Indy

£2k sounds virtually impossible unless I source odds and sods off eBay myself - which implies I would know what's needed. Even the most basic unit from BPC without cooling was £4200 (Vent Axia) which then climbs up to £5800 for Zenhnder. That's the parts only without install.

Current plans are for a masonry build and SAP calcs include MVHR + cooling option. Not passive house but BR specs and airtightness target of 3 (I think). After speaking to a local builder, we’re leaning towards a timber frame build (MBC maybe) for speed mainly. Wanted to understand what the implications would be if I decided not to go for an MVHR system – mainly for cost. It seems to be adding about £10k+ to the build cost and to be fair – I’d rather use it for an air con system. Not seeing the payback apart from the comfort option and my personal feeling is that the comfort I get from having heating/cooling/dehumidification from an air con system is going to work better for me. What would it mean for the windows – do I have to add trickle vents or is there another way to overcome this requirement in a generally airtight build? I assume not going for MVHR would trigger a new as built SAP calc to be done at the end of the build, but as long as we achieve the same or higher in terms of overall efficiency – that should be ok?

From what I've been told - a freestanding appliance is not eligible for zero VAT. So an American style freestanding fridge/freezer would not qualify but integrated appliances would as they are 'built into the fabric' rather than just unplug and take it away types.

Yeah - nothing in materials and I don't have the exact breakdown, but adds about £500/slab in labour to achieve that finish. I wasn't aware that it existed until we saw it in a showroom in a very run down area.

Very much the way we went with it as well, including the mitred joint and also shark nosed edge for the worktops (which adds a fair bit of labour). We did have a tambour unit (I didn't know what it was called - I just used to call it the 'shutter/roller' cabinet) but it went away in the final design when we added the larder which will have a slide out shelf to be used for things like the coffee machine, kettle, toaster etc.

Yes, Self build so the VAT is claimable - apart from any freestanding appliances which seem to be excluded. So it looks like we'll have to pay it on the washing machine/dryer. Unless we go for integrated ones but then the cost of the surrounding cabinetry probably makes it about even anyway! Price wise - yeah, been to a few places and apart from a place that wanted to quote us £50-70k for a Hacker kitchen (same layout) - I haven't found anything cheaper. Not tried Howdens/Magnet etc as we like the German kitchen look. The reason I'm hesitating is that I think it's a little too much to pay for MDF cabinets - albeit very nice ones with top quality hinges and lights etc. We've also got a fair number of drawers, a double door larder and storage on both sides of the island, all of which didn't help the price.

The price I've quoted above is for cabinetry alone for the kitchen and utility. Appliances are around £6500 ex VAT (need to finetune these as they've put in some really expensive ones as a default) Worktops (Quartz) - for the island, waterfall edge, splashback etc - £8700 inc VAT Kitchen/Utility fitting is around £5.2k - which is not too dissimilar from what our builder ones so we may go with the recommended fitters. To provide an idea of the space - here's a few images of the kitchen/utility space

For those that went with local companies that made bespoke kitchens, can I check how pricey it was compared to one of the high street brands or the German options? I haven't really looked at this option even though it does sound very tempting but have it in my head that a bespoke kitchen would work a lot more expensive than an off the shelf one...

Yes please, that'd be great. Happy to receive details via message. Re Schmidt - not yet, but it's on the list before we finalise. There's one not too far in Wimbledon too but we just haven't made it to them yet.

Looks like they sell the Nobilia range. Have you used them personally and any feedback to share?

I’m in the KT10 postcode area - Surrey/Elmbridge.

We like the design as it's tailored to what we want. Several hours and visits spent with multiple companies and online planners to come up with that. Re the MDF - it's a fair shout and I do have some reservations. But we can't seem to find a handleless kitchen in the finish we want with solid wood doors. The alternative is a shaker style kitchen - which we don't want (or particularly like the look of). The sales patter from the kitchen showrooms is that laminate doors are better because they're not subject to expansion/contraction etc. What would you suggest as an alternative?

Looking at 3 German kitchen brands for our new place and finding it hard to decide between them. 1. Nobilia - £19.5k - seems like the entry level option 2. Bauformat - £20.5k - a slight step up in quality (acc to the sales person) from Nobilia for about 5% ish more. 3. Leicht - £32k - the most expensive and I'm not sure how much difference there is between Bauformat and Leicht. Would love to hear people's personal experiences with any of these brands? Designs are all fairly similar.

I looked into this and seems an impressive product and would get rid of a lot of the hassle with regards to getting builders to do the right thing. I've had a quote from them - looks like they do it solely based on floorspace and it's coming in at just a shade over £3k ex VAT! Seems like a pretty high number and I'm sure there are cheaper ways to achieve the airtightness?

Can I ask for an opinion on the option to go for a Lewis deck on the 1st floor ? This would be covered with a thin layer of screed which gives the floor a little more solidity, acoustic insulation (which I want to prevent noise transferring across floors) and a little better fire prevention capabilities. This was something the architect and I had discussed a long time ago and agreed but due to the whole process dragging on far longer than anticipated - was mostly missed in the pack I have so far. The SE design will need to be redone, the 1st floor height has been done at 2422 to account for normal floors and 22mm UFH system, whereas Lewis deck would mean I need to give up an extra 27mm of headheight as the system with UFH will come in at 52mm vs the 25mm of the existing option. Has anyone does this and does it really work? This is the one we're considering LEWIS-Metal-decking-brochure-2022-EN-web.pdf

Thank you @Iceverge - that's a really terrific input and lots of food for thought. I will admit I don't know what the difference is between yours and the one I posted originally apart from the areas where there's greater insulation and wall depth, and therefore assuming U-Values must be better. I take your point about buildability and cost as well. The tough part will be how do I get this all incorporated in my BR drawings as it could mean redoing a lot of the work that has already been done and I'm really at a point where I want to finalise the pack and start tendering the work out!

