vala

Does anyone know what the w/m2 output is of UFH at 135mm centres in a pug screed? And for what it's worth this is under ply T&G boards, and underlay and carpet (total tog 1.9). Had a check on the Wunda site and they don't specifically list the output when using carpet, just a generic figure.

My builder has come to the point of making the connection between a new waste run into the existing sewer run. He plans on using a plastic 3 socket 90° tee with flexi couplers. However after a conversation with Anglian water's drainage department today he's been told that he needs to use a clay y branch, then a 45° piece before connecting up to the new pipe run. Has anyone ever heard of this? In particular using a clay y branch and 45°? He's a bit puzzled as to why this is the case and is going back and forth with their technical department to get clarification. This is slowing down the build so thought I seek opinions and experience from here. Thanks

Can convert easily enough to 22mm so will get that done. After the softener, and manifold, I'll go into the inlet control group then into the cylinder. I could put a PRV before or straight after the softener so that the cold going to the bathroom, as well as what's feeding the cylinder is all the same pressure?

@JohnMo perfect. thank you for confirming. One thing I have noticed, but haven't paid much attention to till now, is that once the water mains comes into the house there's an adapter and its reduced to 15mm for the stopcock and so forth. I'm guessing that as I currently have a combi this isn't so much an issue, but going forward with an ASHP will this be. Would it be wise to run from where it comes into the house in 22mm? Connection on most of the cylinders I've looked at appears to be 22mm for the cold water inlet and also the DHW. I can always reduce down to 15mm, but I'm assuming sizing up isn't really a done thing?

With regards to the connection onto the CU I've got blank spaces so no issues with having a dedicated circuit. In fact the current oil combi is on its own circuit so I assume sparkie will just replace that. @JohnMo My initial plan is from the cold feed into the house to tee off to the a manifold (for the fridge/hot water tap and heating circuit via the filling loop) and to the water softener. Then out of the softener it goes to another manifold which will go to the cylinder and to the bathroom. Already got these manifolds in the bathroom as a means to have isolation as all the pipework is behind tiles. Done it all in plastic to not have any joins. Sound ok?

I couldn't believe it, but at the same time thought fair play. If you can get the work at that rate why not. Yes. The consumer unit is under the stairs (where the cylinder/UFH manifold/ASHP controls will be) so the new circuit will be run from there. I have had a heat loss survey completed by said installer. More so got this done to see if my own one (using heat engineer app) matched up and confirmed with the installer for a 5kW Arotherm Plus. Can anyone confirm whether these water distribution manifolds would be ok to use?

The other quote I have is higher😳 for the equivalent Vaillant, and even higher for the Veissmann They're both heat geek elites quoting and I think rather then deducting the BUS grant they're just adding it on. I'm not fussed how they're pay structure is, how they run their business is up to them, and they do get work but for me it's just out of budget. And another engineer I didn't get to the quote phase with as they wanted to add a number of zone valves/buffers/not run open loop etc which I dont want.

So I got a quote for an ASHP install by a local heat geek installer and the price is way above what I can afford. After all the parts (at retail cost) it looked like it was £8000 of labour charge, for 10 man days. That matched up to their £120+VAT hourly rate. I'm confident in getting it all plumbed in, and have near enough worked out the shopping list of parts but have a plumber on standby who said he'll help out especially with the bits that require paperwork. My go to sparkie will sort any electrical connections out. One thing I was looking into using was a water distribution manifold after the DHW outlet and also one before the cylinder as I'll have a water softener fitted. The cold softened water would go to the cylinder and upstairs to the bathroom. Is there any issues with using these as a means to provided distribution and isolation? in particular with unvented cylinders?

@Nickfromwales As well as any other members who've used these auto air valves, https://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/emmeti-automatic-air-vent-p-821.html Has anyone come across these leaking from the grey auto venting cap? Noticed this evening that the valve on my return manifold is weeping, and by the looks of it has been for a while. It was left slightly loose as per the instructions for the auto venting to work. The one I've fitted to the flow manifold is still working fine.

Higher humidity in the winter?

I had air build up in the system last time it went through a period of being off and hoping these will help to get rid of the air once the system turns back on this time round. Last time it involved doing a full manual purge of all the loops so hoping this may mean this doesn't need to happen this time round. thanks Nick. 2 have been ordered. Got manual air valves at the moment on the manifold so will just remove those and replace with these. Aside from these there's just a temp gauge on the flow and return on the manifold. Is it worth swapping out one of these gauges for one with a pressure gauge?

Got some manual air valves on my Wunda UFH manifold and wondering if anyone has replaced or could recommend these automatic air valves, https://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/emmeti-automatic-air-vent-p-821.html thanks

I did consider this but again struggled to find anyone to quote. Contacted a fair few but no responses.

Origin have a configurator. You have to have a trade account to get access to it. We've got the OW-70's fitted but as you mentioned these only allow a max of 28mm glazing. I believe it's the OW-80 that accommodates triple glazing from them.

house was built in the 70's. haven't yet confirmed whether there's a structural slab or screed currently in place.