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Apache

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  1. I don't think my 4.4l V8 range rover is much slower and I bet it makes a nicer noise whilst doing it. Do you have a tow bar? 😆
  2. I'm not the OP and I won't be in this position for maybe 18 months, but my initial answer is no. There are so many companies offering to do, sometimes very simple things, for you for a fee, that I find it a minefield of who I should pay, who I should accept industry standard figures from and where I should lick my thumb and go by what I think sounds about right. I think all we all want is a nice warm house, that doesn't cost a fortune to heat. I drop into the category of wanting to do as much as I can myself. Are there individuals or companies recommended for heating design who don't then want to sell me anything or install themselves?
  3. Milwauke Surge - 12V and 18V varients. The 12V surge is my go to, much quieter and still packs a punch. https://www.powertoolmate.co.uk/power-tools/milwaukee/cordless-impact-drivers/milwaukee-m12fqid-0-12v-m12-fuel-sub-compact-surge-hydraulic-impact-driver-bare-.htm
  4. What car do you drive? My Discovery's wheel nut torque is 145nm! Too much and you shear things and damage heads. (I never thought I'd say it but I reach for my 12V impact driver the most, and only use 18V for the really big stuff)
  5. Maybe I'm naive, but of the endless choices I need to make in this project, I hadn't given the specific type of insulation a great deal of thought. I currently live in an old cottage so if I'm sat in 15 degrees now, I'll be lucky (storage heaters and log burner). Unsure what you mean by permanency? I didn't expect you'd see any difference once the building is finished, whether blocks, timber frame etc. Clad on outside and boarded and plastered inside. I have a friend who is a well respected local builder - they chose a SIP construction for his son's house. No complaints with the method, construction etc. They will be a reasonably affluent family and, as builders, could have built it in any way they chose - subject to meeting the look required by the planners in the parks. I hadn't considered the concrete filled blocks, no. The extension stands as a separate building, joined by a short glazed corridor. The planners wanted clear separation of the new and old. It will be a shared airspace but two distinct spaces. The long game is to build a house to live in, it's at my place of work, has a huge workshop behind, 1 hectare site. Be happy living here 'forever' or until too old and knackered to look after the place. I have two young boys and with housing costs, I want them to have lots of space - it's madness building a 3 year old (5 if build competed on target) a room with an en-suit - but if housing prices continue as they are, they might be at home for a while. The boys rooms, in the extension, mean they can have some freedom/privacy as they get older, and blast some music without it affecting me so much. The stone building is well-built but will be completely insulated, and hopefully airtight to modern standards. Some large areas of glazing will increase heat losses, but they are a lot of the character of the building (two large arched doors where trains drove through the shed).
  6. There is no need to go for a copy charger. Get a starter kit if you need drill driver, batteries and charger. https://www.powertoolmate.co.uk/power-tools/makita-store/cordless-powertool-kits/makita-dlx2414st-18v-brushless-twin-kit-dhp487-combi-drill-and-dtd157-impact-dri.htm £205, if you price the drill/driver, impact and the batteries separately its £250 before case and charger. https://www.powertoolmate.co.uk/power-tools/makita-store/cordless-reciprocating-saws/makita-djr183z-18v-lxt-reciprocating-saw-body-only.htm
  7. My project really has two halves - an old stone 'barn' that will be converted to living accommodation downstairs with 2 en suite baths upstairs. I have a SIP extension planned. That will have a large kitchen downstairs with a few small rooms at the back. Upstairs will be two good-sized bedrooms for my boys. Spoke with a few people, local builder, 'architect' although he does drawings and planning he's strictly not. All were favourable. The builders' son (also a builder) lives in a SIP house. The appeal for me - doing as much as I can self build. In a short period of time a structure appears that I then finish off. Cost seems favorable. It feels like a much 'easier' method of building, for me, than traditional block/stone. Even having a solid surface of roof to clad feels appealing. @Nickfromwales seems to think I'm mad. Born and bred in Yorkshire, have a thick skin. Tell me how it is. Thanks
  8. I'm on the Milwaukee platform but Powertoolmate always best for price. If you don't pay for next day can take a couple of days to arrive. Good stock, frequent offers.
  9. For my sins, I'm a vet Did some reading on that last night and I see some of the issues. Clays at Skipton seem one of the better companies, I hope. Believe their own team assembles. I have machinery on site, other than a crane. Need to find out if my self erected Quick-stage scaffold is sufficient or not.
  10. Thanks for the welcome. I don't have an answer to your question, so I may not! Was suggested by my architect and seems a simple system to have a structure built quickly that I can slowly finish.....
  11. Hello In the early stages of converting a former railway building into a house in the Yorkshire Dales. We will also have a SIP extension. Trying to do as much as I can myself, but I'll pay some people to do some parts. Would love to be in for Christmas 2027, but no promises!
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