Post and beam

I'd like most of it to be short grass, i did buy a ride on mower after all. The wife wants a wild flower meadow for part of it. The land slopes right to left slightly and away from the house also. Its about 50 metres down to the bottom of the garden with fabulous views across the Beane valley. Yes sort of. Where the previous grass & brush cuttings have not been cleared away and just left in clumps randomly they have then sprouted up from those piles. Its now too difficult to get a mountfield ride on mower over it effectively. Hence me thinking a large Rotivator might chop the clumps up.

Its certainly a 750 round case Bevel. Cannot remember which picture i clipped it from, it might be a green frame. Either way one of the most desirable pieces of engineering ever created.

I've looked at the brush cutters before. They would certainly deal with the stuff that's growing. Its the combination of the growth and the rough clumpy ground where previous mown growth has not been removed. Looks to me like it needs ploughing. Or turning over at least.

I am fortunate to have about 3/4 acre plot on which we have built our house. The land has not had much care for 40 years. it is overgrown with scrub. Where attempts have been made to clear it in the past and not cleared, the mowed scrub has clumped in paces such that it is now very lumpy. Such that a ride on mower would not do the job. Will a petrol Rotivator do the job of both chopping up the scrub and effectively tilling the land. Or do i need something else? All suggestions gratefully received.

The chimney was taped. To be fair the inglenook brickwork, while very good was a potential candidate. But if it were at fault i would see the tiny wispy white traces of the goop. There is none of that on any of the inglenook.

I guess you didn't tape the windows & doors yourself then. The only place i can think of that might have let down my score was the fact that the floor screed did not flow as hard to the edges as i imagined it would and the sole plate being a little suspect. I can imagine that once pressurised, air was getting down past the edges of the screed and out through the sole plate gaps. Either way its costing me no more to heat than i was paying for my old 3 bed semi at less that half the size.

From 3.9 to .5 and you think that needs improvement? I think i must have missed something on mine to end up at 1.4. Which i thought was reasonable actually. The lads from AB did say the windows and door sealing was very good. Wonder where i was still losing air from.

Our new house is a SIPs construction and i am very happy with it. This the only house i have ever had built or will ever build so have nothing to compare it against. It is warm, draught free, straight square and true to dimensions. There have been issues, mostly with Potton Homes but i do not regard these as related to the basic construction method. On the subject of knock down & rebuild, there is a bungalow next door to us that is up for sale @ £500k for 662 square metres. It is non standard construction, single skin walls, tiny and poorly made. The foundations are not up to the job of adding a second floor. All of the people that i have talked to that have come to view it have said that the only thing to do with it would be to remove it and build new. But, the asking price makes this non viable. I guess this is likely to be the case with a lot of houses around the country.

I bought this and am really happy with it. Cannot possibly do the job without something like this. Thermal master, the worlds smallest thermal camera. Uses the phones screen as the display.

Just to throw some more real world figures into the mix. Our new build is not at Passive levels. Even at -5 degrees the other night and the day times either side of that the highest flow temp i have seen is 38 degrees.) And that is to maintain a ground floor at 23 degrees ( dont ask). WC is currently .5, i have played around with this parameter. 46 degrees flow does seem very high.

As Nick has said, they quote based on square metres, mine last Autumn was £2000 for 200sq/m. They did say prior to me committing that they would just stay all day until the score stopped improving if thats what i wanted. Did not quite work out like that on the day as i think they got a little bored. And they were a long way from home. Still, we went from 3.8 prior to 1.4 at the end of the day. The stuff does get onto everything horizontal, i can attest to that. As it happens the spray nozzle connections to the tripods they use were a little leaky and sprayed goop onto 2 walls that required sanding afterwards. It is not visible on light coloured walls but feels horribly tacky if/when you rub past it. Check locations of the tripods if you use A/B for your build..

Depends on your skill level, physical ability to climb heights etc, attitude to risk. Also the size of building and the space/layout of the plot. Loads of other variables i'm sure but a little more detail would be good. I didn't build mine, but i am very experienced at hitting 'buy now' .

Not necessarily so. Depends on the house. For those building a new house there is the cost of a Gas supply to the site. In my case this was going to be £6500 for a 20 to 25 metre run. All of a sudden the 'cheap' gas boiler does not make as much sense.

Mimo is the in the house network i think. Not the link to the outside world.