Russ P

Is there’s a certain adhesive you have to use for the vapour boards (foil backed)? trying to stay away from foam backed due to the rooms being small already

I was hoping to avoid batten and board as the 2 of the rooms are small already. The outside is already rendered and painted and I’ve not had damp issues in the 3 years I’ve owned it so far. I was told it was the standard foil backed plaster board that can be dabbed

After some advice/guidance I have stripped a late 1800’s cottage back to brick and currently boarding it. Is there any method to dab a vapour board to the external walls? I was always under the understanding they had to be hardwalled or batten and boarded (not keen on this method as don’t want to loose depth) but was told by someone a few days ago I could dab vapourboard

Thanks for that. I know I know I need a buffer tank but I've looked high and low and without ripping my entire bathroom apart again (not and option lol) I have nowhere for it. i came across a picture finally last night off wunda

It's 2 55metre runs. My boiler is sat right above my ufh manifold in the same room. My main question is.... do I need the circulating pump on the manifold with it being connected to a combi boiler? And to run a thermostat on rad system and thermostat on ufh do I need 2 2port valves?

It's a Worcester boiler so I'm guessing pump is in boiler. do I want a 2 port valve on ufh and 1 on rads? So I can control separate?

Ok I know everyone is going to tell me buffer tank but im looking at the system without a buffer tank. I am planning on running a underfloor heating system in 1 room and rads in rest of house. Running of the boiler with a separate stat on the ufh. It's a combi boiler. do I still need the ufh pump on the manifold and also do I need to put any 2port valves in anywhere to run the 2 Seperate stats

Are they based in telford or is that company name

Telford end???

Them Buffer tanks ain't cheap are they ???

Central heating confuses the shit outta me that's why I leave it to my cousin lol. All I knew is it would be a ball ache to get enough radaitors in that room which is why I chose UFH

Hmm there's no room for a buffer so I suppose I could run it into the current heating system and the just control the radiators on the smart stats. I tend to leave my heating on all day during winter to be fair just on a very low heat all day

It's a Worcester combi Boiler but I leave all that to my cousin as he's a BG engineer. There is only 1 radiator downstairs now which will never be on due to a log burner being installed. And 3 upstairs 1 in each bedroom as bathroom is running electric ufh. I've taken 4 rads of the system but it will only really be 2 of the rooms on as I prefer a cool bedroom. But I am looking at installing a smart stat system throughout the entire heating system so I can control each radiator

I gave myself a target and luckily I met it. Was hoping to get away for a long weekend to the coast but wife was too late booking it??

ill re do it shortly when I get up. It's not being connected to the boiler until next week so I've only done it from the mains just so it wasn't empty. I don't think it's too bad to be fair will just be a few bumps where I very quickly troweled it at the end but it's not being tiled!! It's having golden fossil paving slabs so will be laid on a bed of compo over the winter when I can afford it again

Well had to delay the concrete until 3pm due to plumber not turning up so decided at midday to pressurise it myself. Now sat at 3bar concrete laid and trouled! Not fussed with finish off concrete as got some free self leveller which will level the finish

Yeah maximum 10mm aggregate. I've only been in the job 5months and we don't supply screed so couldn't advise on a shower tray mix unfortunately

C30 will be more than enough with added fibres. And it's not a big company yet they've only been trading 6years so still a local based company around Shropshire

Oh I've also ordered concrete with 10mm gravel with fibres. I work for the concrete company so hopefully have a nice discount lol

The mesh will be off the deck when concrete is poured ??

Mainly because of the awkward layout of the room i ran the different layout options in loopcad and the method your talking about had 3 very tight bends in it. So I opted to have two runs in the chosen method and both or around 50-60m in length

I wish there was trickery involved lol I wouldn't be so [ever so slightly tired] ! ???

so finished insulating and got all my pipework laid.

Ive bought the slightly more expensive concrete mesh men from TP. As for the mesh height it shouldn't be any higher as it sits into the stands so hopefully to top of pipe will be 56-66mm! Finished digging today and started DPM and insulation! Got a bit of drainage work to do first thing then get rest of insulation down! Target for tomorrow is all pipework laid

So today was the start of the floor dig. Managed to get a breaker on what turned out to be a 4 inch quarry tile and concrete slab to expose the soil base. Tomorrow we dig down the final 5-6 inches