Duncan62

I agree with the article while heartedly. If I could have sourced UC3 timber, is have used it. However, issues: Firstly, suppliers (at least near me) have NO IDEA about different class ratings for timber treatment - they will all say "yes yes it's pressure treated" which means nothing, it's definitely UC2. Secondly, practically speaking as a novice self builder trying to do it properly, I couldn't not find a single supplier for 2x2 UC3 near me. What I cold find was the other side of the country and 4x the cost. I agree, fencing batten not any good for a building. So practically won. I got standard UC2. Barn painted it black and then, when fitted, went round with DPM paint and painted the top surface to guard against standing water as best I could. We are nearly 18 months in and (as you would expect) so far so good. If there are to be any issues, they will be after 10+ years is my guess. Fingers crossed I've done enough for it to last as long as the thermowood.

Heat pump cylinder

This is exactly my set up. The extra valve is only on the DHW return to act as a safety cutout. Is it enough to have the diverter only?

Live is fed to the immersion heater via the thermal cut out. This is where the valve can pick up it's power (?) is my guess.

Booster heater and thermistor installed. It's just the cut off valve for the over temp that needs attention. I think I need to connect the valve to the tank thermal cut out - with the BROWN wire connected in position 2 and GREY/BLUE/GREEN wired up to live. Unsure on the ORANGE wire.

ev-ehs-r-290-mono-pjt-ubs-s.pdf

Anyone installed a Gen 7 Samsung A2W heat pump and found out where to connect the DHW safety shut off valve please? ehs-r290-installation-guide.pdf

I've been using 3C for my build. First timer. Seen fine to me, but I know no different. Easy to book online and generally can come within a couple of days. Not had any snags from our BC, but have had 1 from the warranty provider (incorrect tape used), so between them they'll keep you straight.

I think this may be my issue, I knew not to offer tighten, so maybe didn't do it enough. I only have normal spanners so don't think I could have overtightened as wasn't forcing anything... I'll open one up and look at the pipe, hopefully it doesn't look like a fat finger on a ring! Been advised to add some paste to the olives before tightening to help with the leaks.

So, filled with water. Lots of leaks.... Which was unexpected. Going round tightening everything again.

I'll check the heat pump thank you. Airless trap because I had already bought it but for airtightness test it's useless for the pressurisation test as it blows straight open, so added a u bend too.

Thank you all, uninsulated until I get it up and running in case of any leaks, but system installed and closed loop. Next challenge is flushing the UFH loops (only 3x100m) and filling the system from the now connected fill hose under the expansion vessel. Also need to add the biocide and anti-corrosion. Wish me luck.

Thank you so much. I've got outdoor lagging and will do as you do!

Thinking about it, should the Freezer valves be sited at the lowest point before the heat pump, or will anywhere outside do it?

Magic thanks.. ordered some freeze valves. Q4: Is it standard practice to put BOTH inhibitors and biocides in the UFH loop?