Joe87

Ok, I've done a "dry" lay and marked up on the floor and can now see the cuts for the front and back row. I think it'll look fine. Especially as those areas are going to be covered with sofas, heating etc. The tapered boards that I'll have to cut are not as extreme as I thought they would be so I'm happy with how it'll come out. I appreciate the help. Thanks very much all.

Hi, I'm planning on laying some laminate flooring in my summer house. I've seen online that you start in one corner against the wall and work from there. The problem I have is the summer house isnt exactly made to 90 degree angles on the walls so the boards at the front of the building would be off from the back. Not by alot but enough to see. Should I place the first plank slightly away from the wall to start, so I get my 1st laminate row as a straight line and then fill the edges with cut boards? Or is there another way of doing it? So basically I won't start flush against the wall as I've seen online in nice perfectly 90 degree angle walled rooms. I hope this makes sense. Thanks for any help 👍

400mm centres. So fairly close together. Is this what you used? If so did you have downlights? 6mm is fairly good. I may have a load of that already.

Hi, At the moment in my garage/ workshop I have the roof joists on show. I am planning to maybe nail up some thin ply board. How thin is to thin? I was hoping to not have it to thick if possible. Although there will be downlights in the ceiling that will need to be held up. Will 3mm ply for example start to sag?? Thanks Joe

Its for a garden room. I already have a cement base and was planning on laying a vapour barrier, 100mm insulation (to bring the floor up to the door so there isn't a step) and then two lots of 11mm for strength. That's the plan anyway. I did use some of the glue on two bits of OSB and its stuck solid. Couldn't pull it apart at all, so i think it'll be more then enough for the floor. Would this impact expansion and contraction etc of the wood if they're glued together so solid?

Hi, Probably a dumb question, but I plan to screw and glue 11mm OSB boards one on top of the other at 90 degrees angles for a floor. This is the dumb question; I have some contact adhesive left over from the rubber roof construction. Can I use this for the glue part?? Obviously it'll be used to glue the two sets of boards together before being screwed down. No problem if not, I just like to try and use what I have. Thanks for any help Joe

Thanks for all your help. This is brilliant information to mull over. Thanks again! Happy New year

Would this floor have the strength to carry something like a pool table? What thickness osb should I go for. 2 layers up to 18mm or something? Thanks for all the replies this is really helpful. Doing it this way would be alot simple without having to bother with joists etc.

Really!? Never heard that as a way of doing it, but would make life easier. The concrete slab is large enough that it was never leveled out when they poured it (probably laziness on their part). The concrete is about 10 meters by 5 meters.

The plan is to put osb on top of the joists and then a laminate or wood floor or something on top of the osb.

Hi all. I'm close to starting floor construction for my garden room. I have a concrete base about 8 inches deep and was planning on putting down DPM over the top and up the walls to the DPC level in the walls. Then I was planning to put the joists on top of this, leveling and then insulating in between the joists with rigid insulation boards and then a wood floor over the top. Is this OK? I've read about having a floated timber floor so there is a gap below the joists. Is this a must? I was hoping the DPM would prevent damp getting in? Thanks for any help.

Hi all, Probably a silly question. Should i cut my fascia board to match the pitch of my flat roof? If so how do i go about this? I was planning on having the bottom level all the way across the side and then scoring the inside top of the fascia board in line with the pitch of the roof and cutting along with a circular saw to get the shape? So the fascia would be the same level across the bottom and go with the pitch along the top. Kerb trims etc would be added then to finish off. If i did this im assuming id have to get a smaller width fascia board for the back of the building to line it up with the side fascias? Thanks for any help.

Good point, it's the silly things you forget. I'm hoping with the top deck being strapped to it aswell as the joists etc that it'll make it stronger. I'll be sure to check this all out as I go and change accordingly.

The joists slightly come above the wall so they are not actually flush with the top of the wall. However, this is sort of what i was thinking aswell. Ive actually added a wooden batten the same thickness as the insulation around the outside of the building in a box shape and attached these to the sub deck and the insulation is on the inside of that. So i could also use that as an "anchor point" for the overhang pieces, screwing from the inside of the batten and into the overhang pieces. So they would be potentially attached and secured to the wall, top part of the joist with a connector plate perhaps, the wooden (insulation) batten and then have the top deck over them and have that screwed through the top. Surely that would make them plenty strong enough for uplift etc? Id rather overbuild it and make sure its secure. Cant really think of a better way of doing it unless there is something that im not thinking of. On a side note, how did you come by those images? Were they from some software you had??

