richo106

Another option I have thought about it is to create a sleeper planter all the way down the edge to also act as a retaining wall (obviously not on the path bit, just thinking a single sleeper wall) Would this work ok? Would it be best to remove all the slab on edge first? I think so but just wanted other peoples opinions Many Thanks

That block concrete wall looks a good option! I can put my hand to most things but one thing I am complete novice in is landscaping/outdoor areas etc... So if I remove the slab on edges and replace with this block walling, would I need to create a solid concrete/base for this wall to start on I am guessing? If so how thick would the foundations need to be? I would do it 250mm wide for example to match these https://ag.uk.com/outside-rooms/products/garden-walling/bayfield/ Also I know it says it could act as a retaining wall but without mortar how would to the earth behind not just push the wall over? Thanks again

Yes that makes sense I just not sure what to do replace the slab on edge with One option I thought was upright sleepers, guessing these would need to be concreted in? Would this move forward over time like slab on edge? also concious I don’t want to encroach too much the path Many Thanks

Hi All I am have finally moved onto my driveway, after going round in circles are few times we have finally decided to go with block paving (plaspave sorrento) The main issue i have now is that the fence the driveway and path will finish onto is not straight forward and not that keen on how it looks, I don't want to spend all this money on a nice new drive and have a 'dodgy' looking edge. I have attached a few pictures to show this edge, there is currently slab on edge and a fence above (due to ground level of my neighbours) majority of these slab on edges are being pushed over so will need straightening up anyway. And nothing to stop this just happening again The red area is the driveway and can see where the path will be between my garage and fence What is alternative options to these slab on edges? I will greatly appreciated any suggestions/opinions/information on this topic

Hi All I've been putting this off for a while but its finally time to try and get my new (heavy) bath upstairs. My bath is 180kg (unpackaged) and is 760 x 1800mm but rectangular (no rounded edges) https://www.lussostone.com/products/ethos-freestanding-stone-bath-1800mm I have also attached a couple of pictures of my stairs to try and help, the shortest width of my stairs is 805 (from inside post to inside riser) I have a few strong mates I could ask, would 4 of us manage to get it upstairs just by lifting? I am open to any ideas/suggestions that would help with getting the bath upstairs! Have to got any shape/size of wood cut to act as runners etc.. Any help would be very much appreciated as my bathroom fitter is coming in 3/4 weeks so starting to panic abit now!

Thank you again for the replies, with a lot of discussions over the weekend and marking things out on the floor we have decided to go with a 1700 x 800 tray Then glass wise it will be 1200 down the side (giving us a 500 opening) and 800 at the end Many Thanks

Would people recommend a flappy door rather than fixed glass? Cheers

Thank you all for the replies, this has certainly left me wondering how to do mine I have uploaded my bathroom layout, i have bought everything apart from the shower tray (going for the kudos 2) just need to decide on size This is going to be the kids bathroom so conscious they wont be as careful as us, I will be tiling both wall and floor I am not keep on the flappy doors if i am honest, what would you guys do shower size/glass enclosure wise if this was yours? Many Thanks

Hi @Nickfromwales Thanks for the reply, I won't be able to move the extract point within the enclosure Another option I am thinking is to leave a small gap between the ceiling and glass, in your opinion what is a reasonable gap? Thanks again

Hi All I am just designing the final details for my bathroom, we are having a 800 x 1600 shower enclosure. We don't want a flappy door but just a 400 gap to walk through so thinking 1200 glass one side and 800 on the end. However the mrs wants floor to ceiling glass rather the kits offline which are around 2m tall. With the enclosure having a permanent opening would there be any condensation/extraction issues? I have MVHR in the house Please see pic of extract location within the bathroom Any advice/opinions welcome Many Thanks

Hi All I have a hot water cylinder with a hot water recirc pump, this pump has been working perfectly but last week I noticed it is noisy when it runs now. I think it maybe air in the system (no idea how it got in there) On the video when I close the valve on the return leg the pump noise goes and runs smooth does this point to air in the hot water system? What is the best way to get rid of the air? Any advice or information greatly appreciated on this. Many Thanks IMG_9261.mov

This is the exact one I have picked as a back up, are you pleased with it? As pleased as you can be with a shower tray anyway

Hi All I am in need of some help if possible. Basically I am installing a new bathroom in my house and I am ready to order the materials for it and was just looking at the wastes etc.. But when i measured it out the waste for my shower falls perfectly on a joist. Please see attached photo, green lines being the shower and the red rectangle being the waste that is needed (if I go with that shower) The posi joists are PS9, 75x225mm @ 400 centres. My question is do I simply just have to a pick a different shower tray with waste that will fit between my joists? Or is there a way to 'engineer' this out so the top section of the posi joist can be removed to make way for my waste?(my preferred option as this with match all the other bathroom items) Any advice/information on this will be greatly appreciated, When looking on the internet its not looking hopeful i can touch my posi joists but would love to get a definitive answer Many Thanks

