JackofAll

Just looking at the heat geek page as I needed to interpret that table. Am a little smarter now than when I woke up, thanks John. So there is no need for the buffer as per table. Re the plumber, it's what i thought, but God knows how long we'll have to wait to get a new guy this time of year.

Thanks John. 9Kw. There is a buffer that came with the kit, though not sure if he'll be using it. If he is, it will be 9/10 m from the HP. Again 9/10m to cylinder from HP. I believe there's a pump on the unit whether or not that would be fit to drive the water around a 1900 odd bungalow I've no clue, Imagine another would be required if not?

Plumber has given me a list of items to get for second fixing house. Among them is 1"acorn piping and lagging for the flow and return to outside. According to heat pump installation guide it states 28mm copper or 35mm if using plastic. I've pointed this out and his reply was, usually use 1"acorn but your heat pump could be different. I know he's never fitted a monobloc HP before only split systems, but am concerned as he doesn't appear confident in comparison to other trades that I've dealt with. Should I be looking further afield?

Won't go wrong with Hilliard and his team.

My preference would be to tile the whole floor and sit kitchen on top rather than tiling under units also don't fancy having to lift/move stone worktop to accommodate tiles if moving the units is an option. Looking like fitting kitchen first is the only option, thanks @Conor @Gus Potter. BTW the decoupling matting is .85mm thick, so not really that thick.

The floor is concrete, been poured since August 2023. no cracks to date but have been assured that it will crack when heating is up and running. I guess as the tiles are costly may be foolish not to use matting? the guy suppling the tiles thinks we're mad to use it(matting) even though would be supplying it,go figure! you could well be right re. tiling early.

Anti crack matting used?

left out a vital piece of info, we haven't even installed the ashp yet, probably 5/6 weeks away.

300mm full fill knauf dritherm 37 all good,(so far) 🙂

Sorry for long winded post. So have been told that UF heating would need to be run for a couple of weeks to find out where the cracks will form (if any) in the floor before tiling can commence. We've no power connected and have no idea when it will be. Currently under pressure to get kitchen in as we've postponed it several times due to hold-up's at various stages of the project. Anyhoo, a few different tilers that we've spoken to recommend not covering whole floors with decoupling mat but only cover where cracks are in floor. But am thinking if we covered whole kitchen floor with decoupling mat it wont matter where cracks form(if any) as the membrane stops cracks cracking tiles? and kitchen can be fitted. Anyone forsee any issues?

Currently living in house, no electric and no water connected, we're a solid 19 degrees first thing every morning, If you built a passive house probably wouldn't be too concerned about UFH on either floor. just use slippers 🙂

Take it you didn't opt for the pre plumbed panasonic tank with built in buffer.

The autism in me is screaming at this oddity, but at least it's at the back of the house. If water gets in-between the sash and the frame where does it go to? There are slots in there but no apparent exit.

So outside of house now dashed and as per window fitters instructions I went about installing the weep slot covers. Thought they be the same colour as window but are black plastic, felt like weeping myself at the sight of em, anyhow I only noticed that one of the windows has no slots for the covers. Are these essential and any advice, thanks

Can only add that we didn't add a vcl on the inside of a full fill mineral wool cavity, also didn't ventilate the cavity.