DerbyLad

Hi All, My new build will have a beam and block floor. My architect has shown 65mm sand and cement screed. The 1st screed installer I contacted has said I would need 75mm flowing concrete with steel fibres or the floor will bounce. The 2nd installer said not and that I would be best with 50mm standard liquid screed. Any thoughts? Cheers

Hi Guys, Thank you for your replies. Yes, I would have the same problem as @ProDave, the road level is at 133 meters. I questioned the suitability with Future Found but they said it would be fine! My feelings are that it would be a problem and beam and block insulated, as my architect designed, would be better. I was just tempted by this system as it would eliminate the cold bridging at floor level and initially seemed a cheaper option.

Hi All, My house plans currently show a beam and block construction. However, I have been looking at alternative systems and have been looking at 'Future Found' https://www.build-liteuk.co.uk/future-found/ Has anyone any experience with this system or something similar? Diagonally, my plot has a height difference of 2 meters, 132mts to 134mts and my floor level lies between at 133mts

Thanks everyone. Looks like I'm ok with the Plasmor block. Regarding the Marmox block, I have asked my SAP guy for his thoughts on how much difference they would make to wall u-values and my overall SAP. Thank you Vee6 dan it's good to hear they are quite straight forward to lay and yes, just for one course

Hi All, thank you for the replies Sounds like the builders were getting confused with the type of blocks, which is good news in a way! Mr Punter, have you used the Marmox block?

Hi All, My architect has specified 100MM PLASMOR FIBOLITE 3.6N BLOCK for the internal block work on my self build. A few of the builders that have quoted have raised concerns on this type of block saying that they will crack. I have had a few difficulties getting my SAP requirements and can see this opening up old wounds if I was to change this block. Would any of you have experience with this block? Is there an alternative with similar u-values that is stronger? Whilst looking at blocks I came across the Marmox Thermoblock for a single course to aid with thermal bridging. http://www.marmox.co.uk/learning-hub/reducing-thermal-bridging-in-wall-to-floor-junction-designs Has any one used these blocks? Thank you

Hi All, Had a thermal mass calculation done, changed the roof lantern to 1.2 u-value, increased loft insulation to 500mm and I now pass the SAP with a gas boiler! Yes, door D3 has an assumed u-value. It's a fire door. Getting an insulated fire door is quite tricky.

Hi, D3 is an internal door into the garage. I'm double checking with my window people on the u-value of the Lantern

Here is my SAP report, just to make sure we are all looking at the correct problem before I discuss further. Changing the walls seems the only realistic option. SAP Report - Priory Way, Ripley.pdf

Still looking at options to insulate the 100mm gap. Is dritherm 32 the best to use or are there any better products with higher r values?

Thank you every one for your input, it's great to read so many suggestions. I would, if possible, prefer not to change the construction. The drawings have been passed by building control and I've had the structural calcs done. I would assume I would have to have these all done again if I went for 150mm wall insulation!? If needs must then I well. Just feel like I'm going backwards with every step forward at the moment Ok, Information taken from the building reg drawings The roof has 100mm mineral wool laid between joists with 2 layers of 150mm laid over The walls are 100mm Knauf Dritherm 32 Inner walls are 100mm plasmor fibolite 3.6n block Flooring is 150mm Kingspan or similar grade insulation I did wonder if the wall insulation could be a material with a lower u value - better insulation- which would help? Or perhaps insulated plasterboard as has been suggested. My rooms are quite generous so could stand it.

Unfortunately, you are correct. Permitted development rights are only gained once the property is signed off built as planning and occupied. Crazy UK planning laws!

Hi Dave, Yes, I have looked at ASHP. Unfortunately as it wasn't on the planning app I will have to submit a new application. When I spoke with planning they didn't like where the heating engineer wanted to put it, at the front of the property and advised that they couldn't support that location. I suggested the side of the house but was advised that environmental health would have to be consulted as it could create a noise issue for neighbours. This only leaves the rear of the property but this would mean the pump would be quite a distance from the HW tank and I understand that it would lose efficiency, also I'm not keen on having one at the rear, hence I'm looking for alternative solutions if I can find one.

Hi, The external walls are full fill with 100mm, the roof has 400mm and the floor has 150mm insulation When I spoke to the SAP guy he didn't advise adding more insulation in the walls as it wouldn't be cost effective and has sent me down the renewable path. The windows I'm hoping to use are https://www.liniar.co.uk/upvc-windows/flush-sash/ He said I would pass if I installed a log burner or electric fires. Basically I'm using carbon fuels to heat and provide hot water and that is the problem

Hi All, Sorry to resurrect this post but seemed better than starting a new one. I have recently had my SAP calcs done for my self build (yet to start) The SAP calcs failed our build as we plan using gas for hot water and heating. Solar hot water has been suggested as a solution. However, it really doesn't seem cost effective unless my figures are wrong. Could any of you wise members advise me? Yearly gas saving £120 ( checked old bills for 6 month summer usage ) RHI payment £230 pa ( from official site ) Over 7 years I would save £2450 With an estimated install cost of £4.5K having one of these systems is going to cost me £2k after 7 years. Am I missing something? Why would anyone even consider a solar hot water system? Unless of course I am missing something which is quite possible!! Thank you for reading

Hi All, Has anyone insulated with Jabfill HP? Would you use it again? I am also curious as to how the insulation would be treated at the eaves as you wouldn't be able to wrap over as you would other insulation? Cheers Ian novice self builder

Hi All, I'm at the planning stage for my 1st self build. Application is in with my local authority so it's a tense time!