Ahmiccc

cost and for somewhat more insulation i guess.

Hi All, hope your able to help think its a pretty simple question but just want to clarify everything ill need. So the story is finish upstairs bedrooms ufh in-between joists spreader plates all good working which is great now moving to downstairs and its going to be a little bit different construction so its still joists which I've fitted with 150mm PIR and left a maximum of 2cm airgap before i fit chipboard which is where my first question lies. So i was planning on running a 22mm chip board and overlay boards and then self levelling and then potentially having tiles but probably engineers wooden floor, but after a bit of research i found to stick the overlay boards down and this best goes on plywood or cement board and this helps to tie everything in so its solid especially since potentially could have tiles on top? so here comes the question i like to be super secure but of course i have a bit of restraints when it comes to door heights. so am i best to just go with the 22mm chipboard or 18mm chipboard and 6mm cement board on top and run the overlay boards 20mm with 150mm pipe centres then self levelling screed Next question what's best pipe to use on the overlay boards ? am i okay to use the PEX-Al-PEX like upstairs ? will it bend to 150mm pipe centres ? or is there another pipe that's better for this application ? Secondly what's the best self levelling screed to go on top of the overlay boards ? Look forward to hearing your opinion and suggestions I'm sure there will be more questions on from this but would be good to see what you all think

Hi All, I hope you can help me please, my plumber has been on and off, hell coem for a few hours then shoot to another job and so forth, ive had him sort my UVC and so forth and the othernight he stayed till 3am and wanted full pay for a job where the system still wasnt fully working, payed 60% of the bill but obviously wont get it all untill he comes to get the system running fully. issue was my wiring centre KL08NSB and he had L&N wired in terminals 1+2 where the pump goes this being a volt free contact ofcourse wont give power to the pump to turn on so the day after i put a common live in terminal 2 and pump on terminal 1 and it works all fine all good everything seems to be fine appart from one thing, details below. So ive gone with salus everything the itemasation is as follows, SQ610 thermostats, KL08NSB wiring centre, and THB230 auto balancing valves. I seem to have na issue the red light flashes quickly on the valves for a few minutes then its does a slow flash and i hear some sort of whiring (im guessing this is the valve moving) i then seen the flow go to 5l/min on the flow regulators (these are fully open) so maybe more, then the red light goes solid and stays solid for a few minutes after that it does a slow flash the flow then drops to 0l/min and then a solid red light ive watched this for a few minutes with no movement at all anyone able ot help on what to do, whether to wait longer and what not ? i have the thermostat set to maximum so im guessing the valve shouldnt shut untill give the signal to turn off after its hit the thermostat set point. Its only been a couple days and my plumber isnt answering probably upset for above reasons but the entire scope of the job has been finished about 80% and hes been paid 60% but i need him to come back but its a bit of a catch 22, with not payign him it all untill he fixes it and he might not come back till hes paid it all but then he might not come back again if i pay him all so waste of money. Please ask away and help away please so i can give it all a go, ill probably be on it all day tomorrow again to see what we got and i have a few jobs in garden which i can go back and forth to see how its running fi i do need to wait longer but unsure

Hi Helpers, im installing Wet UFH throuhgought entire house and done the 3 bedroom floors now next step is the bathroom and im looking to see what the subfloor should be pre tiles. So my set up is on the top floors and i have joists so im running insulation between joists then spreader plates nad pipes going through my plan is 18mm chipboard, then a 6mm cement board then tiles on top, mainly to stop tiles from cracking. but i was wondering is this a good idea or whats the best to do ? for the UFH aswell as not having the floor tiles crack. Thanks in advance for your advice

Hi All,, I'm wanting to see the best possible brands or set up for my home, ill be running two manifolds top and bottom floor, ideally i was looking at the heatmiser 12v due to the 12v possibility in bathroomS and I don't want to fit a floor temp probe due to tiles and just not wanting that hassle in case of god forbid so then maybe have the option of having an air temp sensor on the ceiling but heat rises and a bit iffy on it not certain lets say whether its best thing to do. So done some research and found the salus auto balancers are the dogs gonads and essentially a must have on manifolds but these aren't compatible with heatmiser thermostats so there's no other 12v thermostats on the market i could be using or is salus not compatible with heatmiser not essentially true? What other options would be best to buy electrically is what I'm more interested in I'm okay with manifolds and pumps and stuff but regards the control side the thermostats, actuators and wiring centre combo also I don't like the idea of wireless just cause of changing batteries i want something hard wired and possible in a zone 1 on the boarder of zone 2 in bathroomS .

