16mm double glazeed unit in 27mm rebate

[Carovero]

Hello! New on the forum here 👋
A few windows in our new dwelling was completely rotten so I have made new ones from Douglas fir. Question 1) would there be a problem to fit 16mm double glazing in a 27mm rebate? Previous windows had 14mm windows in, with some sort of putty on the outside (not wooden beading). I made the stiles and railes 5mm wider than on the original frames. Question 2) could I fit them with brads or sprigs and use a putty replacement such as Repair care dry seal mp or Hodgson heritage putty instead of fixing them with wooden beading (externaly). Or would they be too heavy? Was planning on fully bed them, meaning Im not leaving them with air around the glass.. not sure about the terminology. Thank you for reading 🙂 

[Carovero]

I forgot to say they are casement windows and glass required around 450x980 mm .. so units would be around 10kg?

[Carovero]

[craig]

17 hours ago, Carovero said:

Question 1) would there be a problem to fit 16mm double glazing in a 27mm rebate?

Unlikely, just ensure you leave enough space from the frame to the glass, 5mm or 6mm would be recommended. 

 

 

17 hours ago, Carovero said:

Question 2) could I fit them with brads or sprigs and use a putty replacement such as Repair care dry seal mp or Hodgson heritage putty instead of fixing them with wooden beading (externaly).

Put glazing tape around the frame, where the glass meets the frame (face), externally seal with silicone (soudal) on the inside use soudal as well and you can hide the fixing nail for the bead (see below)

 

Externally, you will need a drip rail on the frame, so that the water doesn't pool at the frame/glass. Have you allowed for any drainage if water gets past the silicone/putty and in the rebate area? The frame rebate is flat, so the water would pool and rot eventually, you should allow it to drain through the frame and out the bottom at the front face (som drill holes) and then put some cover caps on it.

 

Edited Friday at 13:58 by craig

[craig]

Forgot to say, good job on the frame, looks good.

[Carovero]

Great! Thank you they were great fun to make. And thank you for your in depth answer! Yes I was thinking about the bottom rail being flat and that if water gets in there, it would just sit. Do I absolutely need to cap it aswell or could i just drill a few holes? 
 

and regards to drip rail on the windows.. the cill underneath which is also wood have just a grove routed in along to stop the water getting to the wall. could I do similar on the window frame? Or should it sit “externally” on the outside frame face?

And I’m not sure I completely understand if you could use soudal like a linseed putty replacement and have pins/push points(??) to hold the glass, the way you would with single glass or it really needs to be wooden beading externally to hold it in? (units goes in from the exterior)

 

[craig]

10 hours ago, Carovero said:

Is the inside view or the external view?

[Carovero]

External view

[Carovero]

This is internal view

[craig]

A different approach required then, as you're externally beading them, not much different to be honest, still use the glazing tape but on the face of the rebate, offer the glass up, then bead but I'd suggest drilling some angle holes to the front (slot left, slot right should be fine), no more than 30mm. You can bead the glazing beads with pins, but nice to have a little bit of space between the bead and the glass, just so you can put some soudal around, this will help with water getting in the glazed area but if it does, the slots would help with drainage. 

If you use the glazing tape, you'll also have a little bit of a gap from the frame to the glass on the inside, a little but of soudal on the inside as well around the frame/glass. Putty would work just as well inside and out (if you preferred a putty finish).