richo106

Hi All Some more advice needed if possible We have just ordered a wendy house but it looks like it has undercoat of some sort on it (looks golden/browny colour) .The playhouse is supplied with a dip treated base coat preservative ready for you to top coat immediately after installation, this could be wood paint or stain. https://www.robertdyas.co.uk/shire-hatter-s-house-playhouse?&gPromoCode=FREEDEL30 I am looking to use Cuprinol Garden Shades (possibly First Leaves, taupe colour) would the wendy house need a primer before being painted? e.g Zinsser 1-2-3. This house will be sat on a decking base, most likely to be pressure treated can this be painted direct or undercoat needed? Any help/advice on this would be very much appreciated

https://www.sheds.co.uk/quick-jack-wooden-base-elevating-kit.html?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22129841503&gbraid=0AAAAADqMalMgl92fYVXseVWDQYFRylRYV&gclid=Cj0KCQjwj47OBhCmARIsAF5wUEFGKUgJr-xAY7-DCnAmiP4dDNYq2zhAk5xcVFp9KQWlh08-9cIIpIUaAm0pEALw_wcB

Hi All I am getting my girls a wendy house for their birthdays (In May) and i could do with some advice on what base to do. It will be going on uneven grassed area https://www.robertdyas.co.uk/shire-hatter-s-house-playhouse?&gPromoCode=FREEDEL30 - somehow i've been roped into getting this one! I thought maybe a decked base so could have a small area in front of the house etc.. or hardcore and gravel? Any ideas and/or advice greatly appreciated Many Thanks

I am not doing a new build, i had some major renovations and extensions couple of years ago and now finally getting round to doing some externals Cheers

Hi All I am in the early stages of doing my driveway and we are looking at options of if we want to install electric gates etc.. I have put ducting around the drive and house so cabling is not an issue One thing I am struggling to get a definite answer on is distance from the road the gate has to be, this will determine if this is suitable for mine driveway and then when the visability splays Will I be able to do this under permitted development and will it need planning. I have made initial contact with my council but as always its very slow progress at the minute Has anyone installed gates (over 1m) and what regs/guidelines did they follow? I even had an electric gate company out and they didn't know (which didnt fill me with confidence!) Any information/advice appreciated on this topic Many Thanks

Hi All Work on driveway will be continuing in the next couple of weeks all being well, i have just designed where I want/need cable ducting and pits etc... It's looking like there will 4 cable pits fall in the lawn (well mud currently but will be grassed) and one drain pit in the grass, could anyone recommend any duct/drain cover pits that can have grass in them to hide the covers? Any ideas/information appreciated Many Thanks

Thanks again @JohnMo some good ideas and things to look at! 1. This is an option but this my last resort at the minute especially as the main rooms I want to increase heat is the bathrooms 2. I actually have actuators on all the downstairs loops, controlled off neostat thermostats in the 4 areas. The hysteresis is currently 1 deg but think it can be changed to 0.5 4. No I have not tried this, I have increased the flow rates on the FF but not decreased the GF I think my next step is to change the WC curve to try and suit FF and then reduce GF flow rates and alter thermostats to 0.5deg differential see if I can control it that way I am just struggling on what temperature to set my curve, currently it’s 35deg @ 0 and 20 @ 15 degrees ( I think) Should I just change it to 45 degrees @ 0 and go from there? Any ideas would be very helpful thanks again

Hi @JohnMo Thanks very much for your reply and the solution regarding a separate manifold pump with blending valve makes sense to me. So just my benefit/understanding the only option is the to set the temperature of the blending valve so GF would have to run off fixed temp? If the temp was lower than the temp set on the blending valve i am guessing this would just not add any cold etc. so i could use the blending valve as a limiter? As i would heating my water to upto 45 deg and then effectively cooling half of it on purpose would this cost a lot more to run? Its frustrating as the higher temp is only needed when its probably colder than 5 deg outside so this is why I still need some sort of WC control

I have been having a play with heating over the last week or so, instead of just changing my water temp to 35 deg I changed my weather comp curve so at 5 deg it was 35 deg. This just caused my downstairs to over heat really, when it warmed up it went too hot and then cooled down again rather than a nice constant temp I didn't see much improvement in FF either, only left it for 24 hours due to being too warm downstairs I have been doing some more reading and think i have come to the conclusion that the water temp needs to be at 45 deg to actually produce enough heat output on the plates. For info i have a 12kW Panosonic Aquarea monobloc Its frustrating as the weather comp how i have it set now works perfectly for downstairs (even the mrs is happy!) but upstairs heating is non existent. I have a common 100L buffer tank and common pump for both GF & FF UFH, one (maybe daft) idea i have is to set my weather comp to 45 deg (not sure what other numbers yet haha) and then install a seperate cold water blending valve and pump to GF manifold - would this work you think? I am complete novice when it comes to this so please any ideas/info would be very grateful! In an ideal world i need my FF temp 45 and GF working off the weather comp like it is now not sure that is possible though COP data: Heating (A7/W35): 12.00 kW | COP: 4.80 Heating (A7/W55): 12.00 kW | COP: 3.05 Heating (A–7/W35): 12.00 kW | COP: 2.82 Heating (A–7/W55): 12.00 kW | COP: 2.00 Kind Regards

Hi All I have a Vent Axia Sentinel MVHR, it is only 2 years old but has a very noisy fan! I have managed to get a replacement fan from Vent Axia (see pic) but as over a year old they wouldn't repair it. The noise is now driving me mad so want to get this replaced ASAP Please see attached picture my install in the loft, do all 4 solid ducting inlet/outlets need to be removed? Could it this repair be done just by taking the side off? I am hoping its pretty obvious which fan it is when i take the covers off etc.. I am electrician by trade, how long would this repair hope to take if all goes well? Would it matter if the house doesnt run for MVHR for a day or 2 if I have to do it in evenings? Any advice/information on this would be very helpful Kind Regards

Hi All We are now having the first cold snap since starting this thread. And unfortunately my daughter’s bedroom with door shut is Currently 17.5 degrees! The only thing I have changed so far from last year is not stopped the heating during the expensive period (16.00 - 19.00) I think it’s pretty it’s the installation/lack of pipes that’s the main reason but I now just trying to thinks of ways to help it a little I might change my weather comp to 35 deg at 0 deg (currently -3 or -5 can’t remember exactly ) I will turn my pump to powerful mode to increase l/min on the manifolds is it worth increasing the temperature passed 35 deg or would then it become inefficient? any other ideals would be very grateful

Right after looking on the internet My pump was on proportional power - medium (flashing green) I have now changed this to constant power - highest power (constant orange)

I just turned my GF manifold off and checked the flow rates of the FF one Basically when the downstairs is on its looking approx 24/25 When the downstairs is off its about 35 Is that what people would expect? I will look into the pump settings shorty