Great_scot_selfbuild Posted January 12 Posted January 12 I sometimes wonder why I bothered nominating a Principal Designer and Principal Contractor. The PD hasn't made clear on the drawings where fire stops are needed (though I've done my reading and understand the principles), and the PC hasn't asked about them before rushing in to install the battens for cladding. I've read this helpful thread - (surprised I couldn't find many more tbh) In short: I'm going to have to notch out of the battens space to install fire stops around each window and at the first floor level. Our build is, fortunately it seems, a Larsen truss wall filled with cellulose, which leads straight into the roof trusses (without a break or void), which appears to solve that worry. We have shingles fitted to counter battens and so only have a 25mm gap to be able to fit a fire stop in line with the vertical battens (or cutting across them for the horizontal break between ground and first floor). I believe I need fire stops around each window, at the break between ground and first floor, and literally just above this, at the top of cladding under the eaves. Inside, because we have a warm roof on the flat roof, I expect we need a fire stop above the wall where it meets the flat roof joists - but this will involve cutting it to fit the small gaps between the joists. What I need advice on is: What fire stop material have people used behind a timber cladding?
Stratman Posted January 13 Posted January 13 Cavity barriers in external walls FAQ.pdf This document might help with locations for cavity barriers in external walls by LABC Warranty. I also found this diagram helpful: 1 1
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