tommyleestaples

Thanks for all your comments

Hi all, I have just had a shell extension done and I am about to install all the back boxes for the sockets. I know with new builds sockets have to be 450mm from the floor but as this is an extension am I able to install them the same height as the existing house? Just wanted to double check.

Thanks for your comments JohnMo. Understand what you are saying about storage combi but looking to stick with standard combi for now. In regards to heat loss calculation. I haven’t had one done but 80% of the walls are new cavity walls with 150mm rockwool insulation. The loft is insulated with 270mm rockwall. The ground floor is insulated with 100mm celotex and everywhere is double glazed. There are large bi folds to the rear 3.6m x 2.1m based on that would you go with the 32kw boiler or 40kw?

Hi all, I have just extended my house and need to choose a new Combi Boiler. The property is 4 bedrooms and will have 16 radiators in total. There is one ensuite with a shower and then a family bathroom which has a bath with shower above. I have the option of a 32kw or 40kw. The 40kw has a higher a higher DHW floor rate.

Sorry Nick I should have added the other kitchen units on the drawing, not sure why I missed them out. The reason for the vertical radiators is because of the limited wall space. on the long left wall there is kitchen units and then a boxed in soil pipe so a decent size vertical radiator fits in the space.

Would you recommend going for type 22 radiators then on the basis can turn them down and they are heating a big open space

This is all new to me so all the websites that sell radiators have a BTU calculator. I have run the calculator for all rooms to calculate the BTU I need. I have chosen radiators that exceed the BTU given as I could turn down the radiators if needed. I was initially going to get Type 22 radiators but couple of reasons. I seem to have type 21 in all the rooms on the original part of the house. Also I have tried to go for radiators that look in proportion to the wall they are on. With type 22 I would need a much smaller radiator and the BTU output still massively exceeds what the calculator states I need for each room so type 21 sort of fitted the bill. Could get radiator for right size for the wall and it still exceeded the BTU I needed by 10-20%. however I have not ordered them yet so I am open to suggestions if I have got this all completely wrong

Hi I am using T21

The external walls are cavity walls full filled with Knauf DriTherm 32 150mm Cavity Wall insulation so when using a calculator gives a u value of 0.19 W/m2K. Floor is 100mm Celotex, double glazing and it is a gas combi boiler. The boiler will be running at a flow temp of 60C

Hi all, I am just in the process of selecting radiators for a quite large kitchen, diner and open plan playroom. The room is 7x7m with a wall in-between but the area is still open as you can see on the plan. We have bifolds measuring 3.6m x 2.19m with double glazing and a double glazed window 1.09m x 1.12m. The suspended timber floor underneath is insulated with 100mm PIR and the rooms above are heated. Would the number of radiators shown on my plan be enough to adequately heat the space? I would really appreciate your comments as we are not having underfloor heating.

Hi all, I have just had a shell extension completed. I have a suspended timber floor with a large void underneath. The new part of the extension also has suspended timber floors but the void is no as big however there are lots of telescopic vents around and the sleeper walls are honeycomb constructions so plenty of air floor. I wan't to insulate the ground floor to keep heat in and would like to insulate with PIR Insulation to get the required u value. I have read conflicting information online about insulating suspended timber floors and the effect it can have on the joists. Whats your thoughts and has anyone here done it?

So would they normally run the pipes through the floors roughly to where the radiators will be and then fit the rad and pipework to it once wall been plastered and painted?

Hi all, I have just had a shell only extension done. The subfloor is down upstairs but joists can be accessed from underneath. The ground floor is a suspended timber floor which is just joists at the moment with a large void/crawl space underneath. I will be putting up the stud walls on the first floor shortly and I know that now is the time to get the plumber and electrician in. Is there any particular order you guys recommend? I know plastering is done at the end after 1st fix but surely the wall that the boiler is mounted on will need to be plastered first before boiler installed and pipework run.

We are just about to insulate our roof space which will be used as a useable loft room. The new roof will be tiled with a breathable membrane. The rafters are 100mm deep. I plan to install Celotex PIR insulation or something similar in-between the rafters and then over the rafters to get the required thickness and U Values. I have ready conflicting things regarding the air gap required between the felt and the insulation. I have read it should be 50mm gap but as we are using breathable membrane could we get away with 25mm gap?

Thank you for the advice. So we are looking at something like this.

Hi all, I am about to extend my house and plan to insulate it as it seems the ideal time to do it. The ground floor is and the new parts will be suspended timber flooring with quite a void underneath. I plan to insulate between the joists. The loft will be insulated at rafter level so my question is what do I do with the ceiling void on ground floor and first floor. I have heard some people insulate between the floors but from what I read online if the floor on ground level and the rafters of the loft are insulated then you leave the floors. I am not sure what is right to it would be great to see what you guys suggest.

Thank you all for the advice on plastic grids. I plan to put them on top of the concrete base and then put the shed to raise it up off the floor. Would I need to fill them with pea shingle as shown on instructions or not as they are going on a solid concrete base rather than soil

As you can see in the picture the shed floor is raised off the floor by some supports running underneath. I will also look into the plastic grids but just a question I have a decking area of 50sqm that I need to remove and get rid off the boards are in good order. Could I run these decking boards underneath the new shed to take weight and just raise the whole shed up off the floor more?

Thanks for your reply Conor. It looks like the shed is already raised off the floor would this be enough air flow?

Hi all, I need to purchase a large shed at least 10ft by 14ft. I already have a concrete base at the end of my garden where the shed would go. The concrete is fairly level from what I have been able to check. Could I put the shed straight on this base or does it have to be raised up to prevent rot? If it has to be raised up what would you recommend is the most effective way of doing this?

I am about to extend our house adding another two bedrooms and trying to plan ahead and currently thinking about where the radiators should go. In our house currently all the radiators are on the external walls. The new walls are going to be cavity walls or insulated timber walls on the rear bedrooms. Should the radiators go on the external walls as the others are in the house or could they go on internal walls? We was planning to have the headboard of beds up against the external walls bit this would obviously block the radiator to a certain extent.

I have a feel that the concrete base in the photo is quite deep as I believe the previous owner used to fix cars and he built two vehicle inspection pits. You can still see them when you stand on the concrete but they have just been filled in now.

Thanks for your reply markc. Thanks for the advice. I definitely don't want any issues at a later date. So what would your advice be regarding the neighbours garden on the right hand side that drops down. Recommend a retaining wall?

I have a large concrete base at the bottom of my garden which is approx 40m2. I would like to build an outbuilding made of bricks at the side and breeze blocks at the front and back. I would also like to build a cavity wall to ensure the building is well insulated. When looking at picture IMG_8756 on the right hand side the neighbours garden drops down significantly as can be seen in IMG_8758. There is a small single wall that has started to lean to one side. How would be the best way to deal with this? Would you recommend removing the single wall that is leaning over and replacing with a retaining wall? I would appreciate any advice. Also happy to provide more details if needed.