Carovero Posted Thursday at 20:00 Posted Thursday at 20:00 Hello! New on the forum here 👋 A few windows in our new dwelling was completely rotten so I have made new ones from Douglas fir. Question 1) would there be a problem to fit 16mm double glazing in a 27mm rebate? Previous windows had 14mm windows in, with some sort of putty on the outside (not wooden beading). I made the stiles and railes 5mm wider than on the original frames. Question 2) could I fit them with brads or sprigs and use a putty replacement such as Repair care dry seal mp or Hodgson heritage putty instead of fixing them with wooden beading (externaly). Or would they be too heavy? Was planning on fully bed them, meaning Im not leaving them with air around the glass.. not sure about the terminology. Thank you for reading 🙂
Carovero Posted Friday at 08:32 Author Posted Friday at 08:32 I forgot to say they are casement windows and glass required around 450x980 mm .. so units would be around 10kg?
craig Posted Friday at 13:50 Posted Friday at 13:50 (edited) 17 hours ago, Carovero said: Question 1) would there be a problem to fit 16mm double glazing in a 27mm rebate? Unlikely, just ensure you leave enough space from the frame to the glass, 5mm or 6mm would be recommended. 17 hours ago, Carovero said: Question 2) could I fit them with brads or sprigs and use a putty replacement such as Repair care dry seal mp or Hodgson heritage putty instead of fixing them with wooden beading (externaly). Put glazing tape around the frame, where the glass meets the frame (face), externally seal with silicone (soudal) on the inside use soudal as well and you can hide the fixing nail for the bead (see below) Externally, you will need a drip rail on the frame, so that the water doesn't pool at the frame/glass. Have you allowed for any drainage if water gets past the silicone/putty and in the rebate area? The frame rebate is flat, so the water would pool and rot eventually, you should allow it to drain through the frame and out the bottom at the front face (som drill holes) and then put some cover caps on it. Edited Friday at 13:58 by craig 1
craig Posted Friday at 14:10 Posted Friday at 14:10 Forgot to say, good job on the frame, looks good. 1 1
Carovero Posted Friday at 18:25 Author Posted Friday at 18:25 Great! Thank you they were great fun to make. And thank you for your in depth answer! Yes I was thinking about the bottom rail being flat and that if water gets in there, it would just sit. Do I absolutely need to cap it aswell or could i just drill a few holes? and regards to drip rail on the windows.. the cill underneath which is also wood have just a grove routed in along to stop the water getting to the wall. could I do similar on the window frame? Or should it sit “externally” on the outside frame face? And I’m not sure I completely understand if you could use soudal like a linseed putty replacement and have pins/push points(??) to hold the glass, the way you would with single glass or it really needs to be wooden beading externally to hold it in? (units goes in from the exterior)
craig Posted Friday at 19:03 Posted Friday at 19:03 10 hours ago, Carovero said: Is the inside view or the external view?
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