iansr

OK thanks, that’s helpful. Anyone else care to comment?

I’m looking to fit some internal Venetian blinds to various windows and so I’m looking for general advice: what blind material is recommended (aluminium ??) and what should I avoid? I get the impression that there are lots of companies making super profits on blinds so any recommended good VFM suppliers ? i also want to fit some roller blinds to some other windows. Any other general advice about blinds would be appreciated.

I have 3 bathrooms to fit out. My plumber has an account at Easy Bathrooms and will pass on his discount to me. They sell own brand kit rather than name brands. Anybody have any insight into whether their stuff is any good? I’m certainly not wedded to sourcing stuff from there. My goal is good quality kit at a good price (as distinct from top end kit at an exorbitant price) so if anyone has any recommendations as to brands to focus on or suppliers then please advise.

I’m getting several quotes for render. It’s coming down to top spec silicone vs top spec Weber. I’m leaning towards the silicone but welcome comments from anyone knowledgeable on this subject . . . .

Both the old and new cavities are insulated, so no external insulation.

We have radically altered and extended our dormer bungalow. The existing house was / is mainly red brick (with some areas of stone cladding), as is the single storey extension. We are not keen on the red brick. We are going to have wood cladding on the upper storey but below that we are thinking of having the red brick rendered. I know very little about render so any words of advice would be appreciated.

Useful info re the UV performance, thanks.

We are having 2 sets of French doors plus side screens installed in our extension. I have the choice of the standard multi-point locks or PAS 24 spec which would alos require the outer panes to be laminated glass rather than just toughened. The PAS 24 spec would increase the price by £2k ! So my question is; how much extra security will the higher spec give me in practice, or to put it another way, is the lower spec good enough in practice?

That’s a very interesting post, thank you!

PM sent

I’m guessing that PH org charge manufacturers a pretty penny for testing a unit . . .

I had the same thought. No doubt a Zehnder would be better built and have more functionality, but the price difference is HUGE vs what I can get these 2 units for . . .

Hi, Ive got the opportunity to buy a couple of Nuaire units (ECO2 and ECO3) at a good price, so I’d be interested in your thoughts on your unit.

Thanks that’s helpful. Any thoughts on Nuaire anyone?

I’m considering 2 Nuaire units which going at a good price. Anybody any experience of the brand? They don’t seem to be programmable and I’m just wondering if most people set their MVHRs to run at a lower fan speed at night?

Am I right in thinking that you run the 2 units / circuits completely independently of one another?

Very helpful guys, thank you

I’ve been offered 2 MVHR units at an attractive price which together are nicely over specc’d for our property. Apart from finding the space for a second unit, is there any disadvantage to using 2 rather one one bigger unit? (I’m thinking one upstairs and one downstairs and I presume they would operate entirely independently of one another?)

I like the sound of £15 a set - which MVHR unit do you have?

It’s a mixture of retrofit and new. I’ve read mixed reports of the effectiveness of spreader plates so I don’t know what to think of them.

We are going to install UFH. For the most part this will be in areas where there are wood floor joists. We will of course be putting insulation between the joists. We will be laying glue down LVT. This has to be laid on special 5.5mm plywood sheets which have to be laid within certain level tolerances. What are the options as regards installation methods for the UFH pipe work ?

We are extending a dormer bungalow outwards and upwards; its an extensive alteration. I asked our BCO if our MVHR would be subject to Part F and he said No, he would just need to see that the installation was signed off.

With no humidistat and no boost switch does that mean yours just runs at the normal rate when the hob is being used or someone is having a shower?

Based on your experience what features would the panel recommend a buyer look for when choosing a MVHR unit? Eg: Pre-heater? G4 filter? F7 filter? Humidistat? Summer bypass? Low db levels? Manual boost control ? Anything else? Comments invited.

@PeteTheSwede Can I ask how you implemented this in the end?