Willl

Hi, not sure if the photos show but the wooden window ledge has a gap at the back where it meets the aluminium window. I'm thinking that I need to deal with this - otherwise condensation from the window will go into this gap and cause problems. Not sure the best way to go about this though and wanted to ask if anyone has any ideas? Thanks in advance! Will

Thanks all - points taken on board and to address a couple - The way the loft company have their business set up, their money is in the deposit you pay and you then pay the trades they arrange to do the job. This obviously leaves the customer with limited leverage! I've had a few things that I've had to push with them to get sorted and just trying to decide how much to challenge them on this.. As well as the wall not being level, I am worried the line between the old and new wall will be clearly visible after decorating and not able to be hidden by filling and sanding / feathering.. Can anyone advise what would need to be done to improve the situation / make more level? Thanks, Will

Hi, looking for some opinion please and hope I am posting this in the right place. We have recently had a loft conversion and two of the walls where an old wall meets a new wall are not very flat. As (hopefully) shown in the attached photos. If I hold a 6ft long spirit level against the top of the wall, the gap at the bottom of the spirit level measures more than 3cm! Where the old wall and the new wall meet are clearly visible. There are also places on other walls were plasterboard joints and tape are showing (though I understand that this should be able to be 'got over' via filling and sanding..?) The loft company have told me there is nothing they can do now. I would appreciate opinions on if this is acceptable, how it could be tackled / rectified and how I should approach this. Many thanks in advance! Will

That was discussed but couldnt be faced! Here are the plans if they 'shine any light'? (I'm now thinking it was something they said as part of the 'sell'!) Thanks, Will

Hi, would anyone be able to advise if reclaimed pine boards can be used in a loft conversion please? Checking from the angle of building regs (hence my posting here) but also interested in opinion. 'Tongue and groove high density board' has been quoted for. Thanks, Will

Thanks Russell. With the steels that are going in lower (around floor level) is there anything that can be done? I'm trying to understand what can be done to give more height in a loft conversion when head height is tight.. On the quotation we were given 'sinking the steels' was given but now the builder has turned up he is saying that its not a thing..! Will

Hi, is sinking / embedding the steels (if height in a loft conversion is tight) a thing / something that can be done? Thanks, Will

Thanks all! Is it possible to tell from the above images if these slates could be reused? Will

I feel like I have been let down by the council here; as the extension is certainly "overbearing". Unfortunately, I feel I have let myself down too - as I should have challenged before it was constructed and its too late! (My understanding being that unless it is considerably different to the approved plans nothing will be done / enforced.. )

I'm trying to understand how planning permission is given for a structure that once the parapet is built, is close to 4m high, when the councils published guidance is: • However as a general rule, extensions extending up to 3m in length should be no more than 3m in height on the boundary. • Extensions which exceed this length and exceed a height of 2.5m on the boundary are unlikely to be supported. • Where a pitched roof is proposed, the ridge height should be visibly lower than the sill of any first floor windows. (minimum of 2 or 3 brick courses) • Extensions should not overlook or have an overbearing or enclosing effect on adjacent properties by way of their height, position or depth The property is also on a slight elevation which increases its impact.

Thanks Redbeard. Yes a neighbour and PP. Will

With planning permission granted for a rear extension of 3.3m, a parapet wall can be built that takes the height closer to 4m. Doesn’t seem right but is yes? Thanks, Will

What is making me think about using the old slates, is that there doesn't seem to be a new slate or tile that is considered a 'go to' or superior..? Don't want to discard something that is of better quality..

How about the idea of using the existing tiles? I do understand that I will have to potentially pay extra for the tiles on the back and side to be carefully removed and sorted between good and worn but worth it if this is good quality old slate yes? Also, to add some warm roof insulation to help keep some head height in this part of the conversion..? Sensible or also silly? Many thanks, Will

Understood; with the age of the roof and the house I'm presuming it is old Welsh slate we have and that is what has made me think about trying to keep it.. Thanks, Will

Hi, I will be having a hip to gable loft conversion with a dormer on the back and am unsure what to do about the roof at the front. Presently, I have an agreement with the builders that they will replace any damaged slates they find but I don’t want to regret not having the roof redone while scaffolding is up.. It is an old slate roof, with no felt or similar underneath. I have had problems in a couple of places at the back, where slate has slipped leaving gaps and consequently water damage to the ceilings below. I haven’t had these problems at the front. My thoughts are to ask the builders for a price to carefully remove the slate on the side and back (keeping any that are good) to then remove the tiles on the front and then lay a breathable membrane, before retiling using the existing good tiles. I’m guessing batten will need to be replaced in places.. A sizeable job with a sizeable cost I’m guessing.. Any opinion on if I should just stick to the agreement to replace damaged slates? The hip to gable section of the roof will be retiled as part of the conversion and two large Velux windows will be fitted. My understanding is that it is often the nails that fail, rather than the tiles themselves, so should I try and have an agreement that the roof is assessed overall and loose slates made secure? My primary worry is water coming through, with this no longer coming straight onto the ceiling, I’m guessing this would be onto the insulation that is required to be fitted above the plaster board. Is it possible to have insulation that would do a similar job to the membrane and give a certain level of protection from water ingress? Lastly, if I did have retiled with a membrane would it be possible to insulate as a warm roof and therefore save some head height in this part of the conversion? The rafters are 100mm so I understand for a cold roof, insulation would need to be added into what would be head height. Apologies for any ignorance displayed here and thanks in advance for any opinion and advice! Will

