tommyleestaples

Thanks will take a look. Just noticed Jackoboard do these fixings, I wonder how they would be with thermalite blocks

Sorry what do you mean BG do a knock in for this purpose?

Hi all, I had an extension done and one of the walls in the en-suite is thermalite which is nice and level. I need to board this wall out with insulated tile backer boards. I was planning to prime the thermalite wall with SBR Then apply a rapid set flexible cement based tile adhesive to the tile backer board with a 1/4 inch trowel and then fit the board to the wall. Once the tile adhesive has dried I was going to mechanically fix the board as well. Does this sound correct?

Thanks for your reply Beau. I have used 1.5mm T&E and they are only LED spotlights. Could of prob got away with 1mm. So sounds like cables first, then insulation with cable coming through the insulation to the individual spot lights

I need to run lighting cables for the ground floor lights in the ceiling. I will be doing this from below. The void between the two floors will also be filled with 100mm acoustic insulation. Should the lighting cables sit above or below the acoustic insulation.

Any issues with offsetting wall units from the wall with 10mm wooden batten? Just need to bring them forward by 10mm

Thank you very much. I will get some top soil ordered up!

Hi all, I have a friend who can help me this weekend so was going to get them to remove some concrete posts. There are 3 to remove, one will be replaced with a new concrete post and the other 2 are in the wrong places. I am not in a position right now to put the new concrete posts. Therefore planning to back fill with soil the two holes that are in the wrong place and will try and compact it down. I would appreciate feedback on this. With the post that needs to be replaced for now could I just leave the concrete post in the hole ready to just be pulled out and replaced at a later stage? Thanks

I need to do this soon as the steels sit proud of the joists. If I batten out then I can get a nice flat ceiling. I was planning to use roofing battens at 300mm centres but it seems like 400mm would be enough with 12.5mm fire rated plasterboard? As I am using roof battens would you guys advise putting two battens side by side where the boards join?

Thanks for the advice Mr Punter.

The builders done suspended timber floor to match existing floor. Please see below a photo I believe the spacings are 400mm When I have run U Value calculators it shows I need 130mm PIR between the joists. I have included a picture of build and calculation.

Thanks for your comments. I need a u value of 0.18 W/m²K for sign off. If I could do it this way then I would, it would be much cheaper but in order to get the Uvalue needed I would need to have loads of it under there and also I have read somewhere that mice/rats love it

I have just had an extension done and before it can be signed off by building control they want to see the whole ground floor which is suspended timber floor has been insulated. In order to achieve the U-Value required they have told me it will need to be 130mm of PIR. However, my joists are only 100mm so I would appreciate any advice if people do this for a living or have had to do it on their own property. I was planning to friction fit, seal up any gaps with expanding foam then tape joins to create a vapour barrier. I was also thinking of using roof battens underneath to give me the extra depth I need or using light duty brackets fixed to the joists. The only problem I think I will come across is in some places there is pipework just under the joists and then you have the sleeper walls. Would you advise cutting section out of the PIR insulation for the sleeper walls or just putting a piece in that is less depth such as 100mm? Thanks

Hi all, I have a square en-suite which has 3 walls made of stud work and then one wall is thermalite blocks. I am looking to use insulated tile backer boards with a shower tray. I just wanted to make sure I was doing it right! I am planning to board the walls with 12mm Jackoboard insulated tile backer board right down to the Moisture resistant T&G chipboard. There shower tray area with have a coat of SBR and then bedded onto a sand and cement bed with Classi Seal Shower Tray sealant tape as an upstand around shower and then it will be tiled which will overhang the shower tray to ensure water runs into the tray. The remaining floor will be boarded with 6mm Jackoboard insulated tile backer board cut around shower tray and on a bed of tile adhesive and then screwed to the floor. Please let me know if I have done anything wrong or missed something important.

Hi all, I am looking to board the inside of my ensuite and then tile. 3 of the walls are stud walls at 400mm centres and then one wall is a very flat thermalite wall. What tile boards would people recommend? Looking for something 12mm thick. I was looking at Hardie backer boards but read that they can absorb water if you have a leak where as some of the other back boards are water repellent. Advise would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the advice all

Hi all, I am about to put up plasterboard at my property. Some dot and dab but quite alot is fixed to ply on stud work. Floor to ceiling height is 2460mm and if I use standard boards that are 2400mm long it will mean there is a gap at the bottom of 60mm. I know the boards should be raised off the floor a bit anyway but is 60mm okay. We plan to have 6 inch skirting.

Thanks for all your comments

Hi all, I have just had a shell extension done and I am about to install all the back boxes for the sockets. I know with new builds sockets have to be 450mm from the floor but as this is an extension am I able to install them the same height as the existing house? Just wanted to double check.

Thanks for your comments JohnMo. Understand what you are saying about storage combi but looking to stick with standard combi for now. In regards to heat loss calculation. I haven’t had one done but 80% of the walls are new cavity walls with 150mm rockwool insulation. The loft is insulated with 270mm rockwall. The ground floor is insulated with 100mm celotex and everywhere is double glazed. There are large bi folds to the rear 3.6m x 2.1m based on that would you go with the 32kw boiler or 40kw?

Hi all, I have just extended my house and need to choose a new Combi Boiler. The property is 4 bedrooms and will have 16 radiators in total. There is one ensuite with a shower and then a family bathroom which has a bath with shower above. I have the option of a 32kw or 40kw. The 40kw has a higher a higher DHW floor rate.

Sorry Nick I should have added the other kitchen units on the drawing, not sure why I missed them out. The reason for the vertical radiators is because of the limited wall space. on the long left wall there is kitchen units and then a boxed in soil pipe so a decent size vertical radiator fits in the space.

Would you recommend going for type 22 radiators then on the basis can turn them down and they are heating a big open space

This is all new to me so all the websites that sell radiators have a BTU calculator. I have run the calculator for all rooms to calculate the BTU I need. I have chosen radiators that exceed the BTU given as I could turn down the radiators if needed. I was initially going to get Type 22 radiators but couple of reasons. I seem to have type 21 in all the rooms on the original part of the house. Also I have tried to go for radiators that look in proportion to the wall they are on. With type 22 I would need a much smaller radiator and the BTU output still massively exceeds what the calculator states I need for each room so type 21 sort of fitted the bill. Could get radiator for right size for the wall and it still exceeded the BTU I needed by 10-20%. however I have not ordered them yet so I am open to suggestions if I have got this all completely wrong

Hi I am using T21