bmj1

I want you to run my next project. Well done!

We used eclisse pocket doors from portman for 4 openings. They are fabulous. But, complicated, and our builder's carpenter managed to build them all wrong. We brought in a new carpenter who was mostly able to sort it. If doing it, take your time and ensure you get it right.

This looks like another option 'natural sand' finish: https://nccstreetscape.co.uk/Shop/product/gftk-vdw-850-paving-joint-mortar/?attribute_colour=Natural+Sand&attribute_size=25+kg

https://thepavingexperts.co.uk/product/ultrascape-premjoint-brush-in-jointing-compound/ This looks like the ticket, a couple of colours that could work "pebble grey" and "natural cashmere" I really would like a lighter colour that would work for a driveway - but not sure it exists..

Hi all, I'm looking for a grout I can use for a small section of my driveway (for between cobblestone setts). It needs to be strong enough for cars to drive one. I'm looking for something light coloured. The 'buff' colour from Projoint Titan is too dark and yellow, I'm looking for something much lighter/whiter. Any suggestions ? Thank you in advance 🙏

I don't see a significant reason why you can't build foundations for both options while you progress the planning by fast track, given that the foundations can easily be made invisible. That will obviously cost you, but keeps both options open. Get onto a local and recommended planning consultant and they will be able to advise you on how quickly you can get a planning sorted, it might be quicker than you think.

This is pretty standard. If you haven't retained the Architect through Stages 5 + 6, and he hasn't supervised the build, then you can't expect him to sign a document and put his PII on the line.

Buildup: London Clay Membrane 200mm type 3 80mm permeable tarmac 20mm permeable resin bound gravel Do I want/need a membrane between the type 3 and the tarmac to stop the tarmac pouring through the holes of the type 3? Or is tarmac thick enough that this isn't an issue ?

I've built a water feature with a concrete block wall that is tanked with paint on tanking. The wall is wet for extended periods and algae is growing.. What's the right solution to mitigate the growth if algae ? Is there something I can paint on?

Is the reason for choosing steico because you need it to be vapour permeable ? If so - then PIR underneath will defeat this element. If the overall buildup does not need to be vapour permeable, then it's fine to have a mixture of impermeable (like PIR) and permeable, as long as the vapour permeable is on the outer layer (doing it the other way around risks interstitial condensation).

I don't understand why your architect is making this complicated. The standard approach is PIR boards cut to fit with any gaps foamed and joints taped, then plasterboard. Keep it simple! Multifoil is very controversial in the industry and so I would probably steer clear of it.

Does it need to be brick ? Could you build with concrete and render with silicon render each house in a different pastel colour ?

Just to add, no way you sub-contract the architect via a builder. That's a big no no

I don't trust any builders. Ultimately they work for themselves. You need your architect or PM to hold them to account. I've seen first hand the problems when the architect and builder get too cozy, essentially, it's a gamekeeper and poacher scenario. Hire the architect and design team, then a QS to build a BOQ, and run a competitive tender to 3/4 good builders to find your builder. You don't have to go with the cheapest, but you need to run the process. Unless you are skipping the main contractor altogether and running it yourself (as many on here do).

If you think you can definitely get it done cheaper then take a 4k cash settlement and spend it like you please. If you don't, tell them to organise to fix it, and then there is no cash payout.