Siggles

Hiya. I had Samsung, via a third party, come and replace the PCB board about a year ago. It worked fine for months, then I had one case of the relay getting stuck, flicked it, and that was it until the last couple of days when it has happened again. So a 2nd PCB with the same issue. Did you ever get the same issue?

I have one zone that has felt cold on the return pipe (and that piece of pipe is the only one that isnt the same colour as the others - ie, isnt blue - from the inhibitor). That room has not been heating well. I saw a few air bubbles moving round so feel it must be trapped air. I increased the flow rate on the flow meter to 5L and lots more bubbles shot round. Suddenly the return pipe now feels hot. Could that be enough to remove the trapped air do you think?

I went a year with this issue, the fan was kaput, they even sent a Dimplex engineer out with another fan, but it was another 2nd hand one and that too had issues. Truth is, they didn't and don't make the part anymore, and weren't intending to. The unit model is now no longer on their website. I do worry about other people with this same unit. For many months of the year I was plugging in the water tank to the plug socket and heating my hot water that way. Luckily it wasn't recently when electricity is 3 times as much as I was paying back then. Anyhow, after all said and done, Dimplex actually paid for a new unit - made by Samsung - and sent a third party out to fit it - including a new Samsung control panel. All for free. So I was very lucky, but it took some nagging and emails to the CEO and posts on Twitter etc. Which I felt was justified. Hope this helps someone in the same boat.

This is from Joule who also suggest high figure on right.

Haha. I took a peek and mine was 90kwh yesterday. I do have a 16kw one and a 5 bed house though. Yikes.

I'm guessing you'd water the Water Outlet higher than 40 degrees when temp outside is 2 degrees? I had this problem and in one of the settings the numbers were back to front, so that it worked harder in the Summer. My Water Outlet temp is now 50 on a day like today when it is -2 outside. I can point you in the direction of some videos etc to help get to the setting to check it if you want?

I'm so chuffed to have finally got the rads to a good temperature - I honestly thought it was just that the ASHP was incapable of getting them hot, but in hindsight that's ridiculous. I think all along I could have raised it anyway using the 0.5 increments on the control panel but I'd rather it working as it should have using Water Compensation/Law. When it was set incorrectly, it would have made the radiators hotter in the summer (if they were actually on), in other words the curve or graph was the wrong way round. There's still YT videos online giving the wrong advice. Woke up this morning and the Water Outlet temp is 50c, temp outside -2. There's a room in the old part of the house with one rad that usually doesn't increase it in temp on really cold days, today it is 🙂 Whoop whoop!

Thank you. It was more about whether *202 figures were the wrong way round. I feel they must have been as the Water Outlet figure was never above 40, even on very cold days. So the rads never got much past Luke Warm - I only have one thermostat for all rads in different parts of the house BTW. By swapping the numbers round, the Water Outlet temp is now at 46 and climbing and the rads are hot. I just want confirmation I've done the right thing. Someone else who has it set this way before I can be sure I've done it right.

I agree but the rads were not doing anything at all. In temps like today -2 for example, they were luke warm. I just swapped the settings and now the Water Outlet shows 42.2 and rising. I'm chuffed tbh, also annoyed it took so long for me to look in to it and annoyed the installer set it wrong.

Gonna give it a try. I raised the figure on the right to over 40 and my rads have never been so hot.

This is from the manual, if you look at 202* it says the higher number should be on the right. This contradicts a lot of YouTube videos from experts (but not all). So seems mine is back to front, which explains a lot.

Hi. I have a mixture of rads and UFH and a 16kw Gen 6 Samung ASHP, only a year or so since installation. The UFH is all in the newer parts of the house, well insulated etc, the rads in the older parts. I am looking for someone who knows these systems well, in particular the Samsung Gen 6 control panel and setting the correct Water Law settings. There are conflicting videos on YouTube regarding what to set for 202* Water Out Temp, Low: Target value and High: Target Value. Some vids say high number on lef and some say vice versa. Any experts on this controller and setup? If you look at the attached image, that is what it was set to for the last year. I just upped the right figure to over 40- and the rads are now hotter. But some say the numbers should be reversed?!

So I took the plunge, unscrewed the flow meter, no leaks from manifold or old flow meter, put in new and now working again. 🙂

Hi, I got a leak in a flow meter on top of my manifold. It looks like it comes from the glass itself as the drip forms at the top. Ive bought spares and hoped I'd be able to swap it out myself. I've isolated the manifold, I have electric actuators (in the NC position) and I've depressurised. However, all four flow meters have water in them still. If I unscrew the flow meter will that water not discharge? My main worry is that I have a Heatmiser wiring centre underneath and the previous leak already ran in to that. Poor design. Thanks Siggles

Hi, is it common for Flow Meters on UFH manifolds to develop leaks in the sight glass? It looks like a small pin size hole in the top as the drip forms at the top and runs down. This will be the second one in a year. As my manifold is above a Heatmiser Wiring Centre, looks like the water has run down in to that box and tripped the fuse.