benben5555

What is the purpose of the airtight box?

Hi all, Any recommendations for T&G wall paneling suitable for a bathroom. I've seen a few and some end up with that 'fluffy' mdf appearance. Looking for something of good quality that will allow a nice finish without having to sand excessively. Thanks

Hi, Let me know if not allowed. I've got some left over 75mm radial ductwork. 1 x 16m and 2 x 5m approx Anyone in the Midlands near Nottingham need any - £40

Get it now, I'd missed that bit, thanks

Its not clear to me unfortunately! What is the meaning of this bit where it says 500mm

Hi, Bit confused about the required depth of the hearth in front of the log burner. There are two diagrams in Part J and I'm not sure which one to follow. It will be in a 'fake' chimney breast which is 420mm deep. Any help much appreciated. Thanks

I've had a quote from Octopus for 16 panels (7.04kw) on a SW facing roof (50 degree pitch). The quote appears good value at £7,300 with a GivEnergy 5.2kWh battery. They have given the option to have a Enphase IQ Battery 5kw battery, but the price goes up to £10,089. I have no knowledge of either of these brands and the price difference suggests that the cheaper one is a bit of a no brainer (comes with 12 year guarantee). Any thoughts on this in terms of price and battery brand. There is also an option for a 10kw battery, but again the price goes up to £8,740 & £11,290 for the different brands. We have / will have a 7kw ASHP. I'm also getting a quote from Wickes and may try a couple of local providers, but instinct tells me no one will beat the Octopus price.

How have you found it? I've gone full circle and come back to thinking that the Blauberg is the best solution. Did you notice any extra noise due to the increased resistance from the filter?

Thank you! This I think is what I've been searching for! Which size did you use and where is it mounted? Between intake and MVHR unit? Or before the manifold?

I did see that one on AliExpress, but initially wrote it off thinking it may be suspect quality. It lists the pressure drops and airflow, but I don't understand if these would be an issue

I did look around for that but couldn't find it anywhere

Hi Chaps, I've been installing my Vent Axia MVHR system the last few days (designed by BPC), its got the basic filter installed which I'm planning on changing to a F7 type. I'd like to add a pre-filter and a carbon filter. I've not got the time to make my own so would really like an off the shelf product. I saw the Blauberg Clean Box which has a set of 3 filters, but is expensive and the filters are extortionate. I'm also not sure about the added air resistance. Any ideas on a simple solution? I don't mind spending a few quid as long as I can get the filters subsequently for a reasonable price. Thanks

Hi, We've got a timber frame house under construction. The garage is attached to the house but has a bedroom above. I'm going to insulate the garage walls to keep it slightly warmer in there, there will be no heating, but our water cylinder will be in there. There will be insulation in the garage ceiling to insulate the floor of the room above. I'm planning on using an airtight paint on the floor of the room above. Do I also need to put an air membrane on the inside of the garage? I was planning on doing this, but now I'm not sure if it is necessary. Thanks

Hi, Not sure if this exists but I'm looking for an air tight wall vent for our planned log burner. I'd like to have something that I can open when the stove is in use and then close off to an air tight standard when its not in use. The stove will have direct ventilation but I understand that when you open the door smoke can spill out if you don't have enough air supply in the room (house is airtight with MVHR). Thanks

Sorry yes, I meant service void

Hi, what timber have people used for their cavity battens. Roof battens (25x50) would seem to do the job, but I don't know if a untreated timber would be better. I can't seem to find much untreated wood of a suitable size. Thanks

Hi Guys, Any tips for which is best to install first? I feel that it would make sense to fit the terminals first and then cut the membrane around and push up over. What is the best way to seal the membrane after? Grommets?

Lots of insulation, very airtight! That's the plan anyway. I feel on top of that part, just didn't really consider the plasterboard fixings. I've been in the loft of loads of big estate new builds for my job and never seen a noggin. Pretty sure they just fix everything at 600mm centers

Looks like the easiest option might be to fit a 25x50mm counter batten at 400mm centers then. Would save cutting a huge amount of individual noggins. Plus I've already bought 12.5mm boards so can't really change to 15mm now.

Hi, We are moving on to plasterboarding with our build. The timberframers built everything at 600mm centers with no noggins. What have people done in terms of their plasterboard fixing centers? Take the ceilings as an example, one board would touch 3 joists. I could then fix every 300mm down each joist (longways) but there would still be 600mm gaps widthways. Do you noggin across the ends of each board and put another fixing in between each joist making the widthways fixings 300mm centers (at the ends anyway)? Any maybe one noggin in the middle? Just for our first floor this would be 350 noggins!

I found this conversion table on an Australian website. If the heat loss calc is using natural ventilation rates, 0.5 is the equivalent of 10ACH which is crazy and must be really affecting the calculations. The bathrooms at utility were calculated at 1.5 which would be the equivalent of 30ACH!

Hi, just got our heat loss calculation back for our ASHP. It details the room sizes, insulations levels, window sizes etc and finally the air changes per hour. All of the living rooms and bedrooms have been set to 0.5ACH and the kitchen and utility areas to 1.5ACH. Is this standard practice? We are aiming for a good air tightness (1.5-2ACH), but we will not be anywhere near 0.5ACH. I saw something on Heat Geek saying that the minimum requirement for a new house is 0.5ACH, but surely the heat loss calculation cannot be based on this which would be better than Passivehouse standard.

In the stud wall PIR or mineral wool batts between the studs (make it better by adding some insulation backed plasterboard on the inside). The other bit, if you want to do a proper job remove the soffit and then PIR the area and refix the soffit.

Hi, I'm building timber frame. Got 140mm mineral wool between the studs and then 50mm PIR over, then air tightness membrane over that. Have people taped the joints on the PIR with aluminium foil tape? Or is this not necessary given the air tight membrane will be going over the top anyway? Thanks

Hi guys, we've got polythene airtightness details over and behind the stud walls. What is the best tape to attach these to the airtightness membrane? I'm going to use a better quality membrane for the rest of the house, but this is what we were left with by the timber framers. I'm a but concerned about the tape not sticking. Has anyone used PHS Argo Plus Joint Tape? Seems very cheap compared to some other brands. Only £12 a 25m roll.