Mulberry View

No I haven't. What's involved in doing so?

For a PRV? When I've built a whole Nudura house without being a qualified builder?!

Our Static Caravan has a Worcester 24i Junior combi boiler... It's losing pressure. I re-pressurised the boiler to 1.5 bar (cold) and ran the boiler, there is water dripping quite fast out of the PRV discharge, but the system pressure doesn't exceed 2.5 bar with heating on.I'm guessing it's the PRV that's at fault? Is this it? Any words of wisdom here? I'd be grateful... It doesn't look like rocket-science to change it?

All whilst we fund road projects in the Far East. I wonder if their roads will soon be better than ours.

My doors are being fitted soon. Can anyone share some tips/pics on EPDM Threshold detailing? My Architect shows the EPDM and main DPM under the insulation terminating under the door threshold, but I don't plan to have the DPM in when the doors go in. What can be done there? I'm looking at Illbruck ME220 and their formed corner pieces. This is an example of one of my openings... As usual, all help is appreciated...

I top chord hung the Posis in the main house scheme, so I'm no stranger to the longer top chords, it's normal building practice I'm less clear on! So, I can sit the Posis directly on the masonry of the inner leaf blockwork and just oversail the top cord across the cavity to the inside face of the outer leaf? I'll try and sketch something soon.

I just found this, could it be the way to terminate the Posi Joists at the high-end of the building? I need the masonry to terminate level with the tops of the Posi joists really because the outside will be rendered, with no traditional soffit. Obviously I won't have the extra course the detail denotes. Here the OSB would be fixed within about 130mm of the edge. The only question it leaves me with is how to deal with the OSB oversailing onto the flat-topped masonry? Or could I just foam the small resulting gap around the edge, then bring the inner leaf up around the Posis? I've asked Pasquill for their help, so I guess they might shed some light on it.

OK, so masonry terminated flat, wall-plate added also flat, then Posi essentially top-chord hung on the outer wall-plate (with some angled wedges) and fixed down. Where is the inner leaf brought up to? Built around the Posis or only to the underside if the Posis? Cavity closed? Sorry for all the questions.

Thanks @Russell griffiths To make the rest of the structure work, I can see me using a timber ledger plate bolted to the blockwork for the ceiling joists to pick up on. They need to resist pull-out, so I imagine I'll be using a combination of nails and screws, along with nailing the tops of the hangers over onto the top of the ledger. As for the wall-ties, I don't fully understand that, but will a brickie know what to do? Or is this just regular wall-ties as have been put in all the way up so far? I'm pretty sure the roof on this will be EPDM, so I expect I'll lay an OSB deck on top of the Posis, oversailing onto a timber wall-plate with angle-packers on the top of the masonry. Does that all sound right?

The £20k girl is history. That a blessing and a curse. I feel relieved to not have the arguments and arsehole'ish attitude, but we're left trying to figure out a lot of these weak details.

I am always grateful for the help on here, I couldn't have done this without. 😎

How would this apply if I go for blocks?

Honestly, I hadn't considered it being anything other than timber, blocks would be so much easier. Just goes to show what it's like having your brain scrambled when you're a bit out of your depth! What sort of blocks would be best for this? And yes, the drawing is shit, its what we got from a £20k Architect. Makes me feel sick.

This is a general arrangement detail for my Car Port, the layout is not something I'm looking to go forward with exactly. Can anyone help with a bit of practical advice as I'm not overly experienced in timber framing. The masonry is built, inner and outer leaves are level, as per the drawing. Next to go on are the 47x100 wall-plates (I've allowed 10-13mm bed). Does the masonry cavity need to be closed? If so, what with? Should I put a DPC under the wall-plates? I don't think I need 50mm battens for the render boards and by reducing them to 25mm, I can centralise the on-end 250mx50 timbers a bit better on the wallplates. I plan to add noggins between them. I also plan to set the outer wall-plate in a bit to allow the render boards to skirt down over the wall-plates, as we clearly can't apply the render in the way shown. Any help to prevent my further procrastination is gratefully received.

The main issue in the detail provided was the DPM... With it as per the drawing, I cannot fix the Compacfoam to anything up to and whilst the door is being fitted. It's also a fair old chunk, only because the SE said it needs to be as wide as it is tall to prevent 'mushrooming'. I guess the additional insulation needs to be protected from any potential damp coming up through the B&B?