thefoxesmaltings

That's helpful. Will definately take a read, thank you.

Ah, confusion of wording I think. About to 'pull the trigger', as in I am about to buy this ASHP for a new build and asking for experience on the particular model.

About to pull the trigger on this ASHP. From what I can see, it's about 1 year old and has some pretty good efficiency stats. Wanted to ask if anyone has direct experience with this unit? Are you happy with the performance (particularly in this colder weather!) or wishing you had gone for a different unit? Also it's not clear if it uses an inverter driven compressor. i.e. so that it can run at variable speeds and not just 'off' and 'on'. Daikin state "Hermetically sealed swing compressor".

Nick, this looks great. Stupid question - but how and where do you fix the screws for the counter horizontal service battens? Do they just go through the membrane?

Yeah, it doesn't seem too 'taught' and they haven't taped up the edges (yet) I'm guessing. It was a in-progress build we went to have a look at.

I'm not too sure. It's not my build, but an 'in-progress' one we went round to have a look at - just a photo I took whilst there.

I get that, but in the example photo above the electrician has fixed the socket back box straight through the VCL - how else would you fix that to the structure securely, given the scenario?

Following the typical makeup of a high spec/efficient timber frame building. The item in discussion is point no.7 - The Reflective Vapour Control Layer. Timber Frame Construction (Outside In) Brickwork Cavity Reflective Thermo Breather Membrane OSB Sheathing Timber Frame with 120mm Insulation Additional PIR Insulation (25-100mm) Reflective Vapour Control Layer 25mm Service void with Battens Plasterboard Is putting the Reflective VCL, (which is also designed to act as an airtight barrier) on the 'warm side' of the insulation, a counter intuitive idea? Surely, trades are just going to poke loads of holes through it for first & second fix, thus reducing the efficiency of the VCL and the air tightness? How would one even go about sealing this... Would it make sense to instead, place the Reflective VCL on the 'cold side' of the insulation, as the additional layer of shiny foil PIR (point no.6) would effectively become the VCL? Example where electrician has installed back box and fixed it through the Reflective VCL, effectively compromising the airtight membrane.

Generally, is Glulam Douglas Fir stronger than Solid beam Douglas Fir (non Glulam)?

Thanks Simon, have emailed them.

Appreciate the info. Having a bare steel (painted or not) pergola is a bit of a non starter for us. As you said it will look nothing like wood, and far too industrial. I think perhaps as @markcsuggested Glulam is the way to go.

This is going to sound stupid of me asking. What do you mean by box section steel? So basically it would be a steel pergola?

Any issues with longevity of using glulam?

As part of our design we intend to have a large 30 metre pergola adjoining the house. It has fairly chunky sized posts and sections. Approx 20x20. (Attached photo) Having originally envisioned this in Oak, we've now been notified of some potential concerns of using Oak, for a pergola of this size: It will shrink and twist over time, and given the large section sizes, shrinkage could be quite significant. It will suffer from splits and cracks (‘shakes’), the extent of which will vary across the structure in terms of intensity and width/depth. Engineering may require steel plates to hold connections together (as opposed to traditional joints); if this is the case it becomes even more expensive because they would need to be stainless steel (chemicals that naturally occur within the oak would corrode and eat away at mild steel) It will stain any paving that’s underneath for a period of time (1-3 years) after rain due to the tannins leeching out of wet oak. It’ll disappear eventually, and it can be removed using oxalic acid – but just annoying. Advice has been given to explore the possibility of using Glulam for the pergola instead. Yes we're aware that it will need to be treated every year with a UV protection/clear varnish, but we'd probably do this for the Oak anyway. Anyone here with experience of using Glulam outdoors, in an uncovered area exposed to elements 24/7?

Ecology also said 'no', based on the aforementioned condition.

Haha, we already have rainwater harvesting proposed to be installed as part of the approval, yet still had this condition imposed. Do you think it might be worth trying another broker? Currently using Mayflower who I was recommended to as they are self-build mortgage specialists.

So you also had this condition and were able to get funding from lenders on a self-build mortgage?

Anyone had this issue from lenders being generally unhappy and unwilling to lend based on the following condition? This is in our planning permission: "Condition 9 - The development hereby permitted shall be constructed to Building Regulation Part G(2)(b) standards limiting water consumption to 110 litres per person per day. Reason: To reduce demand for finite resources as the district is in a water scarce area. This condition is imposed in accordance with Policy SP10 of the Local Plan." Lenders and valuers alike are concerned about the implications of the above condition under the principle that it affects the saleability of the property, and therefore negatively affects it's value and security.

How did you get on with English Bros?

For those who have recently taken out a self build mortgage, what are the typical interest rates that you're seeing from lenders? I appreciate everyone's circumstance and finances can vary, but I would hope to see some sort of common theme when it comes to the interest rates. Thanks.

Stiebel is about £900 more, so not much in it. From what I can gather from official websites, LG warranty is 7 years and Stiebel is 5 years.

I also found it incredibly annoying to find any decent level of technical spec from Stiebel. After cross checking multiple sources and datasheets, I did manage to find their technical info, but it still wasn't as comprehensive as LG's With regards to LG sound power level, see graphic from the latest datasheet from the LG website:

Potentially considering a heat pump company whom only install LG and Stiebel heatpumps. Apparently they are some of the best and the companies themselves offer really good install support, training etc. Although visually ugly, I am leaning towards the LG Therma V R32 Monobloc (16kw) as it seems it has a better SCOP of 4.45, and can perform to -25c. Whereas the Stiebel has a SCOP of 4.39 and can perform only to -20. I figure the time you need a heatpump most is when it's freezing cold outside, so it would make sense to accomodate a worst case external temperature scenario, especially with the way our winters are heading. The sound power level for both is 55dBA, which seems quite loud compared to other heat pumps, but not sure what choice I have here. If anyone has a LG Therma V R32 installed: How loud/noticeable do you find it, any complaints from nearby neighbours? What's the overall performance like, any issues? Favourite and worst thing about it? Would you recommend it? Additionally, if there are other things I should be considering, would be happy to hear any heatpump advice.

How do you find the LG Therma V in terms of noise, Paul?

Aside from Heb Homes, most TF companies make the timber frame themselves in house. It's more unusual to find companies outsourcing it, I've found.