Mr Blobby

I think I did, TBH. I should have put the specs under people's noses and banged my fist on the table immediately prior to work being done. Lesson learned😖 Here's the cold feed to the kitchen, coming off the end of the manifold instead of the valved outlet. Apart from triggering my OCD and not looking as pretty, I'm going to assume this works ok. Besides, the merchant didn't have another manifold in stock (I could have picked one up quite easily of course). There is a valve in the pipe just under the photo. Manifold is now 1 inch, off a 22mm feed 😕.

🤦‍♀️

... the manifolds were first fitted on the wrong (as per the MandE drawings) wall and I got them moved. But they are still in the wrong place so the cold to the kitchen is now going to be doing its own thing 🤦‍♀️ There's no way the plumber is ever going to read the M and E specs 🤷‍♂️ (Although in fairness a bunch of stuff changed since the original M and E spec hence I'm to blame for not being too strict after the documents were issued)

My thoughts exactly Interesting. Do you leave these permanently in place, or just for commissioning? Do they clip on the UFH pipes below the manifold? Are they accurate enough, and do you have any links to products please.

No, no isolators on the other ends that are plumbed so far. Call me cynical, but the way it seems to work is tradesman finds a day he needs to fill. His regular merchant doesn't have the bits in stock, so substitute with whatever is on the shelves. I texted the plumber yesterday and haven't heard back so he probably isn't very happy. But he's going to charge me twice for doing it twice so I don't see the problem. Besides, this isn't a popularity contest, it just needs to be done right. The trades already think I'm a pita so I've nothing to lose 😆

Does the diameter of the manifold matter? Maincor do a manifold that connects straight to the mlcp pipes but only the 1 inch manifold has connectors for 20mm mlcp.

Ok, so I could have been more specific, but really, specifying a manifold without valves is like specifying a car without wheels. I didn't think I needed to be that specific 😒 The problem is my trades always want to do everything at least cost because that's what they always do. It's just frustrating. Assume nothing 😬 Can valves be inserted here at the junction, or is it entirely new manifolds?

I had assumed my plumbing manifolds would be fitted with individual isolation valves. Assuming my plumber has no intention of fitting valves to these manifolds, then please tell me that (a) it doesn't matter, or (b) an alternative product with valves. Three of our HW (showers and bath) pipes are wider diameter than the rest.

I see you have shiny ridge clamps. We had this also, the roofer had ordered cheaper ridge kit than vmzinc that came in ral 7016 but the coating came off. The roofer agreed to go up on the ridge and shape a peice of roof material to cover the brackets and looks well.

I actually powder coated my clamps to be the same colour as the roof 🤪 but not sure it achieved much 🫤 My standing seam is at 400 instead of 600 centres, to reduce canning, something else for you to think about 🤔

Here's ours being installed. @Russdl's look way smarter and low profile, perhaps because of the distance from the ground. You can see the clamps being installed, they have a disk that sits 15mm above the seam. We've had no issue with birds trying to go underneath. I wish I could have fitted three rows of panels on that South facing elevation 😕

Our manifolds have no gauges. Which is a bit disappointing as I would be rather interested to see flow and return temps at the manifold. I can't see any reason not to have temperature guages at the manifolds, am I missing something here? In short, is it a good thing to install some guages at the manifold? I would have thought it would be useful for commissioning, if nothing else.

We looked at stick on panels and then decided against. After the standing seam roof went up we couldn't bring ourselves to cover it with panels on the SW front of the house so installed panels only at the rear, where nobody will ever notice. And some on the flat roof garage to catch some rays in the winter months. For the standing seam roof we used the s-5 railess pvkit. Neat enough for the back but, IMHO, too ugly for the front.

No, dense block. Approx 10 mm mortar under the skim coat. Plastered over the winter, internal temps never went below 10 degrees. Dried out very slowly, no excess heat or dehumidifiers. Took a few months for the cracks to develop, but are not along mortar lines, and given the house is on a Kore slab on hard rock underneath then I don't think this is any subsidence issue.

Sorry, forgot to say it's wet plaster, on mortar scratch coat. No plasterboard.