Pemu

Yep, but the cost and hassle of internally putting in brackets/beams and all the mess that will cause is beyond anyones budget and tolerance threshold. Therefore, removing the majority of the stack from on top seemed like a good half way house until we can get a roofer in to do the rest properly. Some of the neighbours have done the same.

There's a chimney stack on the party wall in the back room of Victorian terrace. Previous owners on both sides removed the breast and there are a few courses of brick in either loft. Perhaps 10 courses below the roofline and about 15 above so seems very too heavy. I was wondering if it would help to get up there, knock off about 10-12 courses and seal it up until time and finances allow a proper removal and patching of roof. Neither property is using the chimney for anything and neighbour is happy for it to be removed but can't afford to contribute anything ATM.

Good afternoon everyone I hope everyone is well. I'm struggling to find good information online about how to build up the floor for a vinyl wet room, ie., what goes on top of the sub-floor, what adhesive to use, how it's set, etc. I assume that's because these things are usually done by specialist companies. I'm trying to get the best DIY result I can with my limited capabilities. Scenario: I am installing a new bathroom on a suspended timber floor. We have a large family (including kids who aren't always careful) and frequents guests. Previously we've had leaks that have come through to the ceiling below. Although just tiling it all properly would probably mitigate that (as it previously wasn't done properly) I want to go belt and braces and essentially create a wet room floor with a drain in it also. This make cleaning the bathroom easy too as I could clean the toilet much more freely and then wash the water down into floor gully. Current floor is 18mm OSB and I'm currently looking at Ploysafe wetroom vinyl: https://flooringking.co.uk/product/nordic-grey-4090/ I plan to then take it 150mm up the wall with coving. There's quite a bit of info about how to do that part online. Now, can I just glue that down onto the OSB or would the screws in the OSB start to show through, or the small ridges in the fibres (as OSB doesn't have a mirror finish)? If not, what would I put between before the OSB and the glue and how would I secure that? Do I need to lay some things screed? Do I need to use hardboard sheets? Also, what type of glue would be better for me to use? The website lists F44 as recommended but then there's F46 pressure sensitive adhesive. From googling, I couldn't fully understand the benefit of the pressure sensitive stuff over the normal stuff. I've seen in some videos them using contact adhesive. Where is that needed and what's the benefit in that? Also, is it worth me using a tanking kit before putting the vinyl or would the vinyl make that redundant? It's a small bathroom of only 1.7m x 1.9m so I can do it in one piece without any seams as the rolls are 2m wide. Thanks in advance for any thoughts, advice and experiences.

Thanks for all that. I guess that might explain why the current one is not very effective despite being so loud. So would I be right to assume that the powerful ones, by default, have 6" exhausts which is why they don't mention anything specific about it in the listings and drawings? I guess that means I'll have to buy a 6" core drill. I hate to think how much that's gonna be.

Hi I'm trying to work out which cooker hood to get and also make sure I have the right wiring/ducting planned beforehand. I want a powerful one as my previous one wasn't too good at getting rid of the stone curry smells our cooking produces. I have read mention online of the more powerful ones requiring 6" or 150mm ducting which makes sense but I was struggling to find the information I need on websites like Screwfix and AO. The listing don't say what the exhaust looks like and what size ducting is needed. I've currently got a 4" / 100m hole and I need to know if the type I need would need a larger hole and then I'd have to plan to enlarge that and so on. Any general advice in the topic would also be helpful.

Thanks for the heads-up. Conveniently they sell them in Screwfix too, but they're all on next-day as opposed to over the counter. Has anyone come across the AKW Tuff Form stuff which is less than half the price? https://www.heatandplumb.com/acatalog/akw-tuff-form-waste-adaptor-25124

Good evening I have a suspended wooden floor on ground floor. On top of the joists is 18mm OSB. There's at last 30cm of clearance beneath. I would like to put a small, round floor drain into the bathroom. I intend to finish the floor with linoleum/vinyl. All the drains I could find online seem to show it being installed into concrete. Are there any particular models that would be more suitable for my floor or is there any particular way of installing it the isn't easy to glean from the general instructions that are usually for concrete? Thanks

Thanks Let me see if I can find anything

Good afternoon all I'm making a wet room and thinking of doing all the walls and ceiling in hygiene cladding. My thinking is that it will be easy to maintain whilst being waterproof. At the same time, I'm thinking, if I just put it straight onto the stud work, it will save me the cost buying and installing plasterboard or OSB behind. There will be sound insulation between the studs behind and then plasterboard or bricks on the other side (depending on which wall). I will appreciate any thoughts on the above including any recommendations for which cladding to use. I don't want to overspend but don't want something that will fall apart if someone coughs at it.

I think what I am exploring is classified as a "garage conversion" and according to the article below, there are companies that specialise in this. If anyone can recommend any such companies that serve North London, please do so. https://www.homebuilding.co.uk/garage-conversion/ They also mention that foundation will likely need investigating to see if they need reinforcing. The also mention it requires "change of use". Is that like a separate application to the full planning application?

Thank you for all the very useful advice everyone has offered. Based on my specific circumstances, I'm currently inclined towards seriously exploring the idea of getting planning permission to convert the current structure into a habitable/rentable space. The main attraction is that this will help me buy more time to start the eventual build and give me a relative safety net if something goes wrong and I can't build at all in the next 5 years. As advised above, I understand that will require various things like a proper planning application, separation of services, register for council tax, etc. San anyone share thoughts or advice on the following for now: 1: Is there anyway I can get a survey done of the current structure to advise me if it's likely I could get planning permission for it as well as a list of work that would be required to meet BC regulations, etc. ? Is there any particular type of professional service I can employ for that and how much might that cost? 2: The current structure has been there for well over 10 years (well, 41 to be precise). Will that make BC, etc., any easier, or will they hold the building up to the same standard as a new build? The owner doesn't have any documentation for the work as it was probably carried out a few owners ago. Thanks again

Am I correct in understanding that standard residential duty will be payable on the purchase price of the land regardless of any of the above possibilities due to it originally being part of a residential property? I read some details on this site: https://www.mortgagesforbusiness.co.uk/news-insight/2015/february/stamp-duty-land-tax-on-development-land-purchases/ If anyone knows any different please let me know.

What do you mean by "detailed"? DO you mean submitting detailed plans to the council, including engineer's drawings, etc.? If so, none of that has been done. It's just a basic outline for the principal planning permission. Sorry if I'm messing up all the jargon.

Thank you for the ideas. When you say Outline Permission expiring, you mean the 3 years on the permission for the new dwelling expiring or coming close by the time the seller has managed to get all the utilities separated, etc? A lot to think about... Please do continue with your thoughts, even anything that's stating the obvious as it probably won't be for me.

Thank you for the thoughts. So, the cost and hassle of making it habitable, only to then later demolish it could potentially outweigh the income gained from renting it out for 18-24 months. The potential income in that period would be £10-15k. Other than all of the above, from a Planning Permission perspective, would would the process be? So, from the previous post, I understand the land registry aspect is a separate, isolated one and perhaps not that relevant here? After that's done, or irrespective of that, what would the process be (in terms of applications/etc.) of converting an existing structure into bedsit? For argument's sake, if we agreed to go through all of the hassle, what would this sort of conversion be called and what sort of professional and legal services and expertise will be required and what kind of time frame?