So I’ll be installing UFH on ground and 1st floor, no rads in the house appart from electric one in bathroom for towel warming so you’ll need a buffer tank 100% otherwise you’ll essentially reduce the life span of your boiler drastically maybe by like 70/80% due to short cycling, so you go from boiler to buffer tank that’s the boilers loop then from the buffer tank you go into a tee! One of the side goes to upstairs manifold and other side goes to downstairs manifold before going into the manifold you will need a two port valve On both manifolds, and then if you need more on how everything else goes forward can definatley help if you need

That’s smashing I’ve got my head round it all now regards the hot water side and uvc and everything so Thankyou for that and will definitely take your advice on the UVC from Trevor and also the accumulator, just a one last queerly I think, and I’ll leave the water softener out of the equation so won’t be installing that but for the cold water taps and appliances and so on, where would I take the water from would I take the water mains up to attic then tee off there and bring back down to taps and appliances or, can I Tee off from ground floor before going up to supply them all or would it go from UVC blender group valve which connects the HW out from uvc and CW in to blend ? if so how does this blender know what temperature I want at taps ? Or am I barking up the wrong tree

That sounds awesome brilliant thankyou! Wont be nothing from cold mains can do that no problem, but to get cold water to boiler would i then go from the control group ? or have to interrupt the mains and have a 15mm tee of for boiler ? Ideally id like soft water on the hot water to showers just to stop the water droplets really so ill go with the combi mate conditioner for them I think that would be best idea. rather than trying to figure out how to through the water softener in there then back up and so forth. Yeah when two showers running there wont be anything else running and even the two showers running it wont be for long, regards the UVC i was thinking around a 210L tank to be enough for my needs would you agree ? thinking like something linked below: as id like the ability ot possibly even have a heater in place just as a back up really just the possibility more than a requirement i think the below allows that. http://www.advancedwater.co.uk/prod-218-088-2120.html When you say 300l accumulator I'm guessing you mean a 300l mains accumulator but in regards to how much fits in tank is around 180L of water as the rest is the bladder ? just wanted to clear this. something like the below. https://www.anglianpumping.com/product/accumulator-tanks/300-litre-accumulator-vertical-gws?gclid=Cj0KCQiAweaNBhDEARIsAJ5hwben8ggq5t9p1ioKusX_9_hCjd6j77v8MVHhgRabYAJrMokmlzDPhVcaArfDEALw_wcB

Hi Nick, not to do any one down but I've seen you around on these forums and was hoping you would respond to this question, you've cleared a path for me i just need it rectifying a little fuzzy in some areas, don't mean to sound cliché. I've put my comments and questions in red. So I believe this will tie in to your point below regards hot water not being tied into the return path, so essentially my boiler wont be plumbed in for hot water just for heating ? as the hot water will come directly from the UVC ? So the point of mains > UVC > outlets, it wont be going through my boiler at all so as to repeat essentially from above ? will the heating of the water regards the coil and boiler be sufficient enough to provide me with hot water ? and regards this, does this then mean I should be getting same flow as cold water for my hot water ? or there about ? which i believe will be enough to run two showers at once. Yes the plumbing wont be a problem that I've got my head around, in this instance im wanting a salt water softener, would it be good to have the water softener plumbed in before the UVC as I live in a hard water area and it'd increase the life span of all my appliances/boiler and also i hate the sight of water drops where they leave a residue if not wiped off straight after a shower, this will be only plumbed into my appliances and not the sinks in utility and kitchen due to water taste. So how i see this going out is as follows: Mains |-> water softener -> UVC -> outlets (or does it need to go UVC boiler then outlets as with boiler im then limtied ot 10.6l/min) (tee) |-> Kitchen and utility cold water. The kitchen and cold water wont be used so much when showering. Sounds great that will plan out that utility tap wont use much hot water mainly showers then kitchen sink. I think ill have the room but i think it can only be better if i plumbed it to a rising 28mm i know the UVC reduces it down to 22m just future proofing really ? Once again thanks for the response and going through these points.

Can’t find anything in here to resolve my issue of providing good hot water flow to two showers sadly

I’ll be posting here Shorty of a theory I’ve been thinking hopefully to try, using a UVC as a hot water storage and then pump pumping around 20l/min then restrictors on showers for 10l/min each on hot water side.

Thanks mr punter from my understanding an accumulator will help with keeping my boiler putting at the most amount of hot water possible which is 10.6l/min but I require more if I were to run two showers I think

Hi John, cheers for this but still doesn't seem to improve my problem of more flow to be able to provide for 2 showers and taps. the UVC wont be ultra violet it'll be a salt type softener. looking for a solution to increase flow essentially and to be able to supply two showers Ive been looking into maybe using an unvented cylinder but as a hot water storage so instead of cold water feed at the bottom i have that going into a pump then that feeds the showers which is where i will get the flow and then feeding into the tank i have hot water from the boiler feeding into the tank, i hope that makes sense.

