richo106

Thanks again @JohnMo some good ideas and things to look at! 1. This is an option but this my last resort at the minute especially as the main rooms I want to increase heat is the bathrooms 2. I actually have actuators on all the downstairs loops, controlled off neostat thermostats in the 4 areas. The hysteresis is currently 1 deg but think it can be changed to 0.5 4. No I have not tried this, I have increased the flow rates on the FF but not decreased the GF I think my next step is to change the WC curve to try and suit FF and then reduce GF flow rates and alter thermostats to 0.5deg differential see if I can control it that way I am just struggling on what temperature to set my curve, currently it’s 35deg @ 0 and 20 @ 15 degrees ( I think) Should I just change it to 45 degrees @ 0 and go from there? Any ideas would be very helpful thanks again

Hi @JohnMo Thanks very much for your reply and the solution regarding a separate manifold pump with blending valve makes sense to me. So just my benefit/understanding the only option is the to set the temperature of the blending valve so GF would have to run off fixed temp? If the temp was lower than the temp set on the blending valve i am guessing this would just not add any cold etc. so i could use the blending valve as a limiter? As i would heating my water to upto 45 deg and then effectively cooling half of it on purpose would this cost a lot more to run? Its frustrating as the higher temp is only needed when its probably colder than 5 deg outside so this is why I still need some sort of WC control

I have been having a play with heating over the last week or so, instead of just changing my water temp to 35 deg I changed my weather comp curve so at 5 deg it was 35 deg. This just caused my downstairs to over heat really, when it warmed up it went too hot and then cooled down again rather than a nice constant temp I didn't see much improvement in FF either, only left it for 24 hours due to being too warm downstairs I have been doing some more reading and think i have come to the conclusion that the water temp needs to be at 45 deg to actually produce enough heat output on the plates. For info i have a 12kW Panosonic Aquarea monobloc Its frustrating as the weather comp how i have it set now works perfectly for downstairs (even the mrs is happy!) but upstairs heating is non existent. I have a common 100L buffer tank and common pump for both GF & FF UFH, one (maybe daft) idea i have is to set my weather comp to 45 deg (not sure what other numbers yet haha) and then install a seperate cold water blending valve and pump to GF manifold - would this work you think? I am complete novice when it comes to this so please any ideas/info would be very grateful! In an ideal world i need my FF temp 45 and GF working off the weather comp like it is now not sure that is possible though COP data: Heating (A7/W35): 12.00 kW | COP: 4.80 Heating (A7/W55): 12.00 kW | COP: 3.05 Heating (A–7/W35): 12.00 kW | COP: 2.82 Heating (A–7/W55): 12.00 kW | COP: 2.00 Kind Regards

Hi All I have a Vent Axia Sentinel MVHR, it is only 2 years old but has a very noisy fan! I have managed to get a replacement fan from Vent Axia (see pic) but as over a year old they wouldn't repair it. The noise is now driving me mad so want to get this replaced ASAP Please see attached picture my install in the loft, do all 4 solid ducting inlet/outlets need to be removed? Could it this repair be done just by taking the side off? I am hoping its pretty obvious which fan it is when i take the covers off etc.. I am electrician by trade, how long would this repair hope to take if all goes well? Would it matter if the house doesnt run for MVHR for a day or 2 if I have to do it in evenings? Any advice/information on this would be very helpful Kind Regards

Hi All We are now having the first cold snap since starting this thread. And unfortunately my daughter’s bedroom with door shut is Currently 17.5 degrees! The only thing I have changed so far from last year is not stopped the heating during the expensive period (16.00 - 19.00) I think it’s pretty it’s the installation/lack of pipes that’s the main reason but I now just trying to thinks of ways to help it a little I might change my weather comp to 35 deg at 0 deg (currently -3 or -5 can’t remember exactly ) I will turn my pump to powerful mode to increase l/min on the manifolds is it worth increasing the temperature passed 35 deg or would then it become inefficient? any other ideals would be very grateful

Right after looking on the internet My pump was on proportional power - medium (flashing green) I have now changed this to constant power - highest power (constant orange)

I just turned my GF manifold off and checked the flow rates of the FF one Basically when the downstairs is on its looking approx 24/25 When the downstairs is off its about 35 Is that what people would expect? I will look into the pump settings shorty

Yes I will certainly try 24/7 running, will set this up tonight to see how I go on for the next few days. Will try and monitor temp and energy consumption best I can but not too cold at the minute If this doesn’t make anything difference I’ll defo look at increasing the flow rate, somehow splitting the circuits and installing an additional pump

Yes I can understand the low dT, I checked the temps again this morning and loops ranged between 1-1.8 deg loss, but IR camera was bouncing around a little so hard to be super accurate I will turn off the GF manifold again so the the pump just feeds the FF to see what flow rates I can achieve per loop. currently the ASHP feeds a buffer tank and then pumped from there to both manifolds using a single pump. one thing that I want to try is not shutting my heating off during 4-7 during the expensive period to see if this makes any difference at all. I’ll just run my heating 24/7 on weather comp with thermostats set at 23.5 to stop overheating. do you think this will make much difference cost wise? It takes a large amount of energy to reheat the floors and buffer tank when it heats back up at 7 so hopefully it won’t be too much difference any thoughts on this would be helpful

Did you manage to anything to improve it? Or just manage with it?

Thanks @John Carroll Currently the 11 loops on the manifold have an average flow rate of approx of 2l/m so would that mean total flow rate of approx 22LPM. Is there anything that can be done to increase the dT at all? Guessing that’s to do with install etc Is it as ‘simple’ as splitting the GF and FF circuits and have a pump for each? If the new/separate pump increases flow rate to approx 3 for example. Or would it be better to aim for 4? When I turned the GF Monifold off previously the flow rates did increase to around 3 but even we some tweaking on the flow rate indicators I couldn’t get them To increase passed that

At 9pm I upped my water temp to 35 deg At 11pm I checked the flow and return temps on my FF manifold, average in was 32deg and return 31deg. So averaging around 1 deg heat loss My bathroom tiled floor has increased from 20.5deg to 21 deg from 7pm to 11pm I am not sure where to go next

Update I have borrowed an IR camera to check flow and return temps of the FF manifold The heating turned on at 7pm I have recorded the temps at 7.15pm and 7.45pm, please see attached picture to show my findings There is definitely heat loss but not much I have also IR camera'd the carpeted floor and can see the heat lines, this was around 8pm and the temp of the heat was around 20.2 deg and the 'cold bit' was 19.6 deg There was no of any heat lines on the tiled floor in the bathrooms yet (there is downstairs but appreciate the floor make up is different) For this shows the water is getting round the loops at least One thought i have now is to take it off weather compensation curve and set the water temp to 35 deg, this will make the GF 'bounce off' the thermostats though. I am not sure this will make enough difference on the freezing cold days upstairs though Any other thoughts/ideas on my findings today would be grateful, many thanks