Ed21

Yes I'll be doing a test piece and the product is all good branded stuff and solvent based, . I was more concenrtned about longevity and potential hassle when or if it needs a recoat later on.

Hi All, I've got a fair few wooden exterior painted garage/shed doors that have been adapted to fit with repairs additions and have been fully prepped with solvent primer & solvent Crown grey undercoat. The actual finshed colour looks pretty good as is. I've got a 5lt tin of Sadolin Exterior UV barrier Varnish going spare, so any reason why I should'nt just use this on top of the undercoat instead of buying a gloss topcoat ? Ed

I should know this, but a comment has created some doubts !!! Bought a s/hand home office, more a glorified shed, that has a basic framework covered in stippled marine ply and thinner ordinary ply on the inside. Present insulation is a very thin sheet of fibreglass stuck randomly between the timbers. Want to change this out for some PIR, but wondering where the gap should be? PIR tight against the outside marine ply leaving an air gap between PIR and internal ply or PIR tight against internal ply leaving an air gap between outside marine ply an PIR? Which one do you reckon? Any help appreciated. Ed

Sounds good It's 1.3m down and 32mm pipe. Got a raised rim, so a chunk of 100mm EPS close cut all the way around resting on a stop within the hole and some small gravel round the pipe is the way to go. Thanks for that !

Hi all, I've changed an inaccessable stopcock burried deep in a small shaft to a much larger access pit with lid, but thought it might be prudent to add some insulation. So foam or foil wrap lying on ballast or just cover the whole pipe in ballast or is there a better way ? Any advice appreciated. Ed

Bought a tube, but used a smear of drinking water rated silicone grease on the seals and it worked !!!! Still a good shout though, will add to the backups.

First read that and thought no, then thought why not? Fitting will have to come apart anyway, so will get a tube and see

Yeah black was straight, but the blue had a curve although this bit didn't leak. Used 450mm adjustable monkey wrench for the collar and same sized stilsons for the body. Tigtened up as far as I dare whiile watching the thead. It's tight.

Yes I deburred it, but will be dilligent when I do it again. Was a new fitting and seals all good. Blue was a pain, usual rolled up transport storage curve, but black was straught as coiuld be. Just going to do it again and check every stage.

Here you go

Yes I've done all the usual It's Blue 32mm standard > going to a 25mm-33mm Universal adapater > Black Imperial It's got a cone star shaped hard rubber seal that looks to reduce when screwed up. By the looks of it the smaller diameters will push in a lot further, so gain more grip. Next size up was 35mm + so was too big. Will be doing it again, but was thinking that maybe using some silicone grease (suitable for drinking water) in the cone might be enough to get it in a bit further and aid the seal . Pipes wioll be flused after - any reason why not?

Hi All, lI'm using an adapter to join blue MDPE with the older black Alkathene? pipe. Blue no problem and tight, but the black joint is weeping a bit. This will be burried so although it's not leaking much, not exactly happy with it like that. I'm resigned to having to take apart again, but with the exception of a squirt of silicone spray any ideas as to how to ensure the joint is tight? Thanks - Ed

Hi All I'm about to start tiling on some STS ceramic foam backing board, primed with SBR using 600 X 300 x 10mm Porcelain tiles. The plan was to use the 4 bags of Dunlop CF-O3 that have been kept dry inside a heated house and is now a year out of date. Bags look good, all as bought and visibly looks no different. So the question is will this be ok to use? Current price is £40 a bag and have 4 of them so could be £160 wasted

Just done a trial run using some 5mm laminate foam underlay. The compression on the high spots is down to under 1mm and all the voids are fully filled. The tray is now fully grounded with no further compression possible, it's created a solid bed across the underside of the whole tray. If anybody has any opinion as to why this is not a good idea, can you please let me know before I make it permanent. Cheers all = Ed

Just to add to the above as can't edit. What about thin polystyrene or PIR sheet etc. as well, would these be any good? Ed