Hi All, I'm having issues with low hot water flow when cold tap is open, the house is a full reno and so everything has been stripped back and all we have regards plumbing in the house now is a sink with cold water only right now and then a bath with cold and hot water, we have also two radiators connected up just to help with a little heating when working in the house over winter. I've recently installed a new 32 mm MDPE water mains (upgraded from 15mm) into my house from this drops down to 28mm then 22mm stop tap and then onto a mixture of 15mm plastic and copper up to boiler and also all taps (this is all temporary) I still have the 15mm mains connected for now main water mains but isolated on internal stop tap. Severn Trent say the pressure in the area is 2.1 bar so this is maximum I can get and do get is 2.1 bar static pressure, when one tap is open i get varying between 0.8-1.2 bar dynamic pressure. I have a Worcester Bosch 28cdi compact combi boiler rated to 10.6l a minute hot water new boiler bought start of this year maybe this is my first mistake and under rated what I needed. but I'm looking to see if I can rectify this mistake maybe and hopefully without having to replace my boiler. From this boiler I will of course be getting hot water but also this boiler closed loop system will be feeding into a buffer tank and then the buffer tank will essentially feed UFH for both floors, storage tank is there to stop short cycling. The only space i have is to have all this in the attic, so my boiler is in the attic and the UFH buffer tank is in the attic if I need to add an accumulator or unvented tank or hot water storage tank or nay other option this would also have to be fitted in the attic. Its a 90m2 house that's two floors combined and then an attic on top which is just storage and now probably my plumbing hub. In the house there will be a possibility of having 2 showers and 3 taps running at one time, that's garden tap whether that's watering or washing the car or whatever, the kitchen tap and then utility sink tap, this is worst case scenario but what I know I definitely want to cover my self for is definitely having two showers running at the same time and taps is something we can easily work around. The whole house will be water softened which will be installed also, the only water that wont be softened is kitchen and utility cold water taps. So these are the results I'm getting from the l/min jug, from my taps and I'm only going to be putting up the findings from the 32mm MDPE pipe opened up. the jug measures a maximum of 24l/min, so when I have one tap open the water is overflowing from the jug, so more than 24l/min but its only just trickling over the jug so maybe around 30l/min, when I open up two taps, sink downstairs next to stop top and up stairs bathroom tap right above stop tap I get around 16l/min on upstairs tap, didn't measure what I get downstairs as well to add them up. on non of the taps are there restrictors either so full bore what the pipe allows is what comes out. When I close all taps and just open up hot water top i get 10l/min which seems right as that's what boiler is rated to, the problem is I keep my hot water tap open and then when I open one tap the hot water drops down to not even 3l/min and the cold water is around 24l/min so obviously my hot water I don't have enough flow. My dilemma is what do I install to have essentially a good enough hot water flow to both my showers don't know whether its accumulator for cold water, whether its an unvented indirect cylinder or hot water storage tank indirect, or if there is anything else that would be better? Below are the tanks I've been looking at but don't know what's best for my situation or do i need to look for different spec tanks or as above what else would you recommend, bearing in mind I don't want to replace my boiler. Indirect unvented cylinder https://www.heatandplumb.com/acatalog/heatrae-sadia-megaflo-eco-systemready-hot-water-cylinder-95050499?utm_source=google&utm_medium=Shopping&gclid=CjwKCAiAtdGNBhAmEiwAWxGcUq-jadTirtJZKQErEoWJ8zMcKBQ0KsvsirPMZYLAMwUi7kxncDgVNxoCt00QAvD_BwE Accumulator tank https://pumpexpress.co.uk/shop/pressurewave-series-150-litre-vertical-pressure-vessel/

Ahhh yeah your right about PRV I shall keep it even though the pump can be adjusted but I’m thinking to set them both at 4.5bar what storage tank size would you recommend for my circumstance ? I’m thinking around 100-200l regards flow I’m getting around 15L/m please confirm if I’m wrong but the more open taps or shower or even using the water going to boiler coming back down to shower this will reduce flow rate ? so if I want to screw over my neighbours and maybe get Severn Trent to increase the pressure I connect it straight too the mains as it will suck all the water from where it can ? no no it’s fine I have an okay understanding of how this works just very unsure so want to make sure I’m going down the right direction before I invest even more and get screwed over by Severn Trent

I’ve lost all hope in Severn Trent honestly, so maybe look myself to fit this pressure logger, or would that not be valid to Severn Trent ? should my mains pressure drop below 1.5bar when one cold water tap is open ? yeah I’ll get rid of the PRV, don’t need it with 2.1bar, can I install a grundfos scala 2 straight into the water mains and will it work essentially cause from my understanding a pump can only deliver what it’s given only way to increase is maybe having to install a cold water storage tank in attic (no space anywhere else) then the pump from there to rest of the house.

