Post and beam

No, it was the UFH installers. And it was done the 'proper' way as per Nicks description.

They did. A different company installed the heat pump, UVC and most associated pipework and wiring. There was a 3 month gap between the 2 installations. Unfortunately i fell out with the original installers over their attitude to an underestimate of the amount of screed required. They were due to do everything related to the heating install.

I meant furthest from the house of course.

Yes they would be steel. Perhaps i should have said 'woodscrews' not wood screws. Anyway, i have read up on this somewhat since yesterday. Not as rare or new idea as i thought. Now i need to decide whether this idea or old fashioned brick piers to support a deck is the best option. As i said, i need to bring the level up by almost a metre closest to the house.

I have started to get a load of facebook adverts for a type of decking solution that uses what look like 5 foot long wood screws driven into the soil in a square pattern arrangement. As i will need to build up the area behind our new build by as much as a metre to give us a level patio area i wonder if this might be a good solution. So, does anyone recognise what i mean and have you used it or considered this product?

If i knew where and how many i could do this. Do you mean the tundish?

This is the kicker, i have not been bleeding mine every time. It needs topping up , and much too frequently. Which led me to believe it was a leak. No signs of water leaking inside the house and i certainly hope there are no issues between the floors with all the joints. I would expect to see patches on the ceiling if this were the case. If it stops raining i might be able to monitor the unit outside for damp patches.

I have to restore pressure every day or every other day on my installation, by about half a bar to be accurate. Only been in the house for one month and had assumed this was air gradually settling out of the system. Although it never seems to appear anywhere. But, i saw on a facebook page today that someone asked about a very similar scenario and was told that this is a known issue with Vaillant arotherm heat pumps. Mine is a 5Kw version. Lots of Vaillant user on here so my question is, is this a widely known issue?

It all fits together like this. Its a very positive and secure 'click' when it goes together. I have used an adjustable ceiling grill in my house which i hope will allow enough adjustablilty to mean i dont need to use the restrictor rings that come with the distribution box. If you think about it, using those means you need to open the distribution box for every minor configuration tweak. All of your ducting will be connected to the box and i imagined this would be a nightmare.

I have just been through this pain most of this year while installing mine. For the first floor ceilings i had to build a wooden 'bridge', screw the piece to it and then mount between the rafters. In my case the blocks were 85mm tall. I chose that height so that the opening at the bottom was either flush or 1-2mm up inside the ceiling plasterboard. Dont forget the gaskets around the Ubbink part for your airtight seal. They are not cheap. I have 250mm posi joists downstairs so there was more room to play around. Still had to screw in a mounting block for the piece to screw up into though. Most of my orders for bits took about 3 weeks to arrive from Holland. I was not organised enough to plan out and remember all the other bits i needed so multiple orders were needed.

Newly built house this year so an EV charger was mandated but i dont have an EV car. I do have a Vaillant 5Kw though.

Thanks dude, thats sort of what i was thinking. The half price during the cheap periods sound attractive but, like you, not sure its going to work out. For the first couple of weeks here we were getting high 5'S for COP. Last week it fell to high 3's while the temp was about -2. These are reasonable numbers i think considering the short sample period. I will look for an Economy 7 type deal i think. Probably a better fit to low & long.

Having only just moved into our new house we are on the standard Octopus tariff. We run all day 'long and low' with a flow temperature not much above 30 degrees. A little higher for some of last week when the temperature dipped below -2 for a couple of nights. For those of you happy on Octopus Cosy how do you adjust your time periods to best exploit the triple cheap slots during the day? Do you charge to a higher temperature during them for example. Thanks in advance as always keith

Understood. I have a 5kw Vaillant arotherm. Will give this 'wide open' strategy a trial.

Interesting strategy, my design was presented to me with each of the 11 circuits assigned a flow rate. I do not have a buffer, well i dont think so. I have a RED pressure vessel and a white one in my cylinder cupboard. All discussions with the installer made it clear i wanted a single zone downstairs for the UFH. WC and as simple as possible. Thanks for the response by the way.