Ewan Posted August 14, 2023 Share Posted August 14, 2023 Installing UFH as part of a renovation, to be run from a Worcester Bosch Greenstar 30i. Plumber is of the opinion that everything should be zoned up the wazoo, myself less so. Aiming for as few as possible. I'm looking at the Bosch Easycontrol CT200 (as it will modulate my boiler), and support said I would need this stat for the UFH as well: https://www.worcester-bosch.co.uk/professional/bosch-smart-individual-thermostat My question is, can I do away with all the Heatmiser NEO stuff that the UFH supplier wants to sell me? If so, what does need to be purchased to physically operate the UFH on the manifold? the UFH stat needs to be wired into something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ewan Posted August 14, 2023 Author Share Posted August 14, 2023 If they configure the UFH to have 4 zones say, will I then have to get 4 UFH stats to be wired into the manifold actuators? Would there be a way to use one stat on all actuators? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ewan Posted August 14, 2023 Author Share Posted August 14, 2023 This thread helped a lot: so looks like we can wire one stat to the manifold controller, which will then open all the actuators. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnMo Posted August 14, 2023 Share Posted August 14, 2023 1 hour ago, Ewan said: so looks like we can wire one stat to the manifold controller, which will then open all the actuators. Or just don't have any actuators. I use my single wireless thermostat to give the heat source permission to start and stop. My existing wiring centre is still there, but I have nothing connected to it except the thermostat wires (those thermostats no longer used). The whole wiring centre is switched off. Not sure of your screed thickness, but the thicker the more time it takes to heat up from taking warm water. Can be several hours to see any meaningful temperature change in the room, if your water temp is too high room temp can overshoot, also depending on the thermostat you use, that can cause under and overshoot also. If you use a normal thermostat, that could have a hysterisis of upwards of a degree, if your lucky it maybe +/-0.5 deg. Any thermostat with thick screed needs a thermostat with a hysterisis of circa +/-0.1 degs. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ewan Posted August 15, 2023 Author Share Posted August 15, 2023 I think the Tado thermostats are +/-0.1 degrees, from what I’ve read on their forum anyway. I already have a few of these so will give it a try. Screed is planned to be 70mm. Current idea is to use Bosch sense ii weather comp (this has the option of room influence), & tado as smart relay set a bit higher than desired temp. Boiler only modulates to 7.2kW and heat loss is 4.5kW at DOT so it will cycle a bit. ALso considering Salus ABAs to deal with intermittent heat imbalance from solar gain.. could always be a future option if this turned out to be an issue. Would they be a way to tackle that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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