After one tap is open I have no pressure of hot water so I can only imagine going forward when I have two showers and maybe sink or utility sink tap open no pressure in the showers and stuff Cold water comes in on ground level is a mains pressurised system at 2.1bar and the boiler is in attic currently fed by 15mm pipe

Hi All, looking for some advice on how to get higher pressure from water mains. I’ll start off with from the beginning and they came round first to test my water pressure and flow and said my pressure is fine but he had to do my flow rate on the garden tap which was the very old fashioned hose of an ID of about 8mm and wasn’t really getting the right flow but he said that’s normal for this pipe, he couldn’t come in then due to covid, I asked him how to increase the pressure he mentioned a few things and one of them was lay a new bigger water mains from main pipe to my house so this is all done old pipe is 15mm copper and new one now is 32mm mdpe, this has since been inspected and filled in and connected and the people connecting it were shocking didn’t have tools borrowing our tools, not prepared for the job late, unwilling to do a proper job not having right connection equipment either just shocking anyway it got connected and I had 2.1bar which I was expecting more as I had also placed a pressure regulator in my line to reduce from an expected 6bar or whatever. After some testing my self with and without the PRV, on different taps with pressure gauges all I could get is 2.1 bar and when one tap was opened I’d get 0.75bar maximum but mainly sitting on 0.5bar and sometimes going up to 0.75bar. After speaking to Severn Trent they said maximum pressure in the line is 2.1bar which isn’t great but I guess I can’t do much about apart from continuously complain so they raise the pressure hopefully, another thing they said it shouldn’t drop below 1.5bar and when I mentioned to them that mine was when running he said he would have to raise to his manager. So what I’m essentially preparing for is worst case they can’t give me more pressure than 2.1 bar and and can’t help, so what I’m asking what are my options? to have in my house ive been looking at booster pumps possibly a grundfos scala 2 maybe a breaker tank in between mains and pump just more of an idea of what to do and how to implement. It’s a 90m2 , 3 bed house with 2 bathrooms, and scope with more extensions and maybe an en-suite. 300m2 garden where a long hose is needed for water probably sprinkler attached to it

Oh yeah I was meaning 220m joists with 200m insulation with 250m insulation Its a very tight fit to the concrete on below With 175 insulation I get a u value of 0.14 and I heard between 0.13 and 0.25 is good so having the 200m insulation I think is perfect really it’ll be 0.13 u value

Yeah sorry this isn’t a option sadly due to budget.

Okay that’s great so I’m sure I’d like maybe more than 25mm maybe 50mm at the very least in the ground floor ceiling and then the first floor ceiling I can easily do more not a problem and probably fibrous insulation too also the ground floor, the floor will be ripped out cause can’t put in 100mm let alone 200mm which is why I’m doing the research first so I know to order the right thing first

Hi all, just bought a 1965 house has a 60mm cavity wall insulation and double glazing windows but all will have to changed for new, it’s a full refurb the only thing it don’t need is to be bulldozed down and re built that’s how big the project is, anyway it’s our first home and wanting to make it a forever home so we want to install underfloor heating system on both floors. Upstairs and downstairs are both suspended floors on. downstairs I was planning on putting 100mm PIR insulation this is us having to pull the joists out and put bigger ones in then have UFH fitted on that upstairs I was going to have 75mm insulation in joists and electrics below the insulation and UFH Above of course. The attic is fully insulated aswel I believe with 75mm insulation but this isn’t a problem too much if needs more is this enough is more needed? Obviously money comes into factor, but is the upstairs insulation as important as the downstairs insulation, as downstairs there is air bricks upstairs there isn’t. So am I able to cut the upstairs insulation a bit more form 75 to maybe 50 and have a 125 or 150 in downstairs ? when it comes to flooring it’ll all be laminate throughout entire house.

Can’t seem to find a range or a source to buy from or brand or anything spent past few hours, don’t suppose you can help. Is a bigger tank better or ?

I was thinking maybe a 150liter Worcester Bosch tank something like link attached https://www.worcester-bosch.co.uk/products/cylinders/directory/green-storage-wb-range-cylinders is this what is required or something else

Last one from me I think, Is the bigger buffer tank the better so less use of boiler or ? Doesn't matter too much ? Thinking bigger boiler more hot water so more hot water to send round and less of an impact of the cooler water coming back is affecting ? Think it’s more of an efficiency question really is a bigger buffer tank more efficient ? And better ?