DerbyLad

Hope you don’t mind me going off post, but what do you mean by shower enclosure comment? We have skimmed plasterboard and intend to apply a tanking solution before tiling. Would that sound correct?

Hi All, So, to update. My site, although visited by an Openreach surveyor, is only showing as copper being available. The whole street that the site is on has fttp. Spoke to an Openreach advisor who said they could sort this as the site was showing as red when it should show as green. I was to give it a few days and it would be fine. Of course it wasn’t, so another call to Openreach. Advisor told me I needed a ‘gold key’ (wtf) to give it 3 to 4 days and it would be sorted. You guessed it, still only showing copper. I’m now told I’ve got to start all over again and re register my site!! Has anyone got any contact numbers at Openreach for someone who knows what they’re doing as I’m losing the will to live. National contacts fine but an area contact would be great, I’m in Derbyshire. Thanks in advance

Hi, Thank you for the replies. OR supplied the ducting months ago and my builder has laid it with a cord to pull through. I have managed to blag an internal fibre extension cable from a local developer and that is now installed. My problem still exists, OR won’t connect me saying that I need to place an order with a provider such as Sky and then Sky will raise an order with OR to make the connection. Problem is, providers see my address but say they can’t quote me because I don’t have an active connection. Real chicken and egg situation. Any advice would be most welcome

Hope you don't mind me jumping in on this thread. Openreach have been and looked at my site and informed there will be no fee for the connection. I was given a number to ring 5 weeks before I wanted connecting. I've called the number and been told that I can't order a connection and that I have to chose a provider, such as Vodafone, place an order with them and then they can order the connection from Openreach. This is a pain as I will be paying for a service that I'm not ready to use. I don't want to wait till I'm ready to move in as I'm having a footway laid in the front of the plot and I dont want this digging up! So, I have proceeded to follow their instructions but I've hit an issue, I can't order broadband, as although my property is listed it comes up as not having a service, which of course it doesn't. So I'm in a chicken and egg situation!! Can anyone offer any advice?

Hi, Yes the French doors (which are now bi-fold doors) are facing south. The insulation is 100mm full fill, this was building reg's at the time (reg's might have been 75mm actually) of my material start, it's been a long project! We currently live next door and have a conservatory that is unusable on hot sunny days. I will probably go with solar glass after my weekend research. The room has plenty of light, so I'm not concerned about losing some light. Thanks all

Hi All, To the rear of our self build, we have a flat roof area that forms part of the kitchen. We have north facing bi-folds and East facing tall windows. The rear of the house including this section is east facing. In the flat roof we have a 2500mm x 1500mm flat roof light, slightly smaller than what is shown on the plan. My question, is it worth paying the extra £330 to have solar glass. My builder thinks not but I can't decide. Any experience or advice would be most welcome Thank you for reading Kitchen Plan June 2023.pdf

Hi, No, you can have a glass that is referred to as ‘Solar Glass’ It is supposed to help keep a room cool and reflect uv rays Thanks

Hi All, To the rear of our self build, we have a flat roof area that forms part of the kitchen. We have north facing bi-folds and East facing tall windows. The rear of the house including this section is east facing. In the flat roof we have a 2500mm x 1500mm flat roof light. My question, is it worth paying the extra £330 to have solar glass. My builder thinks not but I can't decide. Any experience or advice would be most welcome Thanks all

Thanks for the replies, My insurance does cover me for damage to neighbouring properties but only if I or my builder are negligent. If by doing the works on site, damage is caused to my neighbours property, perhaps cracks appear in their walls, and the builder has done all the works correctly, who picks up the bill? This is the case that my insurer made to me and why they say I should get it. I'm not defending the insurer I just would like to know if other self builders purchase this type of policy.

Hi All, My self build project is an infill, between two existing houses. I have self build insurance in place but having done some internet searching I have come across Non Negligent insurance. Had a quote at £1900 which is more that my self build policy. Is this type of insurance really needed for self build or is it more for commercial? Have any of you seasoned developers out there taken out this type of insurance? I look forward to hearing your thoughts. Thanks

Hi, Its for the whole ground floor. Kitchen, dining area, lounge, hall, utility and wc. Any thoughts on Continal over Myson?

