ASHP Pipe sizing

[Barnboy]

Thank you @JohnMo , I will look into all of this later this evening. Your wealth of knowledge has been extremely helpful.

[Barnboy]

@JohnMo what sort of pressure / flow were you putting through the ion filter ?

I'm looking at filling and pressure testing my system later today and don't know what sort of flow the filter will work at before being overwhelmed.

Should I fit it inline from the garden hose, (the hose can produce about 4.5bar when the borehole pump kicks in) or fill the system and then run the manifold pump and divert the flow through the ion filter ?

[JohnMo]

25 minutes ago, Barnboy said:

@JohnMo what sort of pressure / flow were you putting through the ion filter ?

I'm looking at filling and pressure testing my system later today and don't know what sort of flow the filter will work at before being overwhelmed.

Should I fit it inline from the garden hose, (the hose can produce about 4.5bar when the borehole pump kicks in) or fill the system and then run the manifold pump and divert the flow through the ion filter ?

 

I flushed and filled via a flush and fill valve. Like this

https://www.bes.co.uk/22-mm-3-4in-solar-drain-flush-valve-20994/

 

Used the inlet and outlet to throttle down the flow and have a sub 0.5 bar system pressure while flushing.

 

Initial flush was done on a higher rate, maybe 5 to 6 l/min via a 100m garden hose. But mostly to replace the glycol etc. When I was happy everything was clean, I needed to reduce flow down to about 1 l/min or less to get low conductivity reading, for this a switched on the heating circulation pump and manipulated all three valve on the flushing valve unit, to set up a slip stream through the de-ioniser filter and let it run for about 8 hrs one day and same again a couple of days later.

 

 

[Barnboy]

44 minutes ago, JohnMo said:

 

I flushed and filled via a flush and fill valve. Like this

https://www.bes.co.uk/22-mm-3-4in-solar-drain-flush-valve-20994/

 

Used the inlet and outlet to throttle down the flow and have a sub 0.5 bar system pressure while flushing.

 

Initial flush was done on a higher rate, maybe 5 to 6 l/min via a 100m garden hose. But mostly to replace the glycol etc. When I was happy everything was clean, I needed to reduce flow down to about 1 l/min or less to get low conductivity reading, for this a switched on the heating circulation pump and manipulated all three valve on the flushing valve unit, to set up a slip stream through the de-ioniser filter and let it run for about 8 hrs one day and same again a couple of days later.

 

 

Perfect, thank you, I thought that the full pressure of the hose would have overwhelmed the filter.

[JohnMo]

Tap to the house was almost closed also

[Barnboy]

@JohnMo I filtered my 1st batch of water yesterday, I ended up buying an aquarium filter system as it was a good price and an easy option.

It consists of a pump, sediment filter, carbon filtwr, reverse odmosis filter and di unit.

It produced 10ltrs of water per hour with a fair amount of waste water, they say 1:4 ratio, I tested the ppm before at 240ppm and after it comes out at a big 0, I had to retest a couple of times to make sureas I didn't believe the tester but it came up with the same result each time. 

Now I need to build my temporary Willis setup and get a power source to get it running.

[JohnMo]

23 minutes ago, Barnboy said:

and after it comes out at a big 0

You may need to get the conductivity up a bit, I think it needs to above 100 for a few reasons, heat geek VDI 2035 mentioned a few.

 

This is what my ASHP manual says for the spec.

[Barnboy]

I'll need to find the info for the ashp that I was thinking of using and see what they spec, I also need to test ph etc as I've only had time to do the tdm so far. 

Maybe I'll try mixing a bit of tap water back in with some of the filtered water and see how it changes the readings.

[Barnboy]

I've looked through a couple of different Mitsi and Samsung manuals to try and find water specs but I haven't found anything in any of them yet. 

Heetgeek say under 1500 microsiemens for conductivity and ph is best at 8.2.

I'm waiting on a some ph drops to arrive but I know from an official water test of my supply 2 weeks ago that the ph was down in the High 6's, What's the best way of raising this ? , I've got some salts for swimming pools but do these work long term, or is there something better to use ?

[JohnMo]

53 minutes ago, Barnboy said:

What's the best way of raising this

A heating season will bring the pH up apparently.

[sharpener]

11 hours ago, Barnboy said:

What's the best way of raising this ? , I've got some salts for swimming pools but do these work long term, or is there something better to use ?

 

Sodium bicarbonate. I think that is what is sold as "pH booster" for swimming pools. We use it to raise the pH of harvested rainwater. A water treatment specialist once told me his rule of thumb is that 100g will increase the pH of 1 cu m of water by 1.0 but it hasn't seemed very accurate in practice. 

 

For treating house water supplies there are also Juraperle (Calcium-based) and Corosex (Magnesium) https://www.wrekinwaterfiltration.co.uk/wrekinwaterfiltration/category_final.asp?department=Private Water Treatment&category=PH Correction Media#scroll

Any salts you add will increase the conductivity, and the Ca and Mg carbonates will increase the propensity for limescale to form neither of which you will want. This is a good free water chemistry tool here www.aqion.de.

 

My Vaillant HP installers just used Adey tests and pronounced my tapwater to be fine (pH ~7.5).

[Barnboy]

My water source has a ph 6.53, so I'm a bit worried about putting this straight in being slightly acidic. 

[sharpener]

Sodium bicarbonate is probably your least bad option.

[JohnMo]

11 hours ago, Barnboy said:

water source has a ph 6.53

But when you strip out the minerals, via ion exchange and reverse osmosis you change the properties of the water a great deal. So check before you assume anything with respect pH.