Post and beam

Hi Guys Our site slopes down away from the lane towards our house by about 90cm over 8 metres. Each side is also about 8 metres wide. So i have a wedge shape on either side of the central drive that i need to fill. Not certain if it needs to also be SUDs compliant. Filling it 100%with topsoil will probably be more expensive than necessary. If anyone has done similar how did you approach this please?

Thanks for the suggestions guys

Here are pictures of the manifold.

It does, but thats not relevant to my original post.

Yes. We have a 1.4 reading on air tightness from Aerobarrier. Yes it is. 75mm, why?

Will do when i get home later.

Thanks dude, that was the motivation. Regarding the Ivar mixing valve option. I am not sure i have the space to install one as it happens. Therefore a review of my radiators to move them around and fit a couple of larger ones might be the thing to do. K3 instead of K2 perhaps.

I dont propose to disconnect anything. I thought i could use the pressure/flow thats in the UVC. This is after all the same pressure as the mains inlet is it not? I have not done anything yet. sanity check here first.

WC @ .45, on all the time.

Based on a previous discussion in another post i did wonder about a mixing valve. There is nothing like this currently in our setup.

Prior to starting our build and when deciding on what and how we would heat the house we were told more than once that separate heating upstairs was not required. Ours is not at Passiv level, it does have a .11 roof, .12 floor and .15 walls. We have UFH downstairs and a total of 6 radiators upstairs. All on a single unmixed heating zone. Radiators were sized for the expected heat loss and flow temperatures. The bedrooms are at about 18.5 - 19 degrees which feels a little chilly to me. Heat does not appear to reach upstairs very effectively. We have a centrally located 180 degree return staircase. There is a noticeable gradient in temperature as you get to the landing, which surprised me. Now, i fully accept that our single zone design with a flow temperature that has not so far ever got above 38 degrees even at minus 5 in December is not best suited to radiators upstairs. But that is not the point. If we had gone without radiators at all upstairs we would be in trouble . For those contemplating going without any heating upstairs i hope this little tale is helpful. keith

Hi Wise ones, One of my circuits is not flowing water, 12 total. Is this plan the correct way to do this. #1 Shut all the flow valves except the suspect one. #2 Connect a drain hose to the Right hand side outlet where indicated. #3 Shut the Cold return at the left hand side. #4 Use water from the UVC upstairs via the manifold flow inlet at top left to flush through the suspect circuit. Out via the drain hose once the egress tap is opened. I hope i have this correct but feel sure the collective will put me right if not. Here's hoping...

Perhaps weirdly, i had less problems with clambering on ice covered roof rafters last january than i do now. We moved in in November with all of the internal painting, architraves & skirting still to do. We only have 3 doors out of a total of 15 required. I am finding it increasingly difficult to motivate myself to do anything at the moment.

I was worried about exactly the same issue last year when our scaffold was ready to come down. The brickies particularly had left loads of red dust and crap all over the boards. other stuff as well. The boards looked horrendous. As Nick says, the scaffolders just expect it and knock the worst off anyway.