Mr Blobby

Yup. No VAT on potatoes. VAT on chips.

Your'e telling me 😫 So the filler won't stick to the extender?

The builder just shrugged and said its to be expected. Really gives me the pip. This particular socket is the worst. I wouldn't mind but prior to plastering I had repeatedly asked if there was any way to insert blanks into the sockets to guarantee a straight edge and was poo-pooed for even suggesting such a thing. The house is now painted, but surely this should have been fixed before painting. Just another job for me to fix between the trades. Where the backbox is deeper than the surface of the plaster, then what's the best way to fill out to a corner? 🤔 Insert a blank of some kind, or just do multi-layers? Even my wife asked if the sparks have a spirit level. They don't. I've levelled up a bunch of sockets but the ones above are beyond fixing. Maybe I'll just start a new thread with a list of all the things that trades torment me with. Every day there's another shocker. Maybe I'm too pessimistic, maybe the builder gets the decorator to sort this and that's why he's not bothered. He's away on his sailing boat on Wednesday (I kid you not) so I better pin him down before then 😬

What's the best way to fix this? Time machine? A dozen or so sockets are like this. 😕

First floor, underneath windows at front (SW) side are the worst. Diagonally down from corners. Tops of most doors the same. Diagonally upwards.

Like this... This is how ours is built. The bricklayers put a strip of PIR about 40mm wide into the blockwork. If I get down the site later I'll get a photo.

Assuming the black line is the garage door inside the reveal (as sectional doors are typically installed) then the inner leaf adjacent to the door should be thermally broken with a strip of PIR. This is because the reveal is on the cold side.

It is A Rated, and it looks like it does have Vacuum insulated panels and PUR. So where inside the cylinder are the vacuum panels and who thinks they are punctured? The tank is not yet filled or heated so I can't do a temperature test to identify heat loss around the penetrations to determine if the VIP are punctured. Plumber has the hump with me ever since I told him to change the manifold 😕 I think its about to get worse. 😬 What now?

I can lift the screws on the top clamp with my fingernail, so its not doing much

Thank you for this. Definitely an oso cylinder. I had never heard of vacuum insulation on a cylinder, so I'll go take a look.

The heat pump is installed 😀. And its anthracite. And thanks to guidance on here, the single zone, two manifold system is running beautifully. No buffer, no pumps, no mixers, its as simple as can be. These Panasonic units seem incredibly easy to install and set up. I'm struggling to see why it needs to be commissioned by a Panasonic Pro partner. I'm not sure how they are going to add any value. Except for the extended warranty.

I was surprised, and rather disappointed to find our plumber had screwed into my lovely Panasonic cylinder to fix pipes. Googling around it seems this is common practice to fix into the cylinder so I'm much calmer now. However, the clips are all loose, suggesting the screws have not threaded onto the external skin of the tank. I have a box or short wide self tappers on site that would probably have been far more effective but its too late now. Any thoughts on this?

This was my first choice but Northern Ireland is shut down this week and all the merchants are closed. Hopefully somewhere will be open tomorrow. Daft question time. I attach the inhibitor to the filling loop, open the valve and then inject it. So there is enough pressure (>1.5 bar) in the inhibitor can to inject the inhibitor into the pressurised system? Or depressurise it?

The good news is that the UFH is finally, sort of, up and running and the heat pump is totally awesome. The bad news is the plumber left the bottle of inhibitor I gave him on the floor. I don't know what bit of "make sure you add this inhibitor and biocide when you fill the system" was not clear, but maybe I made it sound too complicated. Everything here in Northern Ireland is closed for the annual marching and rioting holiday period. The plumber is unlikely to return before August. Obviously the thought of my heat pump rusting away is rather unsettling, but am I being too dramatic? Its only a couple of weeks right? Or should the inhibitor be added as a matter of urgency? If it should be added now then how? Its impossible to get a plumber and I have no plumbing skills at all. The inhibitor is in a bottle, not the injector thingy, and we have no magnetic filter with a useful dosing thingy. I suppose I could maybe drain a manifold. Or just leave it. Whats the worst that can happen?

No, the floor is solid, its hollow core slabs so the only thing that flexes when I jump on it is my ageing knees. Thermally porcelain tiles may help the cooling, but aesthetically I'm not sure if SWMBO will accept pretend wood. I think I need to get her to a tile showroom.