richo106

@Nickfromwales I would love to know what step 2 is

I thought i would unscrew all the actuators to see if that would make a difference (not expecting it to) 6.55pm - temp in and out was 21deg (heating been off 3 hours) 7.01pm - temp in was 25 and temp out 21 - also changed over temp gauge to prove working 7.05pm - 23 deg in and out 8pm - 25 deg in and out. For ref the GF manifold temp in 25 deg and and temp out 22 deg Saturday I am going to refill all FF loops just to ensure there is no air in there, once again i am not expecting this to make much difference as there is visible flow on the flow meters (which changes when GF manifold off) but just ticks another thing off

Ok that’s great thank you, guessing this isn’t going to fix all my issues though 😂😂

Are these ok to leave ‘open’ then I am guessing. Do I need to manually purge each loop or if I have air locks will the auto air vents clear it all over a period of time?

They were both quite tight I have done that, tightened them and then I have backed them off 720 deg

I am not sure regarding the flow/return temps before any heat hit it sorry I have just check the flow temps again and no change just the 1 deg diff Please find attached pic of the air vent, to be honest i have to google to see what you meant by that! I have not touched it so any advice what to try I am all ears

Any advice what to try next would be great or what to look out for. If i installed another pump would this improve flow rates on both manifolds? could i even do this? (apologies terrible plumbing knowledge!) Another idea is that i know i turn the heating off between 4 -7 (cosy tariff and expensive period!) could i leave FF running? Sorry all the questions just very determined to hopefully get to the bottom of it one way or another

Update (1) My heating come back on at 7pm (is this cost effective do you think switching it off for the 3 hours?) 7.30pm All FF manifolds flow rate approx 2 on all of them, 25 deg in and 24 out 7.30pm I turned down all GF thermostats so no call for heating. ASHP still running and pump running 7.35pm the flow indicators on my GF were still showing flow even though all call for heat was off, i turned off isolation valve on manifold. All flow rate indicators shot up to show no flow FF manifold flows rates immediately shot up all to around 3 and a couple closer to 4 8pm - flow rates still the higher values - 25 deg in and 24 deg out How long would you leave it like this to see if it actually makes a difference? Would this increased flow make a difference? I have attached a picture of my pump set up, green arrow is to GF manifold approx 4m of pipe and red arrow is FF manifold approx 9m of pipe

I apologies for these daft questions but i can borrow an IR gun from work, what areas should be checking with this? Just floor temps? Or the pipes also? I am going to ask the plumber if he did this, how can i do this now just to ensure there is no air lock? Is it possible to do? I have 2 x manifolds but one common pump, would turning GF off prove that another pump may help or not? Can't seem to get it above 20 deg with cold floors though, tiles feel very cold. Once i shut the doors the temp decreases through the night. I am guessing this doesn't help that i turn my heating off 4 - 7 due to high energy costs

Could i do this by turn the thermostats off?

I will do, in an ideal scenario what will having to FF? My concern is the delta T temps are the same so no heat transfer

yes 16mm Thermrite

This is not my install BTW, i have posi joists. Which were lots of fun threading all the pipe through! Installed the pipes but the guy setting it up filled them with water...he did say they filled up nice and easily with water Is this something i can do now just to ensure its ok?

I installed the plates, i used lots of small screws with large heads so contact with the surface is not a too big of concern for me (at the minute)

Hi John These seems interesting i will try this, by decreasing the flow downstairs will that automatically send more heat upstairs (apologies for the very daft question) I wanted to run it constantly off the weather compensation curve but the GF was getting too hot so put a limiting temp in the thermostats (23.5). I didn't want to knock the weather comp temp down as in my head it would only decrease the temp upstairs further

Yes thermostat, i have a thermostat for each room (so 11 in total)

That was the only picture i had of the pipes i could find, the pipes are securely fixed in metal spreader like the pic attached (just an example of how mine is) and yes way passed the stage of accessing them unfortunately I have tired to unscrew the flow controllers on the manifold and it didnt seem to make much difference ( i even unscrewed it too far and it came off...much to the amusement of the wife while water was spurting out!) I have attached the picture of the manifold with the current flow rates