Thanks all. I think we will go for a set of 'slide and turn' of doors, with a wide single piece glass balustrade (it appears you can get these beyond 3m in width) and give the flat roof lights in the bathroom and bedroom a miss, as they could create heat problems in the summer.. Best, Will

Funny how communicating on something can give you some clarity..! I apologize for my stupidity here regarding the door / window question - of course the window - unless a bi fold window or similar would have a frame and therefore never present a fully 'open' space! If anyone has any opinion on flat roof lights / panels in a loft that would be much appreciated! Will

My understanding is that the loft will be covered within permitted development and the builder undertaking the work has suggested a building controller who they work with. I recognize that I should try and have a good relationship with them and I think you are telling me that I need to make sure with them that any choices are within regs. What I am trying to do at this stage, is ascertain if flat roof lights are a good idea in a loft dormer and the advantages of doors in the dormer room over large windows.. Cheers, Will

Yes horizontal flat roof lights / panels into the dormer roof that will be created, is what I am trying to decide on.. The Velux into the front sloping roof seem nice and straight forward and we will have two in the front room and one above the stairs. And yes, the external glass balustrade and doors opening internally but what I am trying to 'get my head around' is how is this better or really much different from fixed windows up to a height of 800mm and then above that a couple of big windows that could open outwards. I guess the mullions would be potentially wider.. (I think I have got this 800mm figure correct for the minimum height an opening window must be from the floor and a glass balustrade would need to be 1100mm.) Regarding the BC application I wont be doing the building work myself - only the more straight forward DIY type bits! Many thanks, Will

Hi, I am currently planning a loft conversion and would like to gauge opinion on the appropriateness of flat glass roof lights / panels if possible please. I believe one above the stairs is considered wise; as will bring light onto and downstairs. We are toying with the idea of one above the bath in the loft bathroom and possibly one in the dormer bedroom.. We like the idea of more light, being able to look up into the sky, added ventilation (if openers) and am I right in thinking, due to how these are fitted / sit in the ceiling some extra head height where they are? The disadvantages seem to be solar gain (these two rooms would be east facing), cost and potentially keeping them clean? The bathroom will have a large window and for the dormer room, we are trying to decide on either large windows or doors that open across the 3m opening. Interested on any opinions here too; it feels as doors will make the room feel more open to the garden when open, even though the glass balustrade required is not that different to a fixed window.. Any views or thoughts on further things to consider here would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance, Will

A 'complete new lump' being a new door made to measure? We would love a full height pattern 10 door but the concern is if the frame would hold such a thing.. The full height is 2475. Thanks Will

Thanks for your reply Mr Punter but with it being a pattern 10 door with a slim wooden frame and mostly glass there wouldn't be much wood to cut down..? The desire is also to try and do something with the (problem) frame rather than 'laying into' a new door.. It would be good to have everything looking a bit straighter..! It would like to lose the piece of the frame that separates the top window and the door and the top window itself - to have a taller door but I am not sure the frame wood support such a tall door..? Best, Will

Hi, we would like to replace our external kitchen door with a pattern 10 wooden door. We are thinking an engineered hardwood door rather than a solid wood door, as my understanding is that this should expand and contract less than a solid wooden door. Not to mention the much more modest price tag! The closest standard size is 1981 x 762 but our issue is that the wooden frame is all over the place! I have attached some pictures as it is visible to the eye but to give an idea - the height of the opening for the door on one side measures 1970 and on the other 1990. Width wise, at the top the measurement is 774 but at the bottom 760. A spirit level also indicates that everything is off.. Can anyone give an opinion as to whether it is possible to fit a new (and hopefully straight!) door into a frame that is far from? We want to avoid a new frame as it is large (housing two windows) and in good condition. Many thanks in advance! Will

Okay, thanks guys - it seems that I should get new plans drawn up or at least theses plans checked and amended to make sure I satisfy current building regs.. It is interesting that these plans do not show enough height on the stairs and landing and I think in the rooms too..? Looking at other loft conversions on the street some seem to be slightly higher than the central ridge.. would this contradict this permitted development rule though? Must not exceed the height of the existing roof. Thanks again! Will