Ambaz79

a few soluitons I have now. Go over the exhisting tiles. 1, Put something over the tiles to create a fall into the drain ( some sort of concrete or something to create the fall) 2, Put EPDM over this so the water now falls towards the drain and cut out the EPDM at the drain. 3, Tile over this again leaving a passage in the adhesive where the water can get to the drain. Or use pedastals to put the tiles on so there is a clear way for the water to get to the drain. Rip out old tiles 1, Keep drain where it is but take off all the tiles 2, using plywood or OSB to create a fall towards the drain. I could use tapere wood thats used to create a fall on flat roofs and then put the OSB ontop of this. 3, tile over this and create a level floor. Where the door and Windows are they are fitted on a peice of timber so they are already around 40mm higher then the tiled floor. So if I raised the level outside it should not be a problem.

I know roughly where the water is leaking from. its on either side of the drain where the water sits as there is not enough of a drop towards the drain. If I did just treat this as a flat roof and for example install a EPDM Rubber Roofing System ontop of the tile and cut out the drains. Would this be ok first of all to be fitted onto the tiles that are already there? Secondly could we walk on this. This is a very low traffic area as you can imagine. I go out every now and then but normally without shoes on. Also I dont think the upstands are an issue as there is no leaving around the edges of the balcony.

Hi @oliwoodings The builder that did this has gone now. So it's on me to get sorted. You see the other problem I don't want is the water sitting under the tiles. Then the builder did the floor he first painted a black Waterproof paint and then put mesh down and then painted on it again. This was meant to make the floor water proof. I think even now the water goes through the grout and then sits on the black waterproof coat and the once enough water is there it makes its way down. Is there another flooring that I could do her either on top or redoing the whole thing.

Hi @Mr Punter thank you 👍 Water can't run out the front as we are a block higher on the front wall. I think the water is going through the grout and then leaking. Maybe very tiny cracks in grout due to the external tempreture causing expansion etc. Is there anyway to seal the tiles and make the grout water proof. Also can I just finish the floor with gpr?

Hello, We have built a balcony that is above out Living room. Basically we have cerated the balcony by setting back the bedroom wall by around 1.2M. We have then tiled the floor however we are still getting water leaking through the living room ceiling. When the wind blows towards the house thats really only when water gets into the balcony and then leaks. We do have a drain but its really of no use as the water does not really get to a level where is can move towards the drain. Mostly we get very shallow pools of water on either side of the drain and then drips down onto the living room ceiling. Whats the best way to either waterproof the tiles so it 100% stops the water or redo the flooring to become 100% waterproof. Needs to be something that is ok with the sun too as we are south facing. Thanks in advance.

Hi @Redbeard builder gone (fired) long ago. This is silicon render and I have been told we can re-render on top again. We have rendered on blocks. If I be honest I am not confident any company can render with a quality finish over a large area without showing inperfections. I'm sure it would be much better then it is now though.

Hi All Just finishing off a our build and we have really been let down by the Builders who did not render the house properly. Windows and corners do not have trims and the render shows allot of trowel marks where the scaffolding was. So now we have a choice to either re-render the whole house or look to use another material like brick tiles to cover the old render. I'm just interested to see what other way we can finish the outside of the house and bring some more modern charactor. I do like some of the Tony Holt style designs where they use wood brick slips and render. Not sure how easy or hard it would be to implement design changes like this now.

Forgot to mention I've got a 100L buffer tank.

If I reduced the flow temp to maybe 37 or 38 then would we expect a cycle less often. Ideally would like it to run more constant as we have the UFH in thin layer of screed at around 60-70mm and this means it does not retain much heat for long. Slab just about warms up and then a cycle where it cools the slab down again due to the UFH still running. Should the UFH actually still be running during a cycle. I do notice the supply to manifold does get cool during cycle.

Thought I would start a new topic as my last post focused on my dhw tank loosing heat very fast. Solved by the members here and a bit of detective work. On another subject I'm noticing my hp is cycling around twice an hour. Running in weather compensation mode with the following. Low is 40 Degree Flow at -1 Degree outside High is 25 Degree Flow at 15 Degrees outside External thermostats in every zone set to 30 degrees and rooms hit around 20-21 degrees. Flow on manifold is slightly higher then the designed flow at around 1L per minute to around 1.5l. I've tried to increase flow to 3L but it's still cycling. Outside tempreture is currently - 2 in Leicester so we expecting it to run more without having to shut down. Is there anything I could change or look at to reduce this cycling.

Turns out my son was going for a shower for over 20 minutes after school. This was emptying the tank. I've kept the Circulating Pump off and might just remove it. I've set the tank to warn once at night and once in the day. Also restricted my sons shower to less than 10 minutes. Not sure this is being fully followed though! We are getting through 24 hours with just 2 cylinder head ups. Thanks for all your help on this.

Yes there is that is lower down the tank. You might just be able to see a small wire going into the tank.

Looks like there is some other problem. Circulating Pump been off all day. Left at 8am with water temp at 49 degrees. Target temp was set to 48 degrees. My son went for a 10 minutes shower at 4.30pm and then we have used it for washing up after dinner at 8pm 5 minutes into washing up the water went cold meaning no hot water in cylinder. I would expect a 320L tank to do allot more then this on a single charge. I've had to change the ashp dhw to come on on a 10 degree temp drop and left it to be constantly on. Could it be the Cylinder is not fully filled up. I thought it could be loosing water somehow but then thought we didn't use the water all day and water has remained hot. But lost with this now.

Looks like there is some other problem. Circulating Pump been off all day. Left at 8am with water temp at 49 degrees. Target temp was set to 48 degrees. My son went for a 10 minutes shower at 4.30pm and then we have used it for washing up after dinner at 8pm 5 minutes into washing up the water went cold meaning no hot water in cylinder. I would expect a 320L tank to do allot more then this on a single charge. I've had to change the ashp dhw to come on on a 10 degree temp drop and left it to be constantly on. Could it be the Cylinder is not fully filled up. I thought it could be loosing water somehow but then thought we didn't use the water all day and water has remained hot. But lost with this now.