Duncan62

Appreciate that. And I agree. Finding it in non fencing sizes is not easy however. Also about 4x the cost. Pragmatism won out. UC2 used. End grain sealer on cut ends. DPM paint on top of the horizontal surfaces.

Literally having this issue now! I think counter battens should end early. So the drip tray can sit on the roof deck with a slight kick to the eaves board. The membrane sits on top of the tray. The vent sits on top of the membrane to allow air into the cavity behind the tiles, exciting at the ridge vents (and take moisture away from the building) The tiles then sit on top of the vent strips.

@ToughButterCup @the_r_sole @Gary M @markocosic @Dave Jones @joe90 what did you guys use for the battens please?

Help please! I have spec'd open face cladding - what USE CLASS specification should the batten and cross battens be? I am concerned I require UC3 treated wood (pressure treated to push preservative into the wood), and not UC2 which is easily available (green treated timber that is dipped, not pressure treated. i.e. roofing battens). Because open cladding means the battens will be subject to constant moisture - I think UC3 should be spec'd? Correct? Further info: https://www.jamesjones.co.uk/assets/uploads/files/treatment/tanalith-e-suppliers-guide.pdf Then we can get into actually finding this UC3 wood in sized like 25x50mm, 50x50mm or 50x100mm, I cant find it anywhere.

Have you looked at Norrsken?

Your Battens and counter battens - did you use UC2 treated or UC3 treated please?

That should be membrane. Yes certified: Rothoblaas Transpair Evo 160. I did the drawings. Roofer said single membrane. Will add butyl tape under each counter batten too. Belt and braces. Hopefully this sounds sensible?

Or very good carpenters are saying I should have 2 methane layers on the roof. First as a house wrap. Second draping between a counter batten, before the battens and tiles installed. Build up is: Insulation filled rafters External 60mm wood fibre insulation House wrap membrane Counter batten *Secondary membrane layer* Batten Tiles. Is this standard practice on a warm fit design? My thinking was a single membrane layer against the wood fibre?

Screws at 45 Deg will be behind the external closing so will not see them. Screws at 45 Deg take the weight of the woodfibre from sagging/bending the horizontal fasteners. I could change the 45deg ss flat head screw to a ss normal counter sink head instead.

Having searched - Fastener Types will be: GREEN 8.0 x 140mm T40 Spax Extra Long Washer Head Wood Screw, Stainless Steel RED / BLACK 8.0 x 180mm T40 Spax Extra Long Washer Head Wood Screw, Stainless Steel A2

V2

Studs are 88mm wide. We have all the dims for stud location - so hoping that is sufficient to find them!

Hello all, my SE has washed their hands of the woodfibre and cladding fixing details. So I've come up with some myself, and would like a critique - or explain what you did for a similar build please? Reading around, it looks like 45 degree fixings help to ensure there isn't any "sag" in the woodfibre/cladding due to the weight? Stainless steel Screws for corrosion resistance? Buildup: 300mm IBEAM (on 600mm centers) 18mm OSB 60mm Woodfibre House Wrap/membrane 25x50mm vertical batten 45x45mm horizontal batten Vertical thermowood cladding Prelim Woodfibre Fixing Schedule: Advice greatly appreciated!

The comfowell looks like a good solution, can't believe I've not come across it sooner! Thanks

Above advice is laudable. However I know I'm v sensitive to this so so be installing a large carbon filter on the intake to the mvhr. https://www.growell.co.uk/products/mammoth-carbon-filters?variant=44069990924532 Something like this, with pre filter on the outside. Nice and large to give minimal pressure drop.