying to get another builder. ghosting is the norm of the day, no one seems to care or be serious anymore. where does one find a builder that actually builds things?

thanks jilly, that makes sense. I'll create separate posts for each question, not all at once.

no answers? would it help if I posted some diagrams? I could really use some advice, though I'll admit it's not urgent, we're not resuming works until the second week of january.

afternoon, I had several questions on the next step of my extension project, I'm hoping you can help me out with some advice. we have a rear extension and at some point next year we'd like to resume the works. screed is one of the things that need doing and I'm confused about several things: 1. the original house has the DPC 2 courses above ground level, but the internal screed is 3 courses above ground (as are the doors). basically I have the DPC, another course of bricks and that's where the floor level is. the extension outside has been built with the same specs in mind, so the top of my new screed in the extension will be above DPC. the question I have is around the DPM. we have left around 1ft of skirting in the extension, tucked nicely under the DPC. if I create a vapour barrier and attach it to that all round using a DPM, will that be enough? won't I have any problems with damp or humidity? is there any good practice regarding this or am I worrying for nothing? 2. we're looking to use at least 100mm thick celotex type insulation under the screed, potentially even thicker. suggestions around thickness are welcome, there is some flexibility. my question was more around upstands. I understand the concept and I'm happy to use them, but upstands are around 20mm thick. won't they compress when the screed is poured? also, what's best: celotex upstands (20mm thick) or the blue, squashy foam I see used in every screed job? I'm rather insulate the edges with an upstand, but if the blue foam is enough, it's cheaper. any thoughts on this? 3. at some point, we will knock down the wall between the house and the extension. as this is an external wall (cavity, 300mm, brick/brick or brick/block), I expect a cavity will be revealed when the wall is removed. one or two courses of bricks will have to go, to allow the new screed to connect to the existing one. what can I expect to find in the cavity and what's the best way to bridge the gap? can I fill the cavity with concrete and not worry about damp? what I fail to understand is how to create a damp proof barrier underneath the screed, between the two screeds. 4. we are going for a 3.6m wide bifold. the opening is nice and square, but there is a cavity directly underneath it. brick on the outside (2 to DPC, 1 to bifold, to match existing house) and breeze block inside (1 course). I don't understand how to bridge the cavity under the bifold without filling the cavity or compromising on structural strength. someone suggested removing the blocks on the inside along the width of the bifold and screeding all the way to the brick course. is that do-able? if so, can I just run the DPM 1 course above DPC? it's too late to tuck it nicely under DPC. worth mentioning that the oversite is block and beam with about 4 inches gap underneath. any help is welcome and I'm happy to provide more details. thanks!

thanks for that. I guess I'd be happy with the system linked above, I just need to find out if it's enough to have one single vent in the landing upstairs. that would be easy to install, downstairs vents not so much. but from what you said and the issues we're having (house doesn't breathe that much due to insulation, no trickle vents in windows, high humidity due to lifestyle etc.), I don't really need a PIV system (as in getting the air in), but an extraction system with heat recovery. is that correct? I basically want the humid air out, not new fresh air in. or I want fresh air in, but how does the "old", stale, humid air leave the house if I don't have trickle vents?

we are currently in the middle of an extension project and while there are so many things I didn't know initially, I would now start by installing the RSJ in the right place before doing anything else. not demolishing the wall, just having the RSJ ready. it's a very messy job if done at a later stage and it simply adds to the "stress" of building works if you live in the building. whereas if you don't need to worry about the beams, you build the extension and simply remove the wall without any worries or complications, one brick at a time... when done, everything else is done too.

hi, we're lucky to have a house that's damp free, but there are some ventilation issues. the house is well built (1950s ex council) and the original mortar is lime based, breathes really well. the issue is that the house has been properly insulated with double glazing, cavity insulation (beads) and loft insulation (270mm + 30mm air + tongue & grove boarding). house is extremely warm and heats up in no time, holds temperature really well too, it's a blessing in the current circumstances. as you can imagine, though, it doesn't breathe properly. we cook a lot, shower daily, bathe the children, boil the kettle etc. and that creates a lot of moisture. needles to say, the house corners, for example, are quite cold and I can feel moisture on the walls (outside is bone dry, so no leak/damp etc.). I found the vent axia pureair home system, which seems to be what I need. I did have a few questions though: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/VAPAHH.html 1. my understanding is that this will be installed in the loft and the vent will be upstairs, in the hallway. is this usually enough to ventilate the entire house? I don't want to disturb the recently renovated bedrooms/walls to route ducting all the way downstairs from the loft. 2. is this system enough for a medium sized 3 bed terrace? it's around 100sqm. 3. I can see the original ventilation bricks on the external walls, but they've clearly been plugged on the inside, as it's just plasterboard. is it worth opening these up? if so, what do I install? I like the idea of direct ventilation, but without losing heat in the process. any thoughts on the above would be much appreciated, thank you all!

evening all, my name is john, I'm 35, living in surrey with partner and 3 children. I've had some bad experiences with builders and we're in the middle of having an extension built. I'm planning to do as much as possible myself, I'm very technical and have a lot of attention to detail. just wanted to say hello. if there's anything I need to know about how to (and how NOT to) use this forum, please shout. cheers