Drew1000

One for the tape and finishers as that's what Ill be getting done. When I am plaster boarding the window in-goes I will be fitting a square edge against the windows. Would the tape and finishers prefer a straight edge or taper on the inside where it meets the main walls

The radiators are in the attic room and I need to fit them so I can establish vertical pipe drops and pipe runs before plaster boarding the bedroom ceilings. Supplementary question guys . I was watching an American You Tube video on "drywalling" and the guy as using a "no oil spray" on bits of plaster board that had the white paper removed/torn prior to applying plaster. never seen anything like that used here in UK. Anyone else seen something similar, I expect some sort of primer would suffice but don't know if its really necessary.

Peter, many thanks, 20A will probably be enough as separate oven and hob Regards

Can anyone tell me if it is acceptable under current regs to have a 4 gang grid switch with different circuits. Ie Cooker, washing machine and tumble drier and fridge/Freezer. This could possible be three different circuits.

Thanks for replies guys, must admit I like the idea of using just one type and will check this out. Regards

For clarificationProdave its tape and fill not skim.

Hi, Doing 2 new timber frame builds and will get the pros to do the tape and finishing. I do need to do some small areas like cupboards before mounting boiler etc and behind radiators to save breaking connections later. Can someone recommend make/manufacturer of first coat and finishing coat as its a while since I have done any taping and finishing. Thanks in advance

Thedreamer, Many thanks for reply. When you refer to the breather membrane on the outside part of the OSB are you referring to the TF Protect 200.

Yes there will be a ventilated cavity between kit and brick. Thanks for reply A-L My intention is to put it on the warm side of the insulation anyway and then the battens and service strip to maintain a 25 air gap to back of plasterboard. Regards

Hi, I have read a few threads on where the VCL should be on a timber frame build however I have a nagging question on the effectiveness of the VCL if using an additional PIR board. I am building a timber frame where the construction is from outside in as follows :- TF Protect 200 9mm OSB 145mm cavity with Knauff Frametherm 35 VCL Layer I wish to up the specification by adding a 25mm layer of PIR insulation on the inside, 25mm timber battens to create service void and then 12.5 plasterboard. Two questions really I have Protect Ultra breather membrane (reflective stuff) for my VCL. So where is the best place to put it. Technical rep at Protect said that if I do not have an air gap then I am spending money for nothing as this product needs the air gap to work properly (and if I am not having an airgap then something like Barriair would be more suited.) Does using a foil backed PIR insulation not negate the whole point of a VCL regardless of where it is fitted in the build up. Thanks in anticipation from those a lot more experienced than I am. Regards

Thanks for advice guys. Used FCM 750 as that is what I was looking for but could not remember the name. Regards

Hi, I am about to erect a timber frame and the kit company have said they do not supply the membrane that I used on my last timber frame between te downstairs panels and first floor panels. It sits on top of the ground floor panels and laps up the outside covering the perimeter joists before lapping back inside on the upper floor where the first floor panels sit on top of it. It is then taped to the VCL both downstairs and upstairs to maintain air tight integrity. My last kit company supplied it but I am having difficulty establishing the correct material to use for this part of the build. Any help much appreciated on make or manufacturers/suppliers or what I should be ordering.

I have paid the deposit on 2 structural kits from Alexander Timber Design in Troon. Hoping to take delivery 1st week in December. They were the most competitive and have been good to deal with so far. Can't comment much further until I get the kits on site and see how they fit but I would certainly recommend the structural option. That way you do not have as big an outlay at the start. You will need to supply your own doors/windows, plasterboard, flooring etc. Using this option gives you good flexibility as you buy materials when they are needed (and can usually pick up a few bargains from sales/builders merchants/gumtree/ebay etc I bought a kit from Scotframe before and through no fault of theirs the project ran on a bit but they deliver to a set date for each phase and although there was some flexibility it was not really enough for what I needed so if you go down the full kit option make sure you keep to schedule as material will be turning up to pre determined dates. With the structural kit you can include all the internal partitions and this gives you pretty much a clean slate to work from once erected and as mentioned before gives you greater flexibility regarding the flow of materials. Hope that helps.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed with some advice. Much appreciated.

Hi, Looking for some advice on roof windows. I am about to have a timber frame kit erected which has attic trusses with room in the loft. My drawing shows 4 roof windows (no particular reason I can think of as it was not an architect who drew up the drawings. The attic room was a late addition to the plans due to a simple roof design and as it is quite a large house it seemed a good idea to put a room in the attic even though it may not get used immediately. So if my trusses will be at 600mm centres can someone explain the different sizes options of roof windows. I looked at a site recently and the windows comes in a variety of widths. For example 55cm, 66cm, 78, cm 114cm. Which ones fit between the joists and which ones need bridled. Joiners will be erecting timber frame and fitting roof windows so probably bread and butter for them. I would just like to understand a bit more about roof lights and appreciate and advice from those with a bit of experience. Longer term the attic room could be used as an extra bedroom and en suite. Should I stick with 4 narrow windows or perhaps 2 wide windows. Any advice much appreciated

Forgot to ask what the recommended distance between fixes was, assume 600mm

Hi Thanks for info on concrete fixings. This is for a self build. I was wanting to fix the soleplate down before the kit arrives to save some time on the delivery day.

Hi Looking for some advice on best bolts/screws/anchors to fix sole plate to blockwork. What is the industry standard used these days. Thanks in advance of any advice Regards