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Wall insulation upgrade options

Featured Replies

Hi, we are in the early stages of working out how best to update the insulation of a 3 bed L shaped 1990 built timber frame brick clad Scandia Hus bungalow as part of a major renovation. The spec of the walls is as in the image below. I stand to be corrected as we are on a very steep learning curve but these U-values look pretty good for a 1990 build? How do they compare today? What if anything would you suggest to improve their thermal performance. We are planning to upgrade where we can but don't want to throw money at it where its of limited benefit. The wall perimeter is about 60m all round although there will be about 11m of full height glass doors in three sections on the southernish elevations. Thanks in advance for any tips!

 

image.thumb.png.3fe4bfebc2a9689483bbaa968811a2fa.png

I think the u-value for new build walls is now 0.16.

 

Putting additional insulation is good but only worth it if you are intending to stay put.

Of the basic elements: walls, floors, roof, glazing, and airtightness its no use having one excellent if the others are poor.  

 

Best value items are usually first draft excluder and pluging up drafty holes espically around where services enter and leave the building including holes through the floor. Secondly a good foot of loft insulation.

 Then its looking at the rest.

 Suspended timer floors are well worth insulating.

If all these things are already done then an internal coat over the external wall plasterboard and re plasterboard over that or something that someone cleverer has thought of.

If you have good air tightness then possibly a mechanical ventilation with heat recovery (MVHR) system  or an air source heat pump (ASHP) system might be better money spent.

 

Good luck

Marvin

 

  • Author

tks,

for a refurb i believe its 0.30 so at 0.233 that is already met. But is it sensible to invest in reducing it further? I am guessing that the costs will outweigh any benefits financially and payback would be a very long way off. The roof void only has 150mm and 0.214 u-value. Things like air tightness and MHRV and ASHP/GSHP are all on the table too. I am just trying to get a feel for where to invest time, effort and of course money.

Edited by RomyD

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