Post and beam

Not sure if this is very clear, #1 shows the membrane above one of the beams. This is first floor ceiling. And #2 , the dark shadowy bit, Is the membrane above the studwork that makes up the first floor ceiling. So the perimeter of the first floor ceiling is a continuation of the airtight boundary from below. As stated previously, i could tape to, and continue this membrane across the whole first floor ceiling. No idea if this is the usual practice. But every light pendant would breach it and render useless. My TF frame company are very off hand now and just say ' this is for others'. Perhaps the usual thing is to box out the light pendant locations within the ceiling timbers, carry the membrane to these apertures leaving a smaller area to deal with after the lights are fitted. Any and all practical solutions or experience gratefully taken on board. keith

At a loss to understand how i can create the upper airtightness boundary.

I thought so.

No consistency at all, East herts did not want anything other than photos. In my submission for Bricks ,tiles and window colour i ended each sentence with ' or similar' . They did not comment or object which i feel gives me a degree of leeway should i need to change anything.

Hi Nick Described as a cold roof when i explained that the MVHR unit was going into the loft. 400mm of Ursa rockwool in the loft.

The TF frame erectors have left airtightness membrane visible at the tops of the studwork and feature beams on the first floor. I conclude that the loft space is not regarded as part of the airtight envelope. I do not understand what i need to do next to maintain this envelope. I could of course tape membrane to the existing across the entire ceiling prior to the plasterboard being installed. This does not seem to be the correct approach though, i guess i have misunderstood something. #a: because the lighting installations would subsequently breach this everywhere and render it useless. What have i misunderstood please?

We have a large fireplace opening in the Sips panels of our house shell. There will be a large inglenook and working chimney. The TF company have washed their hands of providing any advice and simply say ' thats not within our scope, it is for your bricklayer' This is not within my skilset and i am at a loss to know how the hearth is to be integrated into the living room at 90 degrees to the Sips wall such that we maintain airtightness. No detail is provided within the construction drawings and my chosen brickie appears to be perplexed by the thing. I assumed this would be second nature to an experienced Brickie. Can anyone offer any real world experience of the subject please?

Thanks guys

Our build has an opening for what we have always expected will be a 550 wide by 980 tall Velux. The TF frame has been constructed with an aperture that is 1470 tall. I pointed out that this is a mistake and have been told that it is not. The Velux should be placed centrally into the opening and then boarded internally at 45 degrees to maximise light. This does not address the 'too big' opening on the external side. I will be contacting Velux on monday but does anyone have experience on how these are fitted into the build and the gaps around. Becuase i think i am being fed a crock from my TF suppler. Thanks as always

Do you have a brand recommendation? Regards keith

Hi Guys Friday question. The DPC that we need to lap to the 1200 floor membrane is really quite stiff. I am struggling to understand the practical issues of holding this down against the kicker blocks, lapping the floor membrane up over it and then stacking the kingspan 'upstand' insulation against it prior to putting the 150mm floor insulation down. Is there a tape or glue that is good enough to hold this thick DPC against the kicker blocks please that is known to be effective? Thanks in advance keith

I have also been using this in the past week for my Barge boards initially. Goes on great with excellent coverage. Recommend it. £75 for 5 litres. I am more than half way done and less than half of the tin used.

So i can lay the cable in the trench without any ducting then. My plan was always a 100mm sand bed, cable, 200mm back fill then the 'cable under' tape.

The Kiosk that i am fitting out by the entrance to the plot is 20 metres from the house. I am not a sparky and am struggling to understand what cable is acceptable for a 100Amp (23KVA) supply from the kiosk to the consumer unit indoors. The meter will stay out in the Kiosk. Partly because the DNO price to move it later is eye watering. Not only confused by what cable but whether i can install it in the 32mm Consuit sunk 450mm under the lawn. Any details gratefully received as always keith

Not airtightness actually, although that would be a concern of course. No, the issue as i have learned is that if moisture can linger in this gap then rot can set in.