Hi All I have a Vent Axia Sentinel MVHR unit that is housed in the loft, this was only commissioned just over a year ago. For the last few weeks/month my MVHR has been making a lot more noise. Like a motor/fan bearing rattle sound. I will attach a short video of the noise I have changed the filters 6 monthly, is there anything I can do to investigate/rectify the noise/fault? Any ideas or suggestions greatly appreciated MVHR - Noise.MOV

It already has 22mm T & G chipboard floorboard above, all the floor will be tiled and then bath sat on the tiles I will put some extra noggins and strongback's in like suggested Thanks again

My joists are already in place so i can't span them block to block like my current ones. But the ceilings below are not installed so i can anything below to secure/improve them

Hi All I am just designing my main bathroom and we have found a freestanding bath we like. One concern I have is the weight of it! The bath is 180kg, capacity to overflow is 400L and guessing got the allow for 2 adults (worst case) so quite a lot of weight The bath will definitely site on 4 joists and more likely 5 joists (see attached layout) They are posi joists at 400 centres, 75x225mm Is this weight spread over those joists anything to worry about? If so how would i check/confirm this? Many Thanks

Hi We currently have a quooker tap installed and we love it much more than we thought to be honest I am now looking at adding the quooker cube to add chilled filter water and sparkling water I was just wondering if any one on BH has a cube and what their opinion would be on it? Is it worth the money? Many Thanks

Good Morning All I had my patio installed back end of last year and wanted my patio level with the kitchen floor so when I open my bi folds its level (ish), in my naivety and obviously the oversight of the installer nothing was said regarding levels/DPC etc and now I've looked further into this its not right with it being nowhere near the 150mm below required . BC have been round and to be honest it poked his head out and just said nice job and moved. So it's all been signed off Please see attached pictures However I want to make sure I attempt to rectify this before it could possibly cause me issues down the line. The main area that I have any kind of splash up the wall in the rain is the chimney due to it dripping off the top Obviously in hindsight my blues/DPC level would be 2 courses up, I am really struggling with how to rectify this and not look bodged! I don't really want a 150mm deep trench around house So any expert ideas/advice would be amazing on this Is there some kind of render I could put externally? We like the look of this to finish it off anyway but don't know if this could kill 2 birds? Could I take the first row off and install a DPC up the wall? The garage is fine but as these are existing blues they need tidying up and was waiting to see what I did with the rest Many Thanks

Unfortunately its joisted the same the other side, as this was my first build project joist locations wasn't considered and i just accepted the posi drawing that was given. Obviously this is just one of the many lessons learnt throughout the build. My idea was to install a drain connector flush with the floorboards - https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-push-fit-single-socket-drain-connector-black-110mm/4255V?tc=OT2&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD8IdPyBDb62AI3EMbaFBjKf8DRXf&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvcHl257rjAMVdZJoCR3srxruEAQYAiABEgIW8vD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Then a space saving swan neck pan connector - https://www.snhtradecentre.co.uk/product/mcalpine-90-degree-space-saving-pan-connector-wc-conq/ Will this allow me to get the toilet back to the level of the joist or so do you think? Please my dodgy drawing below, I am hoping my green line will be the line of the tiled wall? Is this doable? Certainly any other ways to do this would be greatly appreciated

That's the posi joist below

Didn't attached picture!

Yes all walls of the bathroom are breeze block, certainly no need to apologies I left this important detail out!

One thing I could really do with some advice on is which would be the best toilet type to lose as little of the room as possible. I am more concerned about the level of the tiled wall, i could do with the finished wall as close to the breeze block as possible I have attached a photo below, due the position of my joists the centre of toilet waste is around 160mm into the room. Would it be best to have a closed coupled back to the wall or wall hung? https://www.lussostone.com/toilets-c5/senza-close-coupled-rimless-toilet-with-soft-close-seat-p4457 https://www.lussostone.com/toilets-c5/senza-back-to-wall-rimless-toilet-with-concealed-cistern-and-brushed-stainless-flush-plate-p5060 https://www.lussostone.com/toilets-c5/senza-wall-hung-rimless-toilet-with-concealed-cistern-frame-and-brushed-stainless-flush-plate-p5063 These are my options but i can't for the life of me work out which will be best! Any advice on this question would be amazing

Hi all, thank you all for your feedback been very useful! In terms of situation its completely empty, floorboards down, plastered ceiling and spots, breeze block walls. The biggest issue for me is trying to dodge the posi joists with the wastes! I have attached my marked up plan which shows Niches (in red), shower valves (blue cross) Towel rail (green - just next to where door opens to), Heated mirror (yellow) I am not a fan of shower doors so want 2 fixed pieces of glass in place (black) I don't need specific extraction as have MVHR installed. We have a freestanding bath in our en-suite but as this will be primarily our kids bathroom we wanted the bath a tight fit, we are going for a rectangle freestanding bath - https://www.lussostone.com/stone-resin-baths-c1/ethos-freestanding-stone-bath-1800mm-p309 Like the look of yours @bungledlow, but have a couple of bad experiences with wet rooms albeit being poor install related issues! Yes good point on storage, we will be having a vanity unit but only half shelving type