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Quick, silly question, I think the answer is yes. The rafters which forms the outside of the verge has, up to now, been 'sourced from our C16 set of rafters. But the architect's spec is for C16, and it doesn't mention ' treated ' ..... And I'm about to fit the last one, but we've run out of C16 9 by 2: tempted to fit normal , plain vanilla, PAR (9 by 2) Does the outside rafter of the verge have to be treated ?

Now that I come to look in detail at our rafter tails, I am beginning to realise that they were designed by someone who has never fitted the specified PIR in between any rafters, let alone ours....... First an empty rafter tail: the end in mind is fill it with insulation Yes, you are right: each rafter has a double bird's mouth. The gap between the rafters in this case is 318mm wide. The gap that needs filling starts at the wall (bottom of the image) and runs up to the noggin between the rafters. The wall plate (sitting in its green polythene jacket) sits about 25 mm in from the inside edge of the wall. So, I had a go: this is what I did; Before you start applauding my master-craftspersonship, there's still gap at the back of the wallplate to fill. Grrrr. This is the architect's illustration of the way the gap will be filled..... I love the elegant way the PIR fits seamlessly over the wallplate. The reason I am growling is that the gap between each rafter is a few mm different to the others. So, 6 years from now, I will still be stuck on a scaffold shaving off a few mm here and there to fit the sodding PIR. Please tell me there is a better way. By better I mean quicker. No is not acceptable The best idea so far I have had is to give Debbie some glue, a saw, some off cuts of PIR , a safety harness and go for a walk......

Hi All, Issue cropped up today when getting ready to slate the last of the roof. When we reached the roof light opening and were measuring up to batton out the openings we realised that the openings are to big for the Keylite Combi flashing supplied. Basically the flashing requires max 100mm between openings. However due to info given to me by Keylite I've allowed for tolerances on each of the openings so middle opening is approx 45mm to wide since it turns out the middle opening doesn't allow for any tolerance with this flashing kit!! I need to move the twin rafters over by this amount. Options: 1. Strip roof, gutters, fascia and soffit, cut out trimmers and then add new full length rafter (birds mouths both ends as seated in web of steel ridge beam and wall plate) and then cut out rafter in the way. Add vertical trimmer on far right to maintain spacing 2. Come up with a way to cut out part of twin rafter (XXXX in picture) and add vertical trimmers (white boxes in picture) I'm posting as my structural engineer was busy on another job and now it's the weekend so have no idea what I should do. The roofers were going to be finishing off this last section tomorrow (sat) which would mean that the roof is finished and they're due to start a new job on Monday! So may be a couple of weeks or more before they're available to help finish off... The spec by engineer is for twin rafters between windows. If I cut and trim as per the picture it would mean that there is only 1 continuous rafter but with the amount of structure around it to my untrained view it should be ok! I'm a mixture of annoyed that I was given duff info months ago and stressed as I can't afford any delays at the moment (mainly due to needing to get to weathertight stagepayment!) I'm resigned to having to chase engineer on Monday but hoping I might get some ideas / reassurance before then that I don't have to go the extreme of stripping the roof to move a rafter 45mm!!!