Duncan62

Your Battens and counter battens - did you use UC2 treated or UC3 treated please?

That should be membrane. Yes certified: Rothoblaas Transpair Evo 160. I did the drawings. Roofer said single membrane. Will add butyl tape under each counter batten too. Belt and braces. Hopefully this sounds sensible?

Or very good carpenters are saying I should have 2 methane layers on the roof. First as a house wrap. Second draping between a counter batten, before the battens and tiles installed. Build up is: Insulation filled rafters External 60mm wood fibre insulation House wrap membrane Counter batten *Secondary membrane layer* Batten Tiles. Is this standard practice on a warm fit design? My thinking was a single membrane layer against the wood fibre?

Screws at 45 Deg will be behind the external closing so will not see them. Screws at 45 Deg take the weight of the woodfibre from sagging/bending the horizontal fasteners. I could change the 45deg ss flat head screw to a ss normal counter sink head instead.

Having searched - Fastener Types will be: GREEN 8.0 x 140mm T40 Spax Extra Long Washer Head Wood Screw, Stainless Steel RED / BLACK 8.0 x 180mm T40 Spax Extra Long Washer Head Wood Screw, Stainless Steel A2

V2

Studs are 88mm wide. We have all the dims for stud location - so hoping that is sufficient to find them!

Hello all, my SE has washed their hands of the woodfibre and cladding fixing details. So I've come up with some myself, and would like a critique - or explain what you did for a similar build please? Reading around, it looks like 45 degree fixings help to ensure there isn't any "sag" in the woodfibre/cladding due to the weight? Stainless steel Screws for corrosion resistance? Buildup: 300mm IBEAM (on 600mm centers) 18mm OSB 60mm Woodfibre House Wrap/membrane 25x50mm vertical batten 45x45mm horizontal batten Vertical thermowood cladding Prelim Woodfibre Fixing Schedule: Advice greatly appreciated!

The comfowell looks like a good solution, can't believe I've not come across it sooner! Thanks

Above advice is laudable. However I know I'm v sensitive to this so so be installing a large carbon filter on the intake to the mvhr. https://www.growell.co.uk/products/mammoth-carbon-filters?variant=44069990924532 Something like this, with pre filter on the outside. Nice and large to give minimal pressure drop.

Help (please!)

Am I overthinking it please? Some advice on the detail of the sole plate please BH. Our detail is as below. I wonder if I need to add a strip of butyl tape (yellow highlight) around the perimeter of the house under the DCP, around the edge of the concrete? (to stop any water that does make its way under, from entering the house) some photos below of a MBC build doesn't seem to include it.

Where did you pick one up please?

Thank you all. Following up: how is best to ensure insulation stays in place during construction? Will use Rockwool RW3 60kg/m3 insulation, in 100mm/50mm/25mm depths as required. 600mm wide, 1.2m long. This is cut into 240mm/240mm/120mm strips, 1.2m long. This will nicely fit the 220mm void. (doubled up when using 120mm width strips, obviously) Shall I simply apply wood glue to the inside of the I Beam, then lay the cut Rockwool strips - and wait for it to stick?

No. Fortunately. We had always planned to finish with resin or micro cement ~3mm layer. What's your finish?