Hi Mike There is 2 manifolds, one upstairs and one downstairs. There is just 1 pump that is common to both (see attached) Yes all loops have individual loop actuators My gut feeling is there is not enough UFH pipework to make a difference temperature as the person who did my heat calcs said upstairs heating wasn't required, I just put some pipes in anyway on the screw from below type plates (average of 200 centres...see attached pic) Anything that i could do to help would be amazing but at the minute not holding much hope out Many Thanks

Just to add I have a pretty air tight house and well insulated house. I also have MVHR

Hi All I have UFH upstairs and downstairs, downstairs in a concrete slab and upstairs in aluminium spreader plates below 22mm T&G floorboards. I have an ASHP with 100L buffer. I have been running the ASHP hot water and heating in line with the octopus cosy tariff (ticks over 24/7 apart from the 3 hour expensive period) The GF seems to be working well and the floor warms up nicely and all the rooms easily reach the temperature but the upstairs rooms are struggling to keep up and often feel cold especially the bathrooms (cold floor and toilet seat!) usually the temperature in is the same temp out on the u/s manifold which is worrying as it shows hardly any (if any) heat transfer is happening I wish I installed the low profile screed system but it’s too late now obviously and I also put 100mm insulation between floors which is better for sound but not for heating i currently run the ASHP on the weather compensation curve which seems to work ok for downstairs (I have set a upper limit of 23.5 which is hits quite regularly so knocks it off) I had upstairs set at 20.5 but just upped these to 23.5 to see if it makes a difference but not convinced it will at all! what other options is there to try? Could I alter the weather comp curve but that would just click the downstairs off more but suppose the water temp would be higher upstairs? through the day rooms the upstairs temp stay ok due to doors being opened but when the kids go to bed about 7 and their doors are shut it cools down. Will electric towel rails make much of a difference in the bathrooms at all? any ideas/suggestions on what to try greatly appreciated! Electric heaters is my last resort.

Hi All We are going to be designing and hopefully doing our driveway in the next month or so. We are going to go block paving and now we are just looking at lighting as its very dark on my driveway area One option we were looking at is the drive over spot lights, has any body got these and happy with them? Or would a bollard type light be better? Could any recommend any driveway lights they have used at all? Speaking to the driveway guy (not an electrician) as there is soft dig either side of the edge of my driveway he said on some previous jobs the electrician has ran SWA between the lights in a wiska JB with magic gel and then flexed out the light. Then buried the JB and cables adjacent to the light in the driveway. Is this the standard way of doing it? best install method? Any advice/information greatly appreciated on this as obviously its not an easy/cheap fix if you want to change it Many Thanks

Meant to add I have a stud wall below that is fixed to the underside of the joists Will this help at all? Sorry for the spam, just want to make sure it’s right

Hi All I just thought I would add to this post as my bath will be going in very shortly. The bath hasn’t got legs but has a continuous 20mm edge all the way round (see pic) We will tiling completely underneath it so complete make up will be 75x225mm posi joists at 400 centres, 22mm T&G floorboards, plywood, 600 x 1200 tiles. I am overly cautious with things like this, would it be worth getting a structural engineers advice on this? Or will it be fine? I have attached a picture of below, if anyone can suggest best way to reinforce the floor it would be very much appreciated. The bath actually sits inside the downstairs toilet so I can lose a bit of ceiling height if it would help with support etc. Any help or advice would be very much appreciated

Hi All As you can probably tell from my previous post I am now in full planning mode for my new driveway I have attached a picture of driveway we (the mrs) would love, I am electrician by trade so something i can be hands on with. We are having block paving very similar to the ones pictured (Plaspave sorrento 60mm thick) However I could really do with some advice/input on how to actually achieve this, in terms of block paving edging layout? Would you lay the LED strip on the underside or horizontally under the lip and what would be the best to fix it? As access looks like it could be tricky! I don't want the edging to be too high due to my levels and also so cars don't hit it if they pull over it etc.. Anything to help me on this would be amazing, many thanks