rhymecheat

Does anyone know who exactly I need to contact for this matter? I tried a chartered surveyor but was told this was not a matter for him. Also tried the council but they seemed to only deal with planning applications. am a bit lost here on how to proceed…

Hi there. Thanks for the detailed answer. I’ve got a couple of questions if you don’t mind: 1. The system in question is a Bohle VetroMount. From their installation they seem to mention concrete screws. Does this mean the substrate needs to be concrete? 2. The installer told me I have a 10 year guarantee from the manufacturer. But if the system is not installed to manufacturer recommendations, isn’t this guarantee void? 3. The installer says on its website that it is CERTASS certified. Would I be able to file a complaint with them if all else fails?

Don’t know about alternative plans yet. It’s all too fresh and atm I’m really just focused on getting my money back, especially since this business is yet to give me an invoice for this work despite me asking.

So… spoke to the manufacturer and sent them the video. Long story short they’re really not happy about the way this was installed. When the fitter first came over to measure he should have refused to install on brick or should have given an alternative. they’ve taken the business name and are going to reach out to them directly to resolve this. i feel like there’s no easy way to resolve and I should have just been told from the quote phase that this railing system wouldn’t work without a concrete base. So now it looks like the solution is to remove the whole thing and give me my money back… then I’ll have to redo the brick that’s been drilled into and do a different installation instead

I already had to pay deposit (half the total) on ordering and then had to pay the full balance on completion without noticing the wobble. Even though I’ve paid the company they haven’t yet given me an invoice which makes me feel nervous about chasing them as they could potentially claim something else. I believe it’s just over 700mm. When the installer first came to measure he never mentioned that Building Control needed to inspect it…

Does anyone know who I need to contact to come over and have a look at it to give me a professional assessment so I can go the installer with something better than just my opinion?

Thank you all for the comments thus far. I’ve done some investigating and found out the specific system being used here. It’s a Bohle VetroMount. from YouTube clips and it looks like these don’t wobble at all! Im pretty convinced the channel isn’t properly installed and am looking to file a complaint with the installer in the morning. I’ve also contacted the manufacturer for confirmation that this is not the intended result. the only thing I could think of here is that while the manufacturer supplies screws for concrete, my balustrade is bolted to a solid brick patio…

Hi all, hoping someone around here would have an informed opinion if this is normal or not. I’ve had a frameless (no handrail, floor mounted with a channel system) glass balustrade installed last month. It looks good and all but I find that it wobbles too much on contact. The wobbling doesn’t seem to be from the glass against the channel but instead the whole channel giving in to the point that I don’t feel comfortable leaning on it at all. I’ve attached a video to exemplify how much it wobbles 68583016217__39C4AD84-9BA7-4B6F-A132-B5FB5D1F2721.MOV . As you can see the glass seems fixed to the channel, but the whole channel rocks back and forth. This is happening with minimal effort. When I questioned the installer I was told this had to be like this as if there was no give the glass could smash. I get that, but I also feel like the five should come from the glass against the channel, not from the whole channel moving back and forth. Anyone have any experience with this type of system that could tell me if the installer is correct or is this a bad installation? thanks in advance

Ah that’s a good shout! I’m gonna look into that! Thanks

I see. Okay I’m gonna try that. It’ll probably take a while to find the right time to come on for a comfortable temperature by the time I come down. by the way, speaking of pumps: My UFH manifold has a Grundfos with 3 speeds plus a setting for constant pressure instead. Should it be set to constant pressure or constant speed?

I see. But what if I also experience this when the flow to the rads is closed and only the downstairs UFH is on? Does that discard the rads pipes or should I still check that?

Yes, there are rads upstairs. Last night I turner the rads thermostat off and the noise was still there so we can probably discard that. I’ve also had the pump running with the compressor off (I believe this is what you’re suggesting) and the noise is still there with the same intensity which indicates it’s probably the pump. It’s rather annoying because I can barely identify the hum during the day to the point that I don’t know if it only happens at night now…

Hi all. I’ve got a split Altherma 3 H HT and the indoor unit is wall mounted in the loft. The loft is insulated but not boarder, apart from the base built specifically for this installation. I’ve attached a picture of the setup up there for clarity. I’ve noticed that if I leave the heating on overnight (at about 35/40C) I hear a constant humming on the top floor that is rather irritating during the night as there are no other competing noises. I’ve measured this noise to about 26dbA at ear level when lying in bed. The hum seems to come from the indoor units pump. It has a configurable pump speed which I’ve already set to the minimum (60%) but it’s still rather loud. Interestingly I would expect the hum to be stronger on the rooms directly below the unit but that’s not true. The room directly below the unit is actually quiet (as is the room that’s further away from the unit, but that one makes sense). It’s the other rooms that seem to have it worse. Again, attached a drawing of the layout for better understanding (green for ground level, black for first floor and red for loft) my questions: 1. Is this Normal and I should just turn the thing off when I want to sleep? 2. How can I reduce this noise further? 3. Why is it not the loudest directly below it? Thank you very much in advance

Ah, however the manifold gauge shows the same temperature I set on the heatpump. And it’s showing a return of about 7C below that so I think it’s looking good in there. Behold… temperatures in there are as expected with a nice delta between leaving and return temperature. Now I’m thinking what I see in that inlet sensor is coming from the buffer tank instead. So today things took a bit of a turn. I turned everything to the max yesterday before bed and let it rip: pump at 55C, unrestricted speed, UFH manifold mixing valve at 55C too and opened all the flow gauges. Temperature downstairs in the morning was 19C which is a tremendous improvement. What surprises me the most though was the consumption: 2/3kwh every hour. The smart meter notes about 10min of pump off followed by about 12min of pump on at about 1kwh (which I’m guessing is topping up the buffer tank). The UFH manifold then showed a delta of less than 3 which indicated to me that I had the flow too fast so I adjusted the zones little by little throughout the day until I got a consistent 7C delta. Ultimately I think I’ll order those self balancing actuators for this. Usage seems stable and the downstairs has been at at constant 19.5C the whole day. good results but I’m still not sure what’s happened. I wonder if I had to do the work of heating the house first.

The second one. Outdoor unit connects to the indoor one which connects to the buffer tank. Then a Grundfos pump (set at speed 3) pumps from that tank to the UFH/rads

Ordered one to have a go

Oh I see! Thanks, I’ll look into them

If the actuator controls the flow, what does the actual flow gauge do? I’m referring to those glass things with the indicator that you can adjust by rotating it

Interesting… Can I replace thermostat activated actuators with those? What’s happens when the thermostat calls for heat? Are they just constantly on instead? Also, what does the actuator actually do? I thought it just opened/closed the flow of water and the glass gauge controlled the actual flow to that pipe

I see! So let’s say I start increasing the flow. At what stage does it not need increasing anymore? Or should I just crank it up and leave it until the room is warm?

I thought the lower the return the more heat was being kept in the room. You’re saying if I increase the flow for the living room zone it should be warmer? edit: yes. Atm the UFH has been on all night and probably will all day

I’m not sure unfortunately. They’re from a local company. Owner lives a few doors down the road

Yes of course. But I’ll have to do that later today as I really don’t wanna open the bifolds/loft in this cold. Meanwhile, do you think those low temps under the bifolds are normal?

So, downstairs is currently 17.5C with 0C outside. UFH manifold is receiving 42C and returning about 30C. I’ve used the thermal camera once more and I think I see some clearer issues here. I’ve attached some pics these are under new bifold doors. I don’t really know why only the bottom is this cold Same camera is telling me the rest of the floor space is at about 22C for reference

No I don’t think so as the running time for the backup heater is 2h vs about 800h for the pump