nh26302

Maybe I'll get him to remove the bonding and if possible to fix hardie backer then go with that otherwise, will get him to sand cement it. For fixing the backer board, is it better to use PB adhesive or adhesive foam? Also, for fixing the anchors, is it just a case of drilling a 6mm hole through the board once it has been fixed with adhesive and then push these fixings through it and fasten? https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-nylon-hammerfix-6mm-x-40mm-50-pack/57635 Thanks

Thanks.... What would be better, apply a skim to the bonding or replace bonding with sand/cement? Also, which would dry quicker as I would like to get the shower room functioning as soon as I can. Many thanks

Thanks Nod, As the area is small, I was thinking of maybe getting him to remove the bonding and just sand cement it instead. Would that be better than skimming or is skimming the way to go? Thanks

Hello, I had had a shower room tiled around 3 yrs ago with natural stone tiles and recently noticed one of the tiles had moved out. Just got a builder in to have a look and basically all the plaster behind the tiles (and adhesive) has crumbled away. The plan initially was to fix a hardie backer board and tile onto that but when the builder removed the affected plaster there is a brick wall and he said it's not possible to fix the backer board and as it had been bonded previously, he removed all the loose bonding and has just put bonding on it again and said he will be back in a couple of days to fix the tiles directly on to it. By chance, I was searching on line and came across a few posts suggesting that fixing tiles onto bonding is a no no. The bonding is currently drying and I'm wondering what is the best approach going forward....should I get him to skim over the bonding with multifinish and then wait a couple of weeks to dry before tiling? I've also read something about using a primer like sbr on the bonding and then tiling on top of that? If that works, is it just a case of "brushing" the bonding with the primer, letting it dry and then using tile adhesive to fix the tiles onto it? The builder had also asked me to get pva which he brushed on the brickwork before applying the bonding (not sure if he also mixed it in the bonding) but it seems like pva is also not the way to go from what I have read? The affected area is around 1sqm and this is what has been bonded (again). It was initially thought that as the bottom tiles were affected, maybe the silicon wasn't applied properly between and the bottom tiles and the shower tray and this caused water to seep through, however, thinking about it, it is probably the fact that it was bonded before and the tiles being natural stone also allowed moisture to seep through? Anyway, the builder is back Tuesday and I would really appreciate advise on the best way forward. Thanks in advance

Thank you all

I will be using the ultra slim LED downlights which have a depth of ~30mm - wouldn't the 100x25mm be cutting it to fine to be able to install them? To clarify, I was thinking of using 50mm x 50mm battens

I will be using the ultra slim LED downlights which have a depth of ~30mm - wouldn't the 100x25mm be cutting it to fine to be able to install them?

Wanted to have downlights on the ceiling, hence the use of battens to create the void

Hi, Have posted this on the SIP forum but thought I would also post here.... I have a SIP outbuilding with a vaulted ceiling and need to attach 2inch battens to the roof for fixing plasterboard (to skim). The roof panels have 11mm OSB and need advise on how best to secure the battens to the ceiling? I have seen suggestions of simply using 70mm wood screws and also using the black phosphate drywall screws together with PVA glue to ensure a greater pullout resistance? Thanks in advance

Hello, I have a SIP outbuilding with a vaulted ceiling and need to attach 2inch battens to the roof for fixing plasterboard. The roof panels have 11mm OSB and need advise on how best to secure the battens to the ceiling? I have seen suggestions of simply using 70mm wood screws and also using the black phosphate drywall screws together with PVA glue to ensure a greater pullout resistance? Thanks in advance

Great, thank you both!

