Dillsue

A single <800w plug in solar is going to put around 3 amps into the circuit which the circuits MCB/fuse wont see. I dont know what the max a typical ring is rated for but I'd be certain there's enough difference between the max capacity and a typical 32amp MCB for the cable to safely absorb the 3 amps. I don't see why your spark was fretting about a single plug in solar and an adjacent load? Obviously if you're buying cheap stuff from non EU suppliers then you take on board the risk of using potentially unregulated stuff.....but that's as we are now with a whole load of dodgy imported stuff. Don't know where the granny charger that scorched a socket came from but the few weeks we used ours before a proper charger went in, and there weren't any problems. The plug was warm after a few hours but nowhere near damaging anything. Was the one your referring to a cheap import?

?? Maybe I'm missing something but a faulty anything is limited to 13amp by the fuse in the plug which is way less than 2.5mm cable can carry. Any adjacent plug in solar is only offsetting what that faulty load would draw from the consumer unit but is again limited to 13amp by its plug? If plug in solar is limited to 800watt then it's hard to see a problem?? Unless....... If you plugged in multiple plug in solar units then you could have a problem if you also plug in multiple high loads, that's where the regulators might have a problem but thats the same problem Europe will already be dealing with??

Unless you want to join one of the export payment schemes AFAIK there's currently no requirement for MCS certification or testing for anything....products or installations??

The neutral needs to pass through an RCD/RCBO to monitor for earth leakage if there's an imbalance in current in the live and neutral. You don't have to break the neutral to do the monitoring although I think you can get double pole RCBOs in a single module width.

Not sure I'd want to hold the ac connection on any inverter with panels connected. I beleive the grid disconnect is via relays/contactors and I know the contacts do weld from time to time.

SEG is gov regulated so needs to be MCS installed. You'd need to notify your SEG payer if adding capacity. If you're on a Power Purchase Agreement such as Octopus Outgoing then that's between you and Octopus:) Be interesting to see how the likes of Octopus handle export from plug in solar??

From the government's Web site https://www.gov.uk/government/news/government-to-make-plug-in-solar-available-within-months "The government will work with the Energy Networks Association, DNOs and Ofgem to update the G98 distribution code and wiring regulations BS 7671 to allow UK households to connect <800W plug-in solar panels to domestic mains sockets, without the need for an electrician and with tailored safety standards" Not sure that will get sorted in time for IKEA to be flogging plug in units anytime soon??

If your house is connected to the grid and you plug a solar inverter into the house then the solar inverter is connected to the grid and will export anything the house doesn't use to the grid. There's a lower wattage limit of <800w where all of G98 requirements dont apply but likely any plug in generator would need to meet most of the G98 requirements. I'm not sure there's anything to stop you using plug in solar right now if it meets the grid standards. If the government are thinking of changing the rules on connecting small scale solar outside the current G98 rules then they'll likely need the buy in of the ENA/DNOs with changes to specs etc. Can't see that happening anytime soon??

Here's a roofing batten version. Old hollow concrete blocks set in the ground keep it all on the floor and have done for 3 winters so seem OK. Under £100 for batten, panel clamps and stainless screws.......already had the blocks, DPM and fencing wire for diagonal bracing

If you read the report that @DamonHD posted, and other sources, household batteries should be pretty near the bottom of the list of domestic risks to worry about and spend £££s mitigating.

That's likely to ammount to more than just a "few £" for what was shown to be a very low risk upthread. Would you do that for a tumble dryer or any other appliance, or a garaged ICE car all of which seem to pose a greater fire risk than a modern battery pack??

Reminds me of peeing around with fireworks as a kid and getting chased by ripraps, helicopters and aeroplanes!

Highlights suggest a very low risk from home battery systems so probably not something to be too concerned about but do your own risk assessment

AFAIK everything to do with battery location and fire protection are all recommendations and there's nothing mandatory. One thing you want to understand is if your insurer stipulates anything??

Might be easiest to suck it and see by bypassing the accumulator with the flow pipe and replacing the scondary pump with a straight section of pipe. Avoid sharp bends/elbows in the accumulator bypass!