No, there is a room behind it which is my study and this gives extra headroom and there's a skylight in that room on that flat dormer. Because I hate creaking stairs in our current house and the original thought was to build an ICF house with concrete stairs, walls and floors. Moved away from this due to cost reasons but decided to keep the concrete stairs requirement. This would go well with the Lewis deck and screed floors that I'm planning for the 1st floor. Have the option of either though - and my initial quote of a pre-cast staircase wasn't as horrible as I was expecting. £4k including delivery but it would need cladding and installation etc. Getting quotes for timber stairs ranges from £3-4k for pine to about £10-12k for hardwood oak stairs - so the differential isn't as large as I was expecting, though this is all desktop research for now. We'll finalise which route to go when we get firmer prices back on either option and the SE designs/calcs we have cater for both.

Same for us - it's really there for wow factor more than actual utility. It will come on for about a week between Christmas and New year (based on the usage of our current gas fire) when we have friends and family over for entertaining and showing off. Not really meant to be the primary or even secondary heating system.

I am keen on having an airtight house though we're working towards a target of 3.5 at the design stage. It's something I will discuss with the main contractor and stress on as the build goes on. However, we do like to open the windows from time to time and the sliding doors are pretty non negotiable I have to say. Wood burner is something I like (as do both the boys) so I guess it will stay but I've been told you can get chimney stacks that aid airtightness when not being used?

What alternatives should I look at? Somewhat by design - given that BR is already a huge step up. I'm not too keen on losing internal space and we're limited on how far out we can go as we need to leave a 1m gap on either side of the property from the fence line. I have to admit I will need to spend time understanding all of this - though I assume VCL is a Vapour Control Layer?

I have heard the same re cost of wet plaster vs dot and dab being the same from a contractor I spoke to - just a little more work for the plasterer. However, my architect is convinced this was more expensive and would increase the drying time by several months - which would mean we couldn't paint the property or to expect cracking for at least 6m afterwards. So we changed tack to parge coat and dot and dab as a compromise.

Yes, wet UFH currently planned on both floors.

Taken your advice - separate thread started here

Following the recommendation on another thread, putting up the details of my build here to ask for recommendations on things can be improved. We're not aiming for a Passivhaus level of spec, as the law of diminishing returns means that the payback probably is not worth it. Aiming for a Building Regs compliant comfortable family home - and this is going to be a massive step up from a 1930s semi with no cavity wall (where we currently live). Ground floor is Beam and Block, and First floor is 225mm posi joist, Lewis deck with screed (for more stability). 2 sets of sliding doors (4.1m wide each) at the back which is West facing. Putting in ASHP, MVHR, in roof Solar panels (battery to be added later), 300l water tank + 100l buffer OR 400l water tank (3 bathrooms and cloak room), UFH heating on both floors including bathrooms, some form of air con in the 4 bedrooms and living/dining area (5 in total), Towel radiators with electric element in bathrooms. No carpets in the house - tiles in the hallways and living/dining areas and engineered wood in the bedrooms. My main questions are: 1. Given that this is a block and block build - how do we target airtightness? The 2 options I'm looking at are either Parge coat and dot and dab plasterboard (cheaper and faster to put up) Wet plaster though I've been told this will be more expensive, take longer and also reduce thermal efficiency which means speccing thicker insulation in the external walls. 2. What are the other things that are easily addressable given the details below to make it more efficient, without drastically altering the spec? Floor construction: U Value = 0.14 W/m².K 65mm. sand: cement screed 500g. Polythene separation layer 120mm. Celotex XR4000 insulation Polythene DPM Concrete beam & block floor to manufacturer's design Wall construction: U Value = 0.15 W/m².K Render 100mm. Thermalite Hi Strength 7 blockwork 50mm. clear cavity 100mm. Celotex CW4000 insulation 100mm. Thermalite Hi Strength 7 blockwork 12.5mm. plasterboard on dabs dry lining, plus skim Pitched roof construction (insulation at rafter level): U Value = 0.11 W/m².K Roof tiles 25x46mm. treated tiling battens 25x46mm. treated counterbattens LR Breathable roofing membrane 150mm. rafters fully filled with 150mm. Celotex XR4000 insulation 25x47mm. battened services void beneath rafters Celotex PL4060 (60+12.5) insulated plasterboard plus skim Proprietary felt support tray Pitched roof construction (insulation at ceiling level): U Value = 0.11 W/m².K Roof tiles 25x46mm. treated tiling battens 25x46mm. treated counterbattens LR Breathable roofing membrane 150mm. rafters Unventilated loft space 19mm. plywood decking or flooring plywood for loft storage 75mm. Celotex GA4000 insulation above ceiling joists 150mm. ceiling joists fully filled with 150mm. Celotex XR4000 insulation Visqueen High Performance vapour barrier 12.5mm. plasterboard plus skim COLD Flat roof construction: U Value = 0.11 W/m².K GRP weather surface 18mm. plywood deck Firrings to give 1:40 fall 195mm. joists with 150mm. Celotex XR4000 between joists 90mm. Celotex GA4000 insulation below joists 12.5mm. plasterboard plus skim

Thanks, all valid points. I'm in the process of getting quotes and a lot of them come with the Surrey uplift applied. One quote we had for all the heating/cooling/PV/MVHR/UFH/basic automation was in the region of £80k! I'll be doing my own research and possibly getting the designs done separately and then get the builder to do it. The answer to the other question is that I won't be doing too much myself - until the money runs out I guess! Young kids and a very hectic job means I'll have most of the work being done by a main contractor, though my plan is to do as much procurement as possible to find the best prices on things.