Hi there, No, it's the actual brick. Here is a link to the product - https://www.forticrete.co.uk/products/architectural-masonry/linear/splitface Also below is a picture of the brick and how I want it to look.... Many thanks

Hello, I am looking at getting some masonry stone to build a small feature wall in my garden no more than 3 courses high. The bricks are the split face linear bricks from a company called Forticrete - in diamond white. I was wondering whether it would be possible to lay/fix them with an adhesive rather than normal mortar as I would prefer the finish of not seeing the mortar between the joints? Thanks

Hello, I have bought a new flush veneer door to use as an ensuite bathroom door. https://www.diy.com/departments/exmoor-flush-oak-veneer-internal-door-h-1980mm-w-762mm-t-40mm/5059340254777_BQ.prd I want to paint the outside of the door in a black colour, the wall has been painted in a matt black paint as the plan is to make a feature wall (and concealed door) using 19mm x 38mm battens. The black wall/door is just to show up the gap between each batten so was wondering what was paint was best to use on the veneer door? Thanks in advance

Thank you all for your responses...timbers have now been removed and gaps made good with concrete

Steel mesh was laid in each section - if that's what you mean by reinforcement in the concrete?

Thank you all for your answers...I will insist on them removing the timber joists. What would be the best mix of concrete to fill this? Also, I have a jumbo bag of sharp sand - can that be used in the concrete mix? I'm starting to lose confidence in my builders - therefore, would like to be sure that they fix it properly as one of them mentioned that if I wanted them to remove the joists then they would fill the void with screed....

Hello, I had a 12m x 8m concrete slab laid in my garden on which to build a timber outbuilding. To make it easier to pour and level the concrete, my builder divided the area into 3 smaller sections by using the 6x2 timers to section it off - i.e they made 3 8x4 sections. At the time they said they would remove the timbers once the concrete had set but now they are saying to leave the timber in as it would be too difficult to remove them as they will need to break the concrete either side of the timber. My question is, is there any downside by leaving the timber in? It's treated timber so the builder is saying that there is no issue with rot or anything else? Thanks in advance

Hello, I am planning to have a SIP outbuilding built at the rear of my garden. It will come as a kit from the fabricators and will measure 6m x 4m. I will also having decking installed around the structure which will be 2m wide and will need to put a concrete slab down for it. I am thinking about the following 2 options for the foundations: Opt 1: dig a trench and fill with concrete and install sole plate (and sips) on 7N concrete block frame - as I am limited to a 2.5M height this will allow me to install 100mm insulation and screed. Opt 2: install a 200mm concrete slab (100mm hardcore + 100mm concrete) measuring 10m x 8m upon which I fix the SIP structure and will give me the necessary 2m around it for the decking and leave the insulation out, as height would be reduced Option 2 would be cheaper but am wondering how much impact not have insulation would be? Thoughts/advise would be greatly appreciated Thanks Nasim

Thank you all

Thank you Markc

Hi, I am planning to build an outhouse at the rear of my garden. I will be having a trench dug to run a soil pipe from the outbuilding to the man hole, which is about 40m away. The trench will be dug close to a meter deep in order to achieve a decent fall for the soil pipe. I also need to run an armoured cable and cold water pipe to the outbuilding and was wondering whether all 3 (soil, electric and water) could be run using the same trench, rather than digging a separate trench for the soil pipe? Thanks in advance

Thanks for the tip

Thank you Russell. The weight of the 5 panels and cement boards comes to around 285KG. Just concerned that when standing it up, at some point, most of the weight will be on the one edge of the OSB (before it sits vertically on the sole plate) - Will the 11mm OSB boards be strong enough to withstand that?

Hello, I have a detached garage which is around 30cm from the neigbour's garage and am looking at demolishing this and rebuilding it to use as an office. I am considering getting a SIP kit from Sips Eco Panels in order to minimise the wall thickness (compared to the typical block-cavity-block structure) as I am limited by the width of the garage. As I will be building less than 1M from the boundary, to meet building reqs, I will have to clad it in fibre cement board ( Euroclass A0-d0, s2 rating) but do not have the space to work on the side of the neigbour's garage so was thinking about the possibility of assembling 5 x 1.2m panels on the ground, attaching a breathable membrane, battens and cement board and then lifting into place on the sole plate? Would this approach work and if so, what would be the options for lifting it? Would aligning the base next to the sole plate and having 5-6 people lift from the other side until the bottom of the panel wall sits on the plate or am I talking nonsense and will end up damaging the bottom of the OSB board? Also, would building the back wall with block and then using SIP's for the other 3 walls and roof be a viable solution Am a novice so any advice would be greatly appreciated Thanks Nasim