pauldoc

How do I calculate heat loss... I've gone for the best levels of insulation I could afford. Not the levels of some on here but 160mm celotex in walls and the same in the roof (vaulted ceilings rooms in roof) triple glazing. The downstairs is ufh and rads upstairs. It's approximately 425 m2. Is there a website or app that does the calcs? Sorry for all the questions!

Thank you all for your replies. I agree with what you guys are all saying. My plumber has said a number of times that you 'should' have a system that can cope with a peak load, i.e lots of showers and baths or for future owners of the house. I really don't think having in excess of 300L is needed. And it's really just the occasional bath. Also as its gas the recovery is pretty quick. Our existing 150L takes about 20 mins so not the end of the world. Jack I think I'll run your suggestion by the plumber. I really don't see how our usage as a family will rise that much. While on the plumbing topic he has also mentioned that we may need 2 boilers! Does anyone know how I can work out what size boiler I need? Again I can't see that being necessary but would rather be armed with the right info before I discuss it with him

Had a conversation with my plumber about cylinder size. The house will be 5 beds and 4 bathrooms. 2 have a bath. We will be having gas and an un vented system like mega flo. He thinks I might need 2 cylinders of 200 litres each as he thinks it should be spec'd to the max usage. There are 4 of us (2 kids) at the mo our house has a 150 litre tank as seems to be plenty. I'm also worried about heating that much water every time. I was thinking a 300 litre tank would be plenty. Any opinions welcome! Thanks

Love the stairs and the wall. Can you tell me what you used on the wall? are they large tiles?? Looking do do something similar myself

I agree but just wanted to prevent the greying for a long as possible really

Thank you for the information. Am I right in thinking this one is a 2 process application?

The cedar cladding is due to go up next week. I would prefer to prevent it greying as long as possible. I have read on here people have used osmo oil. My installer has recommended Treatex cedar oil. He said it's the only thing he's come across that really works and really likes it. Has anyone on here used it or have an opinion on it. Reading up on it it looks easy to install and leaves a natural finish which is what I would like...not too shiny. It's reasonably priced too. I believe the person who started the company was originally at osmo(don't know how true that is) Its an uncoloured oil. I notice osmo has a few different options. There are other oils availability so if anyone has any others they recommend happy to hear thanks, Paul

OK I will have another chat with him. I did put a call in this morning. He did hold his hands up and say he didn't know the answers to the new regs as they were new and issues/questions hadn't arisen yet. When I put to him about 'hand made' windows now not being allowed then, he did say that was a good point and he said he honestly didn't know the answer. I don't think he is being a jobs worth. I think he is trying to help and get the answer I want but it is taking a long time! I will point out the 'requirement' to him and see what he says

This is what I found to Peter. My BCO has said basically Windows have to have the pas 24:2012 standard. The windows I chose haven't got that certificate yet, it's due next March (hopefully). I am waiting for the documents from ideal combi that has the glazing and locks spec to send over to him. Do you think that would be sufficient or it absolutely has the have the pas/secured by design cert? The windows haven't got any of the other cert numbers as far as I know. I'm not sure what you would do if you wanted bespoke handmade windows now?

i'll take a look thanks

That was my thinking Peter. I haven't checked that with BCO yet. However Ideal Combi advise against it as the certification is on the order confirmation. it could be that maybe although they say it will be certified by march , they cant guarantee it. What do you mean by 'stat decs' ?

I think this will apply more to people just starting building or ordering windows now. Has anyone had an issue with the updated Part Q to build regs that applies to windows. They came into effect 1st Oct 2015. I have been informed by my build inspector I have to conform to this which I get. The problem seems to be that quite a lot of window companies are not up to speed with it. It doesn't apply to replacement windows but does to new builds....Great! You basically have to have windows with a PAS 2012 cert to comply. I wanted to order some Ideal combi 'Frame IC' windows but have been informed they wont be certified until next March. Even though the windows will be the same as they are now, but haven't had the lab cert. They are quality triple glazed ali clad windows (within our budget) which is very annoying as we will have to compromise with another supplier now. Any words of advice to get around this?

Morning guys, thank you all for your info. For those now living in the house, how have you found the sound insulation properties? are the bedroom quiet or can you hear outside more in the upstairs? I ask because in our previous house our bedroom was in the roof above the garage and not as sound insulated as the rest of the bedrooms. It wasn't an old house but I suspect not insulated by the developer very well

Also any pointers where I might get the best price? I read Prodave mentioned SIG, I gave my local branch a call earlier and he had never heard of framtherm!! asked me to spell it too Doesn't fill you with much confidence! Anyway he said his branch didn't have it and to call Bedford or Liverpool branch (im in Kent) Didn't offer to say they could get it in or give me a price

thanks guys, so just to be clear, you both think the frametherm stuff will be better for sound proofing and insulation purposes than a pir type It will keep the heat out in the summer aswell? sorry with all the questions depending on what my funds can stretch to, would you recommend 140mm frametherm with 50mm pir, or 180 mm frametherm with 30mm oir?

and what u value did this achieve do you know?

Is the 140mm high density frametherm?

I have read through a number of posts both here and on ebuild. I just want to check I am heading in the right direction with my proposal. Like quite a few of you, my upstairs is in the vaulted roof space. The vertical element is already pre insulated by the frame company with 120mm pir, plus an additional 40mm finished with a service batten. The roof comes straight of the wall. The rafters are 195mm and pretty sure are 600mm centres. Now the architect has specified the following to insulate the roof- 160mm kingspan Kooltherm K7 between rafters, vcl, then plasterboard. My main concerns are price and if this is the best solution for the job. I have quite a large area to insulate. A quick look for prices and this K7 seems incredibly expensive, a 120mm 1200x2400 is roughly £72 ex vat Also im sure I read on here there are concerns about the real thermal and sound insulation properties this type of insulation has. As its a room in the roof I am particularly concerned about the sound insulation qualities. On a previous topic, Knauf frametherm was suggested as a better alternative. My guess is that I would go with 2 layers of Frametherm 90mm 35 between the rafters, with a pir as thick as I can afford across/under the rafters-prob 30/40mm, finished with a service batten and plasterboard. Would this be a better solution both u value wise, heat decrement wise and sound insulation wise? And would it work out cheaper? thanks in advance

This is how my quote is being done, cost per socket etc I have either really underestimated the electric budget or my main contractor is very expensive, probably an element of both. You live and learn I guess, but as most have pointed out its best to have a detailed schedule pre commencement. But I think a lot of us find it both difficult to work out and fimd the time to do so

Thanks for the replies gents. Also on this topic am I right in thinking that the boiler controls and underfloor heating controls would be done by the electrician?

Not sure if this has been asked before but trying to gauge /estimate my electrics cost. Is it normal to quote by the socket, light fitting etc? Any electrician out there who could give me some direction? I know there are other elements like consumer board. At this stage I am trying to get an idea if quotes are sensible or not. I am in the south east if that makes any difference

thanks for the info,much appreciated

Good idea thanks

When buying certain materials for my build my present billing address is different from the site address and I am also getting the goods delivered to my present billing address (for security reasons) i.e smaller things like electrical stuff and also my velux windows. Will this cause a problem when it comes to doing my VAT reclaim as the build address isn't on the invoice?

thanks that makes sense, I will do that. I really thought that this would have been provided, especially if the frame company had been used to erect?