Shanemac

Hi, sorry if this is a silly question but I can't seem to find a definitive answer. I'm about to start tiling and currently it's just the door linings in place, no architrave etc yet. Should the tiles be fitted up next to the door linings with a small expansion gap and then siliconed or should I cut the bottoms of the frames and slide the tiles underneath? The latter would look better but isn't there the potential for the frame to drop if not supported from the floor as well as the screws into the walls? Many thanks

Hi, In the end, after some negotiations and onetile dropping their price further, the local tile place got close enough to onetiles price that it wasn't worth it to use them. I suspect the retailers work off a significant profit margin, or in the UK anyway.

Sounds good to me, thanks. Is there much between the different adhesives? Where I got the tiles from recommended kerakoll h40?

Thanks for your reply. Well the mat alone for the ground floor would be over 1k so if it was unnecessary that would be a nice saving. I spoke to cemfloor and they suggested that it would likely be fine without the mat but it's become very common to use it and for that reason they would recommend it. Would different zone temperatures make a significant difference? I'm not putting a ufh mat upstairs, so just use hardie etc?

Hello, Hoping for some advise on tiling onto different substrates. I am tiling our ground floor, circa 135m² with 750mm x 750mm porcelain tiles onto a 75mm cemfloor screed with underfloor heating. The screed has been down for around 8 months and not a single crack visible, ufh has not been commissioned yet and I won't tile until it has been. Do I need to use a decoupling mat? I've read posts saying its not necessary and others saying it absolutely is. Upstairs I have 2 bathrooms to tile with 375mm x 750mm onto cabershield(waterproof coating) 22mm t&g glued and screwed onto posijoists at 400mm centres. Should I overboard this with 6mm cement board, ply or just use ditra etc as I've read both methods suggested? Many thanks

Yes another online reseller site worked out more expensive than local by the time you add delivery etc but onetile quote says, Our quote includes delivery, VAT, Customs and import fees, so hopefully I wouldn't have any unexpected costs. The local tile place produced a statement from Atlas concorde saying that they do not directly supply such online companies etc and that unauthorised supply channels will be pursued and shut down and that no warranties or support will apply. However I don't understand how they can supply the tiles so much cheaper if they are having to purchase through a reseller in the first place, unless the local tile place is just putting on a particularly big margin? Local company knocked 37.5% off retail, online one was about 50% off making the tiles about £30m² ex vat delivered. Might just use a credit card for protection and hope for the best.

Hi, I need to purchase a reasonably large quantity of floor and wall tiles for our new build. A local tile company have quoted for them and for a comparison I also got a quote from a company called onetile who happened to be considerably cheaper. It seems that they are headquartered in Italy but have a UK website and office address. When I showed the local tile company the better quote they tried to warn me off using them citing horror stories of goods not turning up and that they were not authorised dealers of the (Atlas Concorde) brand. They seem similar to tile expert etc. I'd prefer to use the local place but the difference amounts to nearly £2000 ex vat, it would be interesting to know if anyone had used them or similar companies? Thanks

An update on this, the Company acknowledge that they're not fitted correctly but are still standing by their statement that is due to the direction of my builders. (My builders issued no direction on fitting) It's getting quite heated so I won't say too much more at the moment. They do insist that the large fixed gable frames must be fixed directly to the external skin for stability and due to wind loading. (They provided a technical drawing and I fabricated a 70mm box steel which sits between the apex and lower frames) Does anyone know if this is correct or should it also be pulled back into the cavity? Thanks

I have experience of this, feel free to PM me if need be.

No nothing specifically about position within cavity, I had assumed that would be fairly standard procedure at the time. They had the details for where there was timber cladding/render etc. We're in South west England.

I'll speak to them tomorrow and report back with the outcome. Thank you for your help.

Sorry, 7 days fitting. That's great, I'll look it up. Thanks

I put the question to them last Friday and they came back to me today after speaking to the fitters (their own in house) and their reply was our builders told them that's how they wanted them (very unlikely, don't think they were on site at the time) but that they wouldn't cause any issues as they are. I wanted to be sure I wasn't making a fuss over nothing so I'll get onto them again. They were here for 10 days fitting(quite a lot of windows) so I don't doubt they'll dig their heels in about moving them. Many thanks for your help.

Yes supply and install by a reputable local firm.

Thanks for your reply. I thought I'd read that re building regs but couldn't find it again or in the part L documents? So they should have been fitted on straps then? It's a 150 cavity. Stub cills fitted, slate cills will be fitted underneath.