Danv

I would like to hang an infrared heater from the centre of this roof, with screws going across two of the beams. My structure is as follows: 150 x 47mm beams at 3.6m long. Beams sit on the walls spanning 3 meters across. The span between beams is 600mm. Cold Roof consists of: Insulation between the beams 22mm chipboard on top EDPM on top of that Underneath includes 12mm plasterboard. Plaster Skim underneath the plasterboard. My options are below, but I can't work out what load the rood can actually take. Can anyone cleverer than myself help advise me here? 850mm long @ 8.5kg 1200mm long @ 11.5kg 1550cm long @ 18kg I basically want to avoid the roof collapsing in on itself in the next 5 years! Thanks in advance.

Thank you @Mr Punter, I may take your advice here. It's outside and under 2.5m so no planning required.

Sorry not sure what you mean @SteamyTea The door was second hand and only £25... so I am tempted to take a chunk off the top and bottom. I may still need to take some out elsewhere, my gut is saying taking off the top bar as that is easier, but please any thoughts if i had to take some of the wood out are very much welcomed!

Thanks @PeterW! The door is uPVC, I hadn't considered that! Is that possible on a uPVC? I also realise I didn't explain how much i needed in total to take off.... I need to accommodate about 50mm!

So I'm in the 'final' stages of a suspended timber outbuilding that I plan on insulating and having double glazed window + door. However I realised I built without room to accommodate a sill. My measurement was 5mm off aswell, so sill or no sill it needs tweaking! I basically need to adapt what I have and am not sure on what the best location to 'chop it' off is. Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated. I would obviously like to impact the frame/structure/stability as little as possible! I see my 2 options are either removing the top door frame beam and have the door sitting directly to the frame header beam (plus then taking a few mm from the bottom). Or taking all the excess out from the bottom frame. Open to any ideas here! I should add that the base has c24 150x47 (x2) for extra support:

Thanks Nick for the really informative response! Lots to digest here :). I'll certainly double up on that OSB floor then, I didn't realise it was too little. I'll have a think about that unit, only concern is it's a little ugly on the back. But cost benefits will probably outweigh that concern. Normal electric wall heater was my back up option, just liked the idea of UFH. Level of insulation on walls is 50mm & Roof 50mm.

I am in the process of building a timber building in the garden and am looking into electric UFH instead of an electric heater. For context, the building is a suspended timber frame on 16 individual concrete blocks. I currently have 100mm Celotex insulation between joists and have placed 11mm OSB3 on top to give me my flat floor. I then plan to use laminate flooring on top. What are my best options here… 1 - do/can I lift up the OSB and place the UFH directly on the celotex insulation and screed over? 2 - do I install on top of the OSB and then screed? 3 - do I need to add another insulation board on top of the OSB and then the UFH with screed? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Regards, Dan

Thanks @PeterW, I’m using 6x2’s and like the sound of this, any less holes to dig and fill the better! Are you able to inform me what you mean by a ‘ring beam’? thanks @Temp aiming for joists of 6x2. Do you have a link to a span table I could reference? thanks in advance!

Thank you for all your input! @Thorfun The benefit of having less is to lower the amount of manual effort and time it will take for the additional amount - which i was trying to reduce. I do like the thoght for the future though, especially if we sell the house etc. @scottishjohn The plan for each block is to dig down 30-40cm, fill with rock/stone and then top with sand and then add the block on top, probably in stacks of 2 blocks (cemented), depending on leveling. I should also add that the option with 32 did have joists at 600mm, which on the lesser blocked version i reduced to 400mm centres. Looks like I will need to continue looking at the 32, however if anyone things I can get away with less without risking the foundation - please do shout!

I am in the process of final bits of design on my self build garden office. However I have hit a conundrum and can’t seem to find any advice online as to how many concrete blocks plinths I need for my foundations. The building is to be made from timber as you will see below. How many concrete block plinths to support the base? and how far should each be spaced from each other? My building is: 4211mm x 3188mm These are the two options I was playing with. One with more blocks is what I had before watching a few videos and the one on the right is what I'm now thinking... if it'll hold up! It's just for an office / play room so doesn't need to house extremely heavy equipment. Any advice is greatly appreciated!!