Hi all, I have a flat roof on a garden room which i was hoping to put an overhang on so i could have some downlights along the front and side. The problem i have is, to keep the facia board smaller (it was originally going to be 50cm+ high, because of it being a warm roof and would have looked terrible in my opinion) the joists were put onto wall hangers rather then on top of the actual wall. This reduced the facia to more like 30cm. Now ive decided i want an overhang (because i like to make life hard for myself) but im unsure how to go about this? Usually the joists would just overhang the front however far i needed, but because they are lower on the inside of the wall im not to sure how i would attach an overhang now? Could i attach the overhang to the top of the actual wall itself and then put the top deck over the top of the over hang and attach it to that aswell, drilling straight down into the noggins to secure it? I hope this makes sense and someone can help me out with any ideas. This is why Noobs shouldnt start these projects!! haha ?. Thanks for any help

As a side question, do I need to still attach the joist hangers onto a wall plate on the top of the block and also what joist Hanger would be a good one for 9 x 2 joists? Thanks.

Those guys have agreed with me I think... But they aren't willing to help me do it!

Good, im glad its not just me then. I cant bring myself to like it that big. I'd rather the extra work. Been enough work getting this far. Dont want to F it up now? I might just go ahead with this idea then. I cant see it Impeading anything else.

HI all, Ive put elsewhere about the fascia on my warm roof summer house coming to about 50cm due to the 6 meter 9x2 joists, insulation, furrings for a 1:40 drop, osb board etc etc. I think 50cm is going to look way to big. Ive tried to get around it but with the furrings and wanting to make sure the drop on the flat roof is decent enough i cant figure out a way to have it any thinner. The only way that ive now thought to make the fascia about 30-35cm, is to add another row of blocks around the entire summer house and put the joists onto joist hangers on the new top block inside. Both the block and the joist are the same height so they would work well together. That way all the extras (osb, furrings etc) will almost look as if they are sitting on the top of the wall rather then way above it by 50cm or so and the whole thing will have a tidier finish with the fascia, making it look alot smaller. I was then thinking i could add an overhang to two sides of the building which are on show using joist hangers and a ledger board and just add osb to the top of this in line with the top osb of the warm roof and rubber roof over the whole thing so it all blends in??...Hope that makes sense. Does this sound like an ok plan or am i being to anal about all this haha...(do i want an answer to that). I think a thinner fascia will make the whole thing look alot nicer. Thanks for any help. Either what you think on my "plan" or if anyone has any other ideas. Cheers

If I did use a 1:40 furring strip at about 5 meters, a website I was on to buy at this size has it running from 130mm to 5mm. That's fine but this brings the fascia to about 48-50cm high? Does that sound to big or is that a normal sounding size for a fascia? It looks big by tape measure but I find these things hard to visualise haha. It has to be done right, but I still want a certain amount of aesthetics ??. Unless there is other ways of doing things.

Me again with another random/ dumb question ?? I'm close to getting started on the warm flat roof. Been a little bit on account of trying to figure in a steel lintel and corner window...oh and the British "summer". I've watched a load of YouTube and read plenty but realised that I don't actually know where the final side joists go? Do they sit on the inside/outside of the block wall or just on the inside of the wall. Also does the side wall need a wall plate put on it? I was planning on putting the final side joists on the outside of the block wall and insulating inside against it. Hope that makes sense. Thanks all... Again. I appreciate all the help

Excellent, that's exactly what I had in mind so I'm glad to hear someone else has done it. I'll need a wooden beam on inside and outside of I beam anyway so it makes sense to wrap over and nail to both sides. Don't suppose you know what hangers you used??

Thankyou for the link!! That's just what I needed. Have been looking at hangers and wondering if you could adjust them or not. This is really helpful. Thanks. The joists need to be higher up on the face board so being able to wrap over makes it alot easier.

From looking more at it today I agree that this seems an easier way of doing it. What size bolts would you suggest nod? Also I need the joists to be slightly higher then the steel beam to bring it into line with the joists that will be on the walls to either side. Do I achieve this by putting a length of timber of whatever thickness needed, across the top of the steel beam and attaching the top of the hangers to that to get the joist height? Alot of the hangers seem to only allow for the joists to be aligned with the timber its attached to. Again, I hope that makes sense. Thanks for the help and suggestion aswell.

Hi All, I need to connect some 9 x 2 roof joists for a warm roof inside an i beam that spans across the 4 meter door i have. Ive seen a few ways of doing it but wondered which way people thought was best/ had done themselves. If you look at the photo, i was planning to have some wood under the joist across the bottom of the I beam (sitting under all the joists at this point to bring them up to the block walls either side so the roof is level) and then cutting a section of the top of the joist so it sits flush against the back of the Steel plate. Does this sound like an ok way to do it? If so, obviously i cant strap the wall plate down to a wall like i would the other joists so how do i make sure this is all tight? Do i need to drill from the other side of the i beam through to the joists and bolt them in? Im assuming just having them "wedged" isnt going to be enough. The other end of the joists will be on wall plates and strapped down against the wall. Thanks for any help. I hope that all makes sense. Cheers Joe