luz624

@Conor Thanks for the update!! Think I will go with it too. Having our kitchen fitted next month so appreciate the info.

Hello, we have a small part of flat roof, by our side return extension - about 3m x 1.5m (the rest of the extension roof is pitched). It's been built with a 1 degree slope, along the 3m run. I know zinc standing seam requires min 3 degree slope. A contractor suggested we could go with batten roll, which would help to avoid water ingress at the seams. Does anyone think this would be OK, or better to re-do and add a greater slope?

Hello, we have some excess wood fibre and hemp/jute insulation from our project that we are selling on. Collection from West London. 4 packs of SteicoFlex 100mm (575mm x 1220mm) - paid £36.48 per pack of 4 pieces (2.806m2 per pack) - will offer for £27 per pack = £108 4 packs of SteicoFlex 140 (375 x 1220mm) - paid £33.33 per pack of 4 pieces (1.83m2 per pack) - will offer £25 per pack = £136 4 packs of ThermoHemp 60mm (580mm x 1200mm) - paid £79.08 per pack of 10 pieces (6.96m² per pack) - will offer £59 per pack = £236 Let me know if interested.

@Conor hello, can I check how you're finding the Korvo sink, if installed now? We are close to choosing ours.

Hello, we have a solid floor (hardcore, sand blinding, concrete sub-slab - and will be adding insulation, UFH and 100mm polished concrete over). However, we need to 'extend' this area by a small amount - about 7cm (w) x 70cm (l) - to account for where the doorways will be. The other side will be a bedroom suspended floor with carpet, with sliding doors on the bedroom side. We don't want the carpet to show when the sliding doors are closed, hence wanting to extend the polished concrete floor to this area. What is the best way to do this. Instead of hardcore/sand blinding/sub-slab in this very small area, can we lay bricks or concrete blocks in this area, next to the solid floor, and then just put the insulation/UFH over that, and then polished concrete over the whole area?

@nod thanks, we are using clay/lime below for the benefits of those materials (i know it would be easier to use regular plasterboard, so we're not making it easy for ourselves!). Do you know if lime is the same, i.e. no heat?

@nod nice - we are actually planning for Clayworks finish too. But even before we get to that point, we need to do the prep plastering with lime/clay (some base coat plastering, and then plastering over the carrier boards (some wood fibre, and some clayboards) Do you think no heat at all? Even indirect heat, just to get the space a bit warmer. I can see a few overnight temperatures of -1 coming up, which worries me!

@Conor got it - once you give it a real test in the kitchen, I'd love to hear feedback on how you find it

@Conor interested in this sink too. Can I ask if muck gets into that tiny gap behind the ledge?

A number of the plasters we plan to use (lime and clay) require temperatures over 5degrees. Our home currently doesn't have heating. We will have boarded up windows/doors until February. Is there any way we can still plaster internally, with the use of gentle heaters (and possibly a dehumidifier). If so, is there any advice for what type of heaters? And a solution for overnight - we are not living at the site, so I'm not sure what heating solutions can be left on while unattended.

Hello, We are struggling to get a plumber secured at the moment so wanted to ask a few things just to help ensure we're on the right track. We are building a side return extension. There is currently an existing manhole in the side return. We plan to move this to the courtyard area shown in the proposed diagrams. The builders have done the hardcore and DPM and close to pouring the concrete sub slab. Can anyone help advise: - What basic work is involved in moving the manhole (the manhole is just for our house). We believe the pipes for the existing manhole run in a straight line to where the new manhole will go. Do we need to do anything with the existing manhole before we build over it? - Can waste pipes from the kitchen and downstairs bathroom area go above the sub slab? i..e either through or above the insulation (where the UFH pipes will be)? is there any issue with this?

Thanks @markc - that's useful to validate my thinking. I've pinged our BCO to get their view too.

Hello, we are planning for a polished concrete floor. I had a question as to whether the subfloor slab is required or not, as we'll already be laying 100mm of concrete at the top... 100mm polished concrete (poured over UFH pipes) Vapour control layer 200mm EPS insulation DPM 100mm concrete subfloor slab --> Do we need this? If we are pouring concrete as the final layer, is the subslab needed? Hardcore

The external walls are essentially at the front of the property (Victorian terrace), the W.C./shower area, and the extension where the kitchen area is. The rest of the walls are party walls with neighbours. My husband thinks a slimline MVHR unit could be wall mounted where I've marked in green (and then the planned kitchen units pushed in a little). And the unit either boxed into a kitchen cupboard, or a false wall type thing added with a concealed door for maintenance. The roof here will be a pitched roof, but I'm unsure how the ducting would fit into this (apologies again - all so new to me!) Could the ducting run through the rafters/insulation.... or would we need a separate service void...? Sorry if that's a stupid question

Thank you all for the replies. I'll take a look at some of the links shared and see if they could be suitable. @Nickfromwales Do you mind if I DM you with the plans? Would appreciate if you have any thoughts!