Ed21

Nobody :😀 Just a case of not wanting to pay the EICR twice. I can wait until it's due, can get the work done and just pay for a a single EICR, However wondered if a small amendment wouidn't need a full EICR, which would have meant could get it done now.

Quick question When work is added to a current Electrical Installation Condition Report (EICR), does the EICR renewal date stay the same or does itr run from the date of this additional work?

Cheers for that. I did think about UV, but was unsure as to how long it would last Trying to save some dosh as won't be using it for more than a year tops. How about DPC base layer covered with a green felt topsheet? Would that be any good?

This may well be daft, but got a large sloping ply roof that needs a cover. I also have a couple of large rolls of black DPC. Any reason(s) why it would be stupid to use the DPC as a roof covering?

Yes I'll be doing a test piece and the product is all good branded stuff and solvent based, . I was more concenrtned about longevity and potential hassle when or if it needs a recoat later on.

Hi All, I've got a fair few wooden exterior painted garage/shed doors that have been adapted to fit with repairs additions and have been fully prepped with solvent primer & solvent Crown grey undercoat. The actual finshed colour looks pretty good as is. I've got a 5lt tin of Sadolin Exterior UV barrier Varnish going spare, so any reason why I should'nt just use this on top of the undercoat instead of buying a gloss topcoat ? Ed

I should know this, but a comment has created some doubts !!! Bought a s/hand home office, more a glorified shed, that has a basic framework covered in stippled marine ply and thinner ordinary ply on the inside. Present insulation is a very thin sheet of fibreglass stuck randomly between the timbers. Want to change this out for some PIR, but wondering where the gap should be? PIR tight against the outside marine ply leaving an air gap between PIR and internal ply or PIR tight against internal ply leaving an air gap between outside marine ply an PIR? Which one do you reckon? Any help appreciated. Ed

Sounds good It's 1.3m down and 32mm pipe. Got a raised rim, so a chunk of 100mm EPS close cut all the way around resting on a stop within the hole and some small gravel round the pipe is the way to go. Thanks for that !

Hi all, I've changed an inaccessable stopcock burried deep in a small shaft to a much larger access pit with lid, but thought it might be prudent to add some insulation. So foam or foil wrap lying on ballast or just cover the whole pipe in ballast or is there a better way ? Any advice appreciated. Ed

Bought a tube, but used a smear of drinking water rated silicone grease on the seals and it worked !!!! Still a good shout though, will add to the backups.

First read that and thought no, then thought why not? Fitting will have to come apart anyway, so will get a tube and see

Yeah black was straight, but the blue had a curve although this bit didn't leak. Used 450mm adjustable monkey wrench for the collar and same sized stilsons for the body. Tigtened up as far as I dare whiile watching the thead. It's tight.

Yes I deburred it, but will be dilligent when I do it again. Was a new fitting and seals all good. Blue was a pain, usual rolled up transport storage curve, but black was straught as coiuld be. Just going to do it again and check every stage.

Here you go

Yes I've done all the usual It's Blue 32mm standard > going to a 25mm-33mm Universal adapater > Black Imperial It's got a cone star shaped hard rubber seal that looks to reduce when screwed up. By the looks of it the smaller diameters will push in a lot further, so gain more grip. Next size up was 35mm + so was too big. Will be doing it again, but was thinking that maybe using some silicone grease (suitable for drinking water) in the cone might be enough to get it in a bit further and aid the seal . Pipes wioll be flused after - any reason why not?

Hi All, lI'm using an adapter to join blue MDPE with the older black Alkathene? pipe. Blue no problem and tight, but the black joint is weeping a bit. This will be burried so although it's not leaking much, not exactly happy with it like that. I'm resigned to having to take apart again, but with the exception of a squirt of silicone spray any ideas as to how to ensure the joint is tight? Thanks - Ed

Hi All I'm about to start tiling on some STS ceramic foam backing board, primed with SBR using 600 X 300 x 10mm Porcelain tiles. The plan was to use the 4 bags of Dunlop CF-O3 that have been kept dry inside a heated house and is now a year out of date. Bags look good, all as bought and visibly looks no different. So the question is will this be ok to use? Current price is £40 a bag and have 4 of them so could be £160 wasted

Just done a trial run using some 5mm laminate foam underlay. The compression on the high spots is down to under 1mm and all the voids are fully filled. The tray is now fully grounded with no further compression possible, it's created a solid bed across the underside of the whole tray. If anybody has any opinion as to why this is not a good idea, can you please let me know before I make it permanent. Cheers all = Ed

Just to add to the above as can't edit. What about thin polystyrene or PIR sheet etc. as well, would these be any good? Ed

Hi all, I've got a large 1700 x 800 stone shower tray that weighs a ton. It will be fitted in an alcove against foam/cement board on three sides and will have a mira upstand all round before trapping the tray on the edge with 12mm large tiles. The floor in front is being tiled upto the shower tray edge and the floor has been reinforced and extra beams put in just in case. The whole lot has 18mm ply and is dead flat. Pinned on all 4 sides along with its own weight to say that this tray is going nowhere is an understatement. The underside of the tray is flat but rough (think stipple) so some very small high spots. It's possible I might (although not certain) that I'll be making some alterations where the tray may need to come out and I'd like to avoid a permanent fix or one that if the tray was removed it may damage tray. floor or wall. So the question is seeing that the only reason for having any bedding etc. would be to take away any high spots on the stipple underside, would a foam type pad as used on laminate flooring etc. suffice instead? If not foam what about rubber etc? Any advice appreciated ? Ed

As it's just a repair got no option but to match the existing, adding depth or a different surface they won't like (not my call TBH). The outside ply has to be removed anyway as it's delaminating in places, so thought why not add some way better insulation. Options are to fully fill the void. Partially fill the void with a gap before the inside ply or partially fill the void with a gap before the outside ply. Doesn't have any barrier at the moment, but if added could add one pinned to the outside of the battens only. I'm sure kingspan will be better than what's there now, but don't want to add if I end up making it worse.

That's good as it's It's mostly 1930's old lime plaster, with the odd bit of modern drywall, but that's easy to remove. Thanks for the reply

I've been asked to help replace about 4m2 of an exposed outside caravan wall. Inside is 6mm faced ply glued onto 2X1 studding and the thinnest of rockwool insulation that no way covers the whole area. On the outside it's got 9mm ply with a thick resin type stipple. None of this has any vapor barrier. It's easy enough to cut out and patch with new plywood on the outside, but was thinking at the very least to add some kingspan. Gap is 50mm, so to keep it simple, was thinking of 40mm board to allow a small 10mm gap. Question is would the gap be better on the outside edge or the inside one?.

I'm extending a shed base which needs some infill and also have a lot of old plaster from a few lath and plaster ceilings. Any reason not to chuck it in the mixer with some new cement as a binder and use it to fill in? it's got no load to speak of and once down will be under solid concrete.

Yep, IP65 plastic junction box, external glands/banjos with armour earthed along with the earth in the 3 core for continuity. The source and destination of the cables also have a separate earthing rod.