Hi All, Has anyone experience of Myson and Continal for UFH? Continal are coming out much cheaper for my self build. Also, I'm sure this question has done the rounds but on their respective quotes, Myson are not putting pipe work under units but Continal are. What are your thoughts on this? Cheers

The company that maintains my supple ESP group sent me a link to this register saying I could use a company of this list if I preferred. I assumed that this meant the whole connection and not just connecting my meter!? Perhaps I'm wrong to assume!! https://www.lr.org/en/utilities/gas-industry-registration-scheme-girs/search/#accordion-137

Thank you for the replies. Blowerproof looks a good product Is this the airtight foam https://www.insulationsuperstore.co.uk/product/soudal-soudafoam-window-and-door-airtight-flexible-pu-foam-box-of-12.html Yes, my loft is a cold loft. My concern is the light fittings. I assume the plaster skim will seal the ceiling boards and I plan to keep a close eye on the plasterer to make sure they use a continuous bead to fix the boards. Should they use a special product to 'acoustic seal' the ceilings?

Hi All, Wasn't sure of the best forum for this question so apologies if I'm in the wrong one. My build will be brick and block. After plumbing and electrics 1st fix I plan to go over my build searching out and filling any gaps prior to the plasterer coming in. What are the best products to use? Similarly, after the plasterer and electric 2nd fix, I will be up in the loft going over things and checking the rest of the house around skirting areas etc Any advice on this and best products? Tapes, silicon etc Cheers

Thankfully my project will not need road closures as they are in the footway. Water will be on the opposite side of the plot. Gas, electricity, BT and Virgin will all be on one side so I assume the same 1mtr square hole will be dug up each time!? I'm also considering not having a BT line as I can have Virgin. Anyone else have a similar dilemma?

Thank you for the replies. Kind of seems silly for each company to come out and dig up the same hole to do their own connections but I guess that is the way it has to be. The services all run across the front of my plot in the footway, so plan to have them all run down one side of my plot.

Hi All, I live in Derbyshire and about to start a self build. I have been in touch with gas and electricity utilities for connection quotes. I have noticed on the gas quote that although ESP group own the mains I can use a different company to do the works provided they are registered to do so. This got me thinking that perhaps I could get one company to connect all my utilities. Is this something that I could do? Would members recommend this? If yes to above, any suggestions for companies in the Derbyshire area to do this? Thank you

Hi Moonshine, The building spec shows 25mm minimum gap. I've attached a screen shot for you to see

Hi All, My building reg drawings for a new self build, show a pitch roof being insulated with 90mm Kingspan between rafters and 40mm Kingspan with plasterboard to achieve a U-Value of .18w/m2k My plasterer has specified 100mm Xtratherm between rafters and 50mm Xtratherm with plasterboard Would anyone be able to answer my questions? Will I achieve the same U-value? Could there be an issue between the rafters with the xtra depth? I have also noted that 32.5mm Kooltherm 118 is specced around a roof lantern but the plasterer has specced Gyproc thermaline 30mm basic. Any thoughts on this? Thank you

I've been quoted £1800 for 100m2 for anhydride with £350 to sand. I was told that the Cemfloor would be around £2150 with no need to sand

They also offered a Cemfloor fast drying screed that didn't need sanding. Perhaps this would be better?

Wow, thank you for all your replies. More to this than I realised. I will need to discuss with my builder to see what the floor supplier has specced. The company that suggested 50mm screed also suggested that I had the floor sanded. I didn't understand why but now I do, so thank you guys. The screed that they would use is an anhydrite liquid screed. My drawings specify 150mm insulation and yes, I'm having UF heating.

Did you have long spans on your beams? I have looked on my building reg drawings and sizes aren't indicated. My longest span is just over 5 meters What is it that you dislike about flowing screeds and what have you seen from the ones local to you?

The insulation is going on top of the beams. We will have underfloor heating laid on top of the insulation