RomyD

Which is why I was a bit dubious but the original build exceeded UK regs as it was an imported Swedish TF kit, with 3G and 0.233 walls to start with for example. re-design u-values have been calculated as a result of upgrading floor insulation 20mm>70mm, adding IWI and lots of loft insulation plus decent glass. ProDaves experience is encouraging though. ACH heat loss is a bit perplexing to me. With the Jeremy spreadsheet and no MVHR (0% efficiency) and ACH say of 5, I see a ventilation loss of 11.4kW? I find it hard to accept that in a real world scenario there will be so much heat loss via ACH than via fabric, more than 5 times as much. I do not understand why. We will have MVHR though absolute. Yes. No response which appears a common theme at the moment generally. Everyone is extremely busy. I think there is very little chance of meeting that deadline and the new scheme is ridiculous as far as i can tell.

That's reassuring. Suffolk is a bit warmer in winter though. Or rather its probably better to say its not as cold. We've had quotes for ASHP and U/F and new HW system......12kW to 8kW pumps and over £20K...8/. It makes no sense to me. And now RHI is unlikely so need an alternative heating strategy.

Floor area is 134sqm I used .43 as per the Jeremy spreadsheet. Its very difficult to know how leaky a refurb will be and I still need to get my head around its real world effects. Temp delta is 24.6C (21c and -3.6C)

Hi, So we have a 3 bed TF det bungalow in Suffolk undergoing renovation. It was built in 1990 to quite a high (Swedish) spec for the time. Anyway I spent a few hours (days actually) building a spreadsheet to work out heat loss and therefore give a basis for what kind of heating system we would need. Then I found Jeremys spreadsheet (thank you!) and pleasingly the numbers were within a few watts of each other. The problem I have is that in my head it just seems so low. Fabric heat loss comes out at just over 2kW. The re-design u-values are walls 0.14, floor 0.21, ceiling 0.10 and windows and doors at 1.2. Does the heat loss sound sensible? We don't know airtightness so went with an estimate based on data I found on the web; https://eprints.leedsbeckett.ac.uk/id/eprint/2109/3/Johnston %26 Stafford accepted Dec 2015.pdf https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjL_aSKiPrzAhVQT8AKHaakA9UQFnoECA0QAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Frandd.defra.gov.uk%2FDocument.aspx%3FDocument%3DEE01005_6849_FRP.doc&usg=AOvVaw0u9awmIx7t003FO38u924B I know the maths don't lie but I am having trouble believing all we will need is around 2 -3 kW space heating! Can anyone give examples of their build; calculated / actual heat losses / typical u-values? I realize there are lots of variables involved but real world examples would be very useful. I searched for a thread to that effect but couldn't find anything.

tks, for a refurb i believe its 0.30 so at 0.233 that is already met. But is it sensible to invest in reducing it further? I am guessing that the costs will outweigh any benefits financially and payback would be a very long way off. The roof void only has 150mm and 0.214 u-value. Things like air tightness and MHRV and ASHP/GSHP are all on the table too. I am just trying to get a feel for where to invest time, effort and of course money.

Hi, we are in the early stages of working out how best to update the insulation of a 3 bed L shaped 1990 built timber frame brick clad Scandia Hus bungalow as part of a major renovation. The spec of the walls is as in the image below. I stand to be corrected as we are on a very steep learning curve but these U-values look pretty good for a 1990 build? How do they compare today? What if anything would you suggest to improve their thermal performance. We are planning to upgrade where we can but don't want to throw money at it where its of limited benefit. The wall perimeter is about 60m all round although there will be about 11m of full height glass doors in three sections on the southernish elevations. Thanks in advance for any tips!

We have several plans! haha. But we are slimming it down. The inside L of the bungalow faces a perfect south and behind those evergreens lies a wonderful old willow with a small pond to one side...and its a total internal layout revision + insulation updates and new plumbing and wiring and heating and and and, you get the picture I am sure. The basic structure is sound and both the surveyor and architect have commented on its build quality which is comforting.

The gap is about 4 inches between the slots so would they will be too small? tks for the suggestion. I found a pic of the below online but no useful help where to get one. Atplas don't deal with the public...I may have to fabricate a tool... or a brake pad separator may do it...?

So we finally exchanged contracts on this place and I now feel a bit more able to post more about it. I am hoping to do a "Just Doing It in Suffolk" thread on here to document our progress and also to ask for HELP along the way!! Anyway, here is a bigger picture of the plot and the bungalow which is actually an older Scandia Hus import from 1990......I think the bungalow is only going to be half the work!

Hi, Can anyone suggest a source for the correct tool to open this atplas box lid. It looks like a twist and lift kind of thing like a coin twist but on a larger scale? Thanks!

I think this will be the best approach. We can more easily address any issues, be sure of the state of the frame and improve internal insulation and so on. It does sound "brutal" though.

Yes, both of these things will be interesting to note and will to a large extent determine how much it will cost! We are prepared for the worst however but hoping for the best! The initial survey was quite positive. Also it would be an odd thing to do to fit triple glazing and floor insulation but leave the frames empty, but we will soon see.

This is a view from the south west (garden) side. As you can see the bungalow and the garden need a lot of work .... There is a lot of garden. In a nutshell we hope to rework the interior layout and fit gshp, underfloor heating, pv solar and improve insulation where we can where it is cost effective to do. Expect we will need mvhr too. It has 50mm floor insulation and 100mm loft insulation, but not sure of wall insulation thickness. It is a Swedish kit house so presume wall insulation is superior to UK standards of the day. It has 30yr old tmber triple glazed windows which will be upgraded also although they are still in a basically sound condition, but many are in the wrong place for the layout we want. We'd like to better understand options for better wall insulation.

Hi everyone, We are about to embark on a major remodel and renovation of a 1990s timber framed bungalow and hope to make it as energy efficient as possible. It's a bit run down at the moment and looks a bit sad but it has a lot of potential. Hopefully we can fix it. It's not a fix it and flog it project but somewhere we intend to stay. Glad to have found this place and please bear with us if we ask lots of stupid questions!