Dillsue

Maybe Im unique in the world as we removed a wall together with 2.5metres of kitchen units. If we'd followed the mantra of only piping open spaces, we'd have a big cold patch where the old units were.

And when you remodel the room so the areas you left unheated are now exposed and the areas with heating are now covered??

Correct that is a plinth heater but nothing to stop you installing a plinth fan to draw trapped UFH heated air from under kitchen cabinets which you seemed to suggest couldn't/shouldn't be done??

Aren't those examples of flexibility rather than redundancy?? Redundancy would necessitate doubling up on loops so if one failed the other can provide the full heating load, in my understanding of redundancy. You'd need to install twice as many loops and twice as much pipe if you wanted full redundancy.

Maybe not in your world:)

Yes, Yes and No! We did a large kitchen/diner with 100mm+ slab and pipe at 150mm centres, I think....it was 20+ years ago. We did the whole floor wall to wall so heated under cabinets and a partition wall. It's been great to have warm tiles:) If there was concern over loss of heat output from the areas under cabinets you could put a fan in the plinth to draw out the warmed air??

Assuming the walkin shower is tiled then put in an electric UFH mat. You can get a former for the shower area to give a fall to the drain, electric mat over the whole floor then tile over the mat. If you're getting batteries anyway and your solar is MCS accredited so you can get paid for PV export, then best £ROI solution that I can see is export everything you can @15p/unit and run the house off the batteries for much of the time charged @8p/unit on a TOU tariff. You'd need to work your own figures but my estimates suggest that's worth a few bob and worth recabling my PV so it's the first connection to the DNOs incoming supply so our new batteries can power the house while the PV runs to the grid

Me to with an older section of the house having 8mm micropore drops down the walls to the rads. Set on the slowest speed it pulls a steady indicated 10 watts. An easy way to retrofit a HP to small bore pipework:)

Exactly this. Max flow temp we've seen is 34 degrees through the cold days we've had and the living areas been at a steady 21 degrees since early november

To keep hot water available switch the immersion on and leave it on. It may not heat the whole cylinder but should give you enough for a single shower. Wait half an hour between showers and you'll all get one. Borrow a couple if electric fan heaters and use those to heat the house while the heat pump is off. For the heat pump fault if youve already cleaned and replaced the blocked strainer and repressurised the system, switch the power off using the switch by the pump and leave it off for a couple of minutes. Switch the power back on and see how things are.

Get the rads sorted out. If you turn up the flow temp you'll be paying extra for the life of the house. A reshuffle of the rads you've got and one or 2 new ones will sort the heating for the life of the house. If the rads you've got now aren't heating the upstairs enough then go back to basics with a check on room heat loss calcs and that the correct correction factors were used to size the rads for the design flow temp you want. Something has gone wrong if your rooms aren't getting up to temp and your really want to find out why

Fogstar have a list of inverters that are compatible with their battery kits so probably best to stick to one they know will work. Install from scratch is probably the best part of a day. With the kits you need to balance charge the cells which would take a bit of time to assemble and disassemble. Charging may take a few hours or maybe days. This is all on their Web site. For install you got the following to do- Batteries need assembling into the pack enclosure Battery pack DC cabling needs connecting to the inverter together with a Canbus comms cable Mount inverter and connect up AC connection to consumer unit Connect up solar if its a hybrid inverter Install meter/CT by service meter and connect up supply to the meter Run comms cable between inverter and meter If you're going for an inverter with a backup output for when the grid goes down you've got to install another consumer unit and move the backed up circuits over to the backup CU. Then run a supply cable between the inverter and the new CU. Could be best part of a day just for the backup CU!

Don't spend too much time recrunching as summers only just round the corner and PV£ will be slipping through your fingers😁

If the cable was correctly sized to carry 7 kw from the house to the garage for the charger then it will be large enough to carry up to 7kw in the other direction ie from the battery inverter to the house. FIT rules changed a few years ago and you can chop and change a system like adding batteries and probably change the inverter for a hybrid if that suited you better

This https://www.fogstar.co.uk/collections/solar-battery-storage/products/seplos-v4-kit-and-x16-highstar-314ah-bundle