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Mains and drains.


curlewhouse

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We are now looking at getting the services into place before June when our SIPs should turn up. I've found both water board and electricity folks to be really helpful and approachable thus far when I've asked for advice or clarification.  I also think their charges are not excessive actually, which I know is not the experience nationally. That may also be because we are very fortunate in having the water running 1 metre away along one boundary and the electricity main running underground 1 metre away under our other boundary, making things much simpler indeed.

 

Electricity is  to come into the site via a meter cabinet set into our retaining wall on the North side of the site (the board are quite happy about that as I doubled checked with them) then into "our" cabinet alongside, from which one SWA cable will go to the house and one to the garage. But during the build, this second cabinet will have the eventual garage consumer unit inside, with an RCD protected external socket on the outside, to give us an electricity supply during the work.  I'm currently using a nice little 2.4KvA generator from Machine Mart to power everything like the cement mixer or saws/drills etc.   https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-fg2500-2-4kva-portable-petrol-powered-g/  . It's a useful size, and  being on wheels makes it really easier for me with by bust disk in my back. 

 

So next I need some time off work and to rent a digger again for the remainder of the levelling and to dig in the electricity cable trench to our boundary. The ground is nice and dry now, in fact the subsoil heap is rock hard - my wife was trying to dig some of it for some infill the other day and said it was difficult - I swung a pick at it to loosen it and the point went in less than an inch! The good soaking it got the other week then drying out has set it like concrete.

 

Once levelled we can also finish off the surface water drain pipe which currently terminates under the sub soil heap. I'm going to put a small brick lined settling chamber in then run it into a pond, only the overflow from the pond will go to the soakaway. BR have seen the plans for that and passed without comment. I did expect some querying with it being a little different, but they seem happy with it. You can see the idea in this plan.

 

 

 

   

Services.jpg

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While sizing the SWA (Steel Wire Armoured) cable I checked out a few forums and found when people ask for advice on the sizing it gets very complicated indeed - in fact on more than one forum you can see it starts to get a little hostile toward the questioner oddly. Also electricians seem to often be unable to agree on earthing and RCD requirements around it and so on. I asked the sizing question on one forum and got ripped to bits by a couple of guys who insist it's not possible for ordinary folks to do electrical work and have it overseen and certified by a part P registered electrician, and then just started attacking me, saying I must be lying! Very odd and such a contrast to how we all behave on this forum. At times people don't agree on an answer but its always civil as far as I can see.  Anyway, by using online calculators some electrical wholesalers provide, I was able to find an answer, and when later asking my nephew (who is a professional electrician who does most if not all of the certification for then firm he works for and has now kindly offered to do ours too) got the same answer from him.  Basically, for a 50 metres run with a 20KvA supply, we've gone for 25mm SWA, which . So that's ordered and comes in with carriage around the £350 mark.

 

My father is a retired electrician and growing up I would help him out (when I was younger, on rewires I would wriggle under floorboards pulling cables from room to room :D - but I was always well paid.) and so naturally we'll be doing our own electrics. I've actually found in the regs that it specifically covers a  person (not a certified person) carrying out the work under the supervision of a part P registered electrician  who must satisfy him/her self that the work is up to code before issuing a certificate.  My father as a sole trader was himself qualified but of course now he is retired is no longer certified, though keeps up to date with new regs out of interest. In fact, we actually ended up with 3 qualified sparkies willing to oversee and certify us - 2 friends and one a relative, my nephew, so I think that pretty much settles that one!

 

The differing answer/arguments over SWA sizing are interesting though as most people answering immediately asked the questioners what current they expected to draw and so on and some quite esoteric questions at times - on one level this makes sense, yet when whole housing estates are wired up, every single new householder is not asked this of course, and naturally, subsequent owners of a house will install different appliances, or might have a welder in their garage and so on - so clearly there must be an "average" or norm that is installed without all the hoo-ha. Distance is a very relevant question of course for voltage drop, but beyond that, it seems overcomplicating -  I mean which of us in moving into a new house digs the cable up to see what diameter it is?   I found this site has a simple to use calculator http://www.doncastercables.com/technical-help/

 

Anyway, we've ended up with a reasonably large size at 25mm 3 core SWA (actually rated at 124 amp so waay above our requirement) making the voltage drop negilgible, so I'm happy with that.

Not sure if I'm allowed to mention who I buy from, (if not, just delete this bit please mods or message me and I will) but I've found TLC-Direct to be excellent over the years, and I usually cannot beat their prices. But what's important is even their cheapest stuff is branded and usually British made too. I've had a lot of good cheap low voltage electronics from China over the years, but for mains  voltages I prefer to know it's made to code. I've noticed you can buy UK mains fittings on eBay from China, but having seen some tear downs online of some 240v rated chi9nese goods... (Bigclivedotcom on youtube for one) er, no thank you!

Edited by curlewhouse
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I know certain electrical forums tend to be hostile towards DIYers, not something I personally support.

 

At the length you have, it's the voltage drop (measured in volts not milliamps :D ) that is the limiting thing that determines the cable size to use, not the current carrying capacity. And the discussions about maximum demand can get interesting as well.

 

There is nothing wrong with an unskilled person installing cables under the supervision of a skilled person who is going to test and sign off the work, but some in the trade don't even like doing that. Personally if someone wants to do the more tedious manual work then I am happy with that.

 

Make sure you bury the cable deep enough, with some yellow "electrical cable below" warning tape in the trench just above it.

 

P.S, I would have put your meter box in your wall at the back corner (top as viewed in the plan) It would drastically shorten the run to the house, but perhaps make the garage run slightly longer. 

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Yes, me too. Northern networks wanted it top right of the plan unfortunately, so we have 2 runs, one right round the back of the house into the utility room and the other to the garage/workshop. It's all in place now (with yellow marker tape), though for the Northern networks bit to our box they insist they'll only accept rigid "tile" covering and rigid ducting - even though their national body accepts coilable ducting and you can't buy the rigid tile except in massive quantitites (I scrounged some as I only need about 2 metres). 

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