dave1967
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Everything posted by dave1967
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Thanks Nick. Builder thinks we need to put some footings in .
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Just after info re this issue. We are bringing out our front door and was wondering the best way to do it. Entrance is 2m across and 7 brick up and we will be having steps down. Had a quote from builder but it looks a straightforward job that wont be on show. The concrete base approx 6 inches and instead of digging out would building of a lintel be better. The door wont be supporting anything.
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Just after info re this issue. We are bringing out our front door and was wondering the best way to do it. Entrance is 2m across and 7 brick up and we will be having steps down. Had a quote from builder but it looks a straightforward job that wont be on show. The concrete base approx 6 inches and instead of digging out would building of a lintel be better. The door wont be supporting anything.
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Ok. They said there is another light roiund the back of the house thats off the same switch now so it probably something gone wrong with that one. I will tell them to get someone in as it all looks a diy job.
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They said previous light did work then it packed in.
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Yes. Just brought the light to my house and wired it up inside and it works perfect. Checked the terminals and live light screwdriver. Neutral doesn't. At the other house both live and neutral lite screwdriver. Confused.
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That the issue . its dead. Ive been told i could have a live and switched live to it instead of neutral and thats why it wont work. Makes no sense to me.
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https://searchlightelectric.com/en-gb/searchlight-products/outdoor/outdoor-wall/maine-outdoor-wall-light-black-metal-1-clear-glass-280bk--pir
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I can do but its just earth to earth . red to live and black to neutral. May be a dud light.
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Nothing tripped. Im trying to find out if switched live to neutral on the light is a thing or not.
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Its not working. Ive been told older lights can work with live. To live and switched live to neutral but new lights wont work this way and need a neutral. Is this rubbish?
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Its just a choc block connector l n and earth
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Just doing what i thought was a simple job for family member. Replaced a screwfix dunham light with pir with a new maine pir light. Connected it up the same . (black to neutral and red to live and the earth) didn't work. Being now told that the new light needs neutral, live and earth and it may have live and switched live as its off a switch. Could this be right?
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GOVERNMENT LOOKING TO RETROSPECTIVELY CHANGE FIT TARIFFS
dave1967 replied to dave1967's topic in Photovoltaics (PV)
Thats it. Yes. -
GOVERNMENT LOOKING TO RETROSPECTIVELY CHANGE FIT TARIFFS
dave1967 replied to dave1967's topic in Photovoltaics (PV)
Cant see anything -
2nd post is most accurate.
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Was that fitted
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The council runs a scheme where they put everyones requirements to multiple companies. This was the cheapest.
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When i take away the car usage we use around 60 to 70kw a week. Does this sound about right for 4bed family of 4 with Gas heating but electric oven/hob
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When i take away the car usage we use around 40 to 50kw a week. Does this sound about right for 4bed family of 4 with Gas heating but electric oven/hob
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Ok. We are getting a new dryer next week. I didn't realise it is used for about 12 to 15hrs a week.
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Hi Would any of you have thoughts on me adding a battery to my system. We are on 2011 tariff with a 2.4kw system. It is currently earning around £1600 a year. We have an electric car which we charge overnight on octopus go @ 9p/kw. Average 60kw a week. We still end up with a bill of on average of £140 a month. Tumble dryer is the biggest user which we a swapping for a heat pump version. I have got a quote of £2995 to add a 5.2kw battery. Overall we roughly break even so its not too bad but can we do better. Would it be worth it and roughly what would be the payback. Any help appreciated.
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Hi mate. It is vented to atmos via the stack on our other bathroom they both go to the same chamber.
