Vera16

Ouch! There are some great threads on there. Seems to be back up and running now. Phew.

Just tried searching an old topic and received an error message. Anyone know what happened to it?

Bought a toilet 'bargain' on eBay which was advertised as wall hung. When it arrived (and after last return date) I realised it was back to wall. The frame is already plumbed in... can I use the same frame for a back to wall toilet? Assuming the floor height, and soil and flush pipe line up?

This is the kind of thing I was thinking of. I can't do much else with the layout as the toilet has to go into this space. The wall is brick (single skin) with a 20mm lime plaster layer on top. I am looking at offsetting the soil pipe back into the wall (or even just against the wall - currently it is sitting a few cm out). Maybe some thing like this could work? The soil pipe is the main issue I think. If this was resolved I could use something like Nick suggested. Or go for a floor standing toilet if the bottom bracket of the wall hung frame is getting in the way of the soil pipe.

Specified a wall hung toilet which I thought would fit neatly behind the the pocket door. In reality the frame and boxing is 21cm from the wall (solid brick wall) leaving me only around 50cm for the pan (bringing it all the way up the door - not ideal). I need to re-think how the reduce the projection of toilet but I'm limited by the 4in waste pipe sitting slightly away from the wall (it comes up from downstairs inside the house). Any recommendations for best way to tackle this? One option is a close coupled toilet but I was planning for a bidet toilet and most/all are floor standing or wall hung. Also considering a floor standing back to wall and trying to somehow curve the waste pipe into the wall (the plaster layer is around 20mm so can shave off a bit).

I am not familiar with the term ‘timber head extension insulation’. Is that a product?

The window is actually aluminium-clad timber (Norssken).

For whatever reason (have parted company with builder so...) the window measurement was 10cm out and I have a huge gap under the lintel. I am considering the best way to fill this? The plus side is the window will not be very visible from the outside as it looks out onto a narrow passageway. I am think of glueing a block of wood painted in the same colour and then foaming to fill the remaining space. Does this sound sensible?

I am in the final stages of installing a Vent Axia + Quiet vent kit purchased from BPC. I have wall mounted the unit in the downstairs wet room so it will sit above a wall mounted toilet and the whole thing will be boxed in (with access panel of course). It is currently sitting on the simple hanging rail provided by Vent Axia which is fine but I am wondering if I should install some sort of vibration dampening material on the wall so that it sits against that vs against the wall (external solid brick wall).

Having problems with my screed floor in kitchen extension. At one end it was too thin (30mm) and cracked so builder took up that part. More cracks have since appeared even in thicker parts (see right of photo) and today I unwittingly hoovered a big hole into one edge! Is it normal that you can hoover up crumbly patches at the edge??

But 13mm on one step would be noticeable surely?

Maybe. I'm more looking for ammunition to ask the builder to change them. I don't really want to live with that short step. They measured incorrectly using screed height and not finished floor height.

Thanks. I'm not installing vinyl on the ground floor though ? Someone else is telling me only 1mm is tolerated.

Does anyone know how much variation in riser height is acceptable under Building Regs? The finished floor level will mean the bottom riser is 13mm shorter than the rest (190mm). Not an ideal scenario I know...

The insulation is 200mm in this room.

Building Control said 65mm minimum. I asked if they check this and they said it’s difficult ?

The sub-floor is not beam and block it is a concrete slab. I think a lot of the issue is with the insulation layer. It was VERY rocky when I walked over it which likely explains the lumpy appearance. I did question this at the time time but was told the screed layer would stabilise everything. I wanted to tape it but there was so much movement in it I'm not sure the tape would have held. There were also some large-ish gaps. I really should have put my foot down at this point (but it gets tiring complaining about every single thing). This is a good idea. There isn't a huge amount of room under the door frames for extra layers.

Before and after. Upstands are in. And edging strip although coming out in places.

Engineered wood on top. But I would like the UFH to work as it should i.e. have something to heat! How bad would it be to rip the whole lot up? To be honest the whole thing looks like a dogs dinner in any case. I’m disappointed.

I can’t see the depth in the doorways but one has a big crack across it. I called Building Control and they said 65mm minimum. The builder will probably argue it’s only the edge which is not deep although I can’t see a reason why that should be so. Other concern was the insulation was rocking a fair bit before screed went in. So now I have an unstable 200mm insulation base with a ‘too-thin’ screed layer on the top. Yes the pipes are embedded.

Hi, new to this site. I am renovating on older property and have installed a solid floor in the old part of house and new extension (concrete base + 150-200mm celotex + UFH + screed). I'm worried about the screed as it has cracked near the door. Apparently this is normal when a large door is installed but I measured the cracked part and it is only 30mm. Difficult to guage the depth of the rest of the floor (although measured less than 50mm in another part) but I'm worried....should I be? Also the screed appears to have large aggregates in it. Is this normal?