-
Posts
13 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Personal Information
-
Location
Newcastle upon Tyne
Recent Profile Visitors
The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.
dawsonhousehold's Achievements

Member (3/5)
3
Reputation
-
Thanks for the input, I haven’t seen one of those before. I see, I can hire one of these "pictured" however we are saying remove the flexible adhesive with one of these then try my best to get the boards up without damaging the subfloor. I dare say I could get it into the on-suite. it’s just a small room with probably 2 1/2 meters of floor in total, I probably could just wield that round...
-
Hi everyone, I'm in the middle of a DIY project and could really use some advice. I'm removing old tiles that were laid down with a huge amount of flexible adhesive – it's practically like concrete! The tiles are breaking into dozens of bits because they’re stuck down so well. The floor was also overboarded, and in some places, I’ve managed to lift the overboarding, revealing the green moisture-resistant subfloor beneath. I'm about 70-80% of the way through lifting the tiles, but the remaining adhesive is so thick that scraping it back feels like an impossible task. I’m concerned about causing unnecessary damage to the green subfloor if I continue trying to lift all the overboarding and scrape the adhesive. I plan to lay vinyl flooring with its own underlay after this. My question is:- Would it be better to stop removing the overboarding and instead have a self-levelling screed applied over the remaining adhesive and overboarding before laying the vinyl? Has anyone had success with this approach for vinyl floors? Any tips or considerations when working with this much adhesive and a subfloor like this? I’d really appreciate any advice or experiences you can share! Thanks in advance.
-
Sorry, another realistic build costs post!
dawsonhousehold replied to dawsonhousehold's topic in Costing & Estimating
Thanks for all the replies, haven’t visited for a little while. The plot prices are what they are here and yes that is the stumbling block as I didn’t want to get too deep in "Again!" I’ve been on the estate 20 years and as the houses come up for sale they are updated or knocked down. The problem with Russel Griffiths comment is that there are lots of million-pound houses here and there are only so many millionaires to buy them! (in the north anyway) I’ve included a picture the most expensive a couple of streets away. A little too overdeveloped for my liking (21,000 Sq ft) -
Sorry, another realistic build costs post!
dawsonhousehold replied to dawsonhousehold's topic in Costing & Estimating
All good comments, thank you all for your candour and for your prompt replies. I think the reality of £1,500 per m2 as Moonshine said is more realistic and though the plot and prices in the area aren’t an issue it’s, do I want to end up £750K in. Really, I didn’t. I think I may end up having a frank discussion with my wife that we should consider taking the house off the market (expecting an offer on Saturday). There is nothing that I want to move to, and the costs look a little prohibitive. P.S I’ve used the estimator online before (prior to our current redevelopment) and it was the best £150 I’ve ever spent! But I needed more of a feel from you guys. -
Ground worker wants to do works on a day rate.
dawsonhousehold replied to Moonshine's topic in Costing & Estimating
That's good advice. -
Fast approaching is a decision to purchase some land and build a house. We have redeveloped a house before (currently living in and for sale) The land is 1/3 acre and price is in excess of £425,000 lets not get in to the merits of the size of the plot and the price. The land has planning for a large house. I am looking to put (maybe slight changes) but let’s assume for now as is, a smaller house, The Fleming ET.04 – 4 Bedroom (English Traditional) https://www.fleminghomes.co.uk/gallery/house-designs-floor-plans/et-04-4-bedroom/ SIZE FLOOR AREA 243m² FOOTPRINT 135m² I would use Fleming to supply and erect (they are 70 miles away) and probably specify some cheaper windows than their go to. We do not want passive house and would simply be happy with the fact we got it built! In White London stock. I work self-employed, and though I have time and can manage a project, hands on working on the build isn’t what I do best. We do have a team of good grounds men, joiners (father and sons) electricians, plumbers, plasters and roofer, decorators, flooring but no Bricklayer. We would be getting a kitchen form DIY kitchen and purchasing bathroom sanitary ware and plumber to fit. Am I mad to think I could get it done for £275,000? I appreciate all your answers and the time you spend replying Thank you.
-
Knauf Aquapanel Exterior Cement Board
dawsonhousehold replied to dawsonhousehold's topic in Timber Frame
Scratch that, the minimum order is a full pallet of 16 rolls £5,280 + Vat! Any one able to give any advice here, what do other people use? I can’t see anyone buying this unless they are building a large house. -
Hi Guys Just looking to install Knauf Aquapanel Exterior Cement Board on the exterior dormers front and back and wondered if there was a good alternative for the Knauf Aquapanel Exterior Tyvek Water Resistive Barrier. I only need about 10 Boards so around 20 meters and the barrier is sold as a 112m roll at £460! Any help appreciated. Regards Tim
-
The area I live in has separate by-laws. Planning needs to be approved by way of separate committee prior to being handed to the Local Authority. The permitted development rules do not apply. It was building control I was concerned about, and yes they have approved the founds and there are no dimensions on the plans so it looks good to go, I am also well within the separate by-laws regulations.
-
Thank you Just checked with the council office website and the plans have no dimensions on them! So I can’t see that they would even know there has been any change, the wall to the window is slightly closer if you wanted to take it to the extreme. I appreciate you help.
-
Hi all Looking for some experienced advice please. Foundations have been put in and drainage rerouted front and back, signed off by building control. The windows have been removed from the front and boarded up, windows ordered and will be fitted in a couple of weeks’ time (building control will be calling back then, never the same person) I will be starting with the rear elevation then the front and reroofing the property starting May. When the bricklayers have double checked the measurements at the back they have found that (looking from a bird’s eye) the footings are off to the side 300mm. (I did get some ex-convicts to put in the footings, LONG story and building control know there was an issue) I have attached a plan & the width has gone from 1462.5 to 1900 and the length 4040 to 4600. This is a 1/3-acre plot and I could have gone out 10 meters at the back without any problem. Do I:- A:- resubmit a new plan with the amended size to the council in the next week. I have plenty of time. B:- speak to the officer and see if we can continue without re submission? Your advice in this is greatly appreciated. Thanks Tim ground floor.pdf
-
dawsonhousehold changed their profile photo
-
Thank you I bet it looks great, I’m going to post my question. Any help is appreciated.
-
Hi all Looking forward to spending some time round the place. I am starting a renovation project involving new gable to the front & back of the house, new floor to ceiling windows, reroofing and then rendering. I have a great team of separate tradesmen except fell at the first hurdle with an error on the now passed groundworks! I will post the question in the planning permission and building regs as I think that’s where is should go. Tim