Dillsue

If you read the report that @DamonHD posted, and other sources, household batteries should be pretty near the bottom of the list of domestic risks to worry about and spend £££s mitigating.

That's likely to ammount to more than just a "few £" for what was shown to be a very low risk upthread. Would you do that for a tumble dryer or any other appliance, or a garaged ICE car all of which seem to pose a greater fire risk than a modern battery pack??

Reminds me of peeing around with fireworks as a kid and getting chased by ripraps, helicopters and aeroplanes!

Highlights suggest a very low risk from home battery systems so probably not something to be too concerned about but do your own risk assessment

AFAIK everything to do with battery location and fire protection are all recommendations and there's nothing mandatory. One thing you want to understand is if your insurer stipulates anything??

Might be easiest to suck it and see by bypassing the accumulator with the flow pipe and replacing the scondary pump with a straight section of pipe. Avoid sharp bends/elbows in the accumulator bypass!

No idea about how NG operate but I emailed the SPEN area engineer who got a junior engineer to reply and we had a verbal agreement in a couple of days to double our existing 3.68kw G98 limit. Submitting the G99 form was just to formalise things...and take some cash off me!

Stupid of me to assume the air inside the house was damp when you mentioned rusting stoves and wok. I should have realised that you might keep your stoves and wok in the garden......no wonder the stoves don't heat the house if they aren't in it. I'm done here. Adios

All those damp issues will almost certainly be due to you not heating the place adequately. When you breath, wash or the plants in your avatar respire, moisture goes into the air. If the surfaces in your house are cold the moisture will condense as water and you'll get all the issues you mention. Again that's physics. All of those issues will cost you so that cost needs to be set against the cost of paying extra to heat the house.

That's way lower than I though but still meaningless to @zoothornas a numeric value.

A hole in a wall or an open window or door is uninsulated, everything else has an insulation value even if its low. That's physics. Your stone walls likely have a better insulation value than early double glazed windows

I think that is a recurring theme

Someone posted a link above to the Vailant controller manual which tells you what the moon symbol means.

Flow temperature is the temperature of the water coming out of the heat pump/boiler. The "medium number setting" would be whatever temperature your system was designed to run at...did you get any paperwork when the original heat pump was put in? If you want the best efficiency you want the flow temp to be as low as possible as that is where heat pumps are most efficient. If you run low temperatures you need bigger radiators to compensate for the lower temperature. In a high heat loss house like yours you'd need some pretty big rads to be able to run the heat pump at low temperatures for best efficiency. The size of rads question has been touched on earlier in the thread!

Isn't the Vaillant stat embedded in the controller which zoot is thinking of relocating.....already within the house?? Our LG is set up seemingly the same with the LG controller having a built in stat and a third party stat is wired to the outdoor unit. Isn't that similar to lots of HPs??