benben5555

Hi, we are cladding part of our house in larch featheredge weatherboards. It needs to be painted black. Any suggestions on brands of paint / stain? Looking for something that is a nice matt black but keeps / enhances the wood grain. Also, any suggestions on suppliers of 200mm wide larch featheredge would be greatly appreciated!

Did you sit the back edge of the cill on the timber frame? Ours is designed with the window further out so it would have no bearing on the timber frame

Why did you choose to do that though? Just for speed of construction?

We are about to start building our timber frame house and am interested in thoughts on this. I've seen some where the windows are fitted in the frame before the brickwork goes up on the outside. Is this recommended/ best? What is the fixing detail? What about sealing to the brickwork, as we want a tape seal rather than silicone. We have some brick and some timber weatherboard. Thanks

What is "the completion certificate" though. The only thing I'm aware of that we need is the final certificate from building control. We are using a private company for that and I'm not convinced our local council are that efficient.

Hi, what was the outcome of this? Did you keep paying the low rate?

Which of these details do you think is best? The labour and material cost is not significantly different so it really comes down to what will work best. 1. 215mm blocks in outside leaf, 140mm blocks in inside leaf 2. 100mm blocks all round

Perfect, thanks. That is what I had envisaged, but I was concerned that water would get in any small gaps between the finishing strip and the cladding, so I wasn't sure if there would be a hidden flashing or something in there. Doesn't look like it, so I guess it is important to make sure your breather membrane is property detailed and the cavity well ventilated and drained.

That is great information. I've never seen these kind of models before. Really helpful in showing the best approach. What is the software called?

I was thinking about having the timber frame built slightly wider to allow for some insulation in the reveal, but if I do that and set the window back there is going to be nothing to fix the window to. If I set the window back another 30mm and then strap fix the window to the stud I could line the reveal with 25mm insulated plasterboard. How does that sound?

I'd prefer not to insulate the reveals if not necessary. The below is a 60mm set back, what do you think of this arrangement?

Forgot the cavity sock in the above post and I've set the window back to avoid the cold bridge

I'm a bit confused. Does the below detail look correct?

Any thoughts on how far to set back windows within the reveal of a timber framed house? We have areas of brick and areas of timber weatherboard.

Out

The windows are timber (not sure if they are thermally broken). So just return standard plasterboard into the window then? There will be 140mm wool between the studs and 50mm PIR internally.

Is insulated plasterboard the way to go here? Any suggestions on thickness? Also shall I advise the timber frame company to widen the structural opening to allow for the insulation? I.e. for the timber frame opening to be wider than the brickwork to allow for the extra thickness of insulation?

Hi, has anyone got a design detail for a casement window in a timber frame with weatherboard cladding. Specifically I'm interested in the vertical junction of the cladding and window. There is normally a vertical timber between the two but I'm not sure how it all goes together. Thanks

Hi, I've been told by our fire risk assessor that we are going to need a C2 timber frame with fire resistant treated timbers and floors. This is because there are properties on either side of us within a few meters. Has anyone had experience of this or have any idea of the extra over costs. We've already got quotes for the timber frame but without any special treatments.

We've already done a soakaway test which failed as we are on heavy clay so BC are happy that soakaways are not suitable

Hi, we are in the process of a demo and rebuild. We have an existing combined connection to the public sewer that we are planning to reuse. Do we need to seek approval from Severn Trent for this? The new house is a lot bigger so there will be an increased flow. I'm guessing the correct answer is that it is probably best to inform them, but I'm keen to avoid additional costs and hassle.

There is an existing connection because there was already a house on the site so we are re-using that.

Hi guys, we have received approval from building control to not use soakaways for the surface water (heavy clay soil and perc test failed). Everything is now going to go into the combined main sewer at the front of the house. What I want to do now is combine the soil and surface water in mixed pipes within the site, but, in the back of my mind hear someone saying "they do like you to keep them separate until near main sewer". Is this right? The site is narrow on one side and we are going to struggle to get two drains together in the strip between the house and the boundary. Also, its a waste of money and plastic. Can I just combine them wherever, subject to suitable access and rodding of course. Has anyone done this on their builds? Also, if anyone can recommend any simplifications to the layout that would be greatly appreciated! Red - soil, Green - surface, Purple - combined.

For anyone who might pick up this thread... We've now been told by Western Power that the rules are changing from April 2023 and the customer will no longer be required to pay for infrastructure upgrades! So there will just be a set charge for a connection regardless of the infrastructure upgrade requirements. A fair a sensible move I would say.

I've not heard this before. Who does this and does it need to be submitted to building control?