connick159

Do you have batteries and PV which would be factored into you cost or just an ASHP only? I'm looking to switch as well. Only have ashp and are 100% electric for power and heating. Diolch

Would cosy be worth switching to, from agile, without any batteries? We only have the heat pump and nothing else. Will have a look at tomato too. Cheers

Good to know, thanks. Is there any publicly available info on this?

Hi all, Considering a switch from octopus agile to OVO with heat pump add on. We already have a smart meter and E7 so wondering if any experience / advice here regarding the best tariff for the baseline OVO tariff? Was looking at the "simpler energy" one via direct debit but notice they also have the PAYG tariff with day and night rates similar to the "simpler" one. Any thoughts or things to look out for. Anyone on this heat pump tariff with thoughts? Thanks in advance.

is 1:80 fall adequate for next to the house? a bit of mixed info out there.

Here is the alternative i've thought of. This red lines are channel drains. Pink line is a french land drain drain. Thick red lines fall of land. Blue lines are fall on the patio. Which would you do?

Hi all, I've got a concept design for a large patio area but struggling to work out if I should be falling the patio away from the house, which means its working against the natural slope of the land. i.e. is that even achievable? The blue arrows are the way i want to fall the patio as its away from the house. The orange asterix is 12 metres from the opposite corner of the patio (under the trees opposite) The red arrows are the natural slope of the land. It not a massive slope but if I do a 1:80 fall it means that the end closest to the steps need to be 150mm higher which then starts making the steps too steep over that area. One idea i had was to put in a channel drain just at the top of the steps, right across the patio and then using the natural slope of the land to direct the water into the drain. (There will be another drain at the bottom of the steps with the lower patio by the house falling towards that) Would love to hear the thoughts of members as to how they've handled similar design for draining on large patio's with the natural fall going back to ward the house. Is the top patio far enough away from the house not to worry about the fall going towards the house?

I've now done this and rebooted the system. No change in that 2nd UH8 still not putting the pump into heating mode when stats calling for heat. Does it automatically set 2 zones once the dip switch turned to on or do I need to do that via the main controller too? I guess the other option could be to connect both UH8s to IN1 right? Is that doable. Cables are pretty tight as is tbh. This is the option from the instructions that best represent what I'm trying to do.

This happened. The stats on UH8 number 2 are calling for heat and the pump on that manifold is running but... The ASHP itself is showing as Paused when I look at the main controller. The flow pipe is pretty cool to touch too so the heating is not running. As soon as I call for heat again on the controller connected to IN1 the heatimg fires up (the play symbol is displayed).

Hi Simon, Thanks for the continued support in this... Much appreciated! Where they were connected before, to L/N/E block, they were reading 5.7v. After moving to IN1 and IN6 on FTC6 they now read 0.012v or something like that. Now on the L/N/E it reads

Thanks Gary, the FTC6 the terminal block looks slightly different but I've now removed them from TB2 and into IN1 and IN6 as per pic. Turned all power off to do so and when powered back on everything is up and running again. Heating and hot water flowing to both manifolds Interestingly, back on the UFH, when measuring the voltage on the heat enabled, it now reads 12v where as before it was 5. When checking voltage on the IN1 and IN6 on FTC6 they now read 0.012 or something like that. Where they were connected before, to L/N/E it they were reading 5.7v.

Thanks Gary, Only a single zone at moment. The question I have is about the actual wiring task. The guidance is to wire them into the terminal block on the FTC, which I get. What I'm unsure of is which of the 'strands' within the "heat enabled" cable from the heatmiser controller controller go into the terminal block (there are 3 strands (Lr/Ls/E)) so which ones go to terminal block? Cheers

At the UH8 controller, With the multimeter, when holding the red probe on Lr and black on Ls there is 0 volts. If I move one probe to the earth I get 5.7v when it's calling for heat. Same numbers where they connect at the FTC end. Is it a matter of moving the Ls and Lr on the FTC end into the terminal blocks IN1 and 6 as per the manual? I assume I can leave the earth as it is.

Nothing at all from uh8's connected to the terminal block. Both wires in from each uh8 connected to the same spot on FTC as in pic. Not checked the voltage back on uh8 when calling for heat. I have a multimeter somewhere so will do that tomorrow. Thanks again. I'm baffled as the heating is working and each manifold getting heat when calling for it. Obvs not right though.

Nah it's deffo black cable at the uh8 end. It also had a label on it at FTC (just below my finger) "Heat enable 2." Hope it's not a totally wrong type of cable he's used as it'll be a bastard to chase a new one between the two points. On the other end, the heatmiser UH8, the brown is connected to "Ls" the green and yellow is connected to "E" and black is connected to "Lr".

On the other end, the heatmiser UH8, the brown is connected to "Ls" the green and yellow is connected to "E" and black is connected to "Lr".

You wouldn't have a pic of where the uh8 cable comes into IN1 on the ecodon FTC would you. I suspect my sparky has stuffed it up as my uh8 heat enable feed is not connected at all to the IN1 block. I think I need to connect the live and live switch to the block but not 100% sure. Thanks for the post and glad your problem is solved. Be good to hear how the remote option worked out as I'm considering the same. I have all heatmiser stats in rooms hardwired back to 2 uh8 (one in the front of house, one in back). If what you have done works well for you it'll likely be a good option for us too.

Ok, so I looked at the FTC6 now and have found the 2 cables (heat enable) from each of the UH8 controllers. What I have found is that they are both wired into the L/N/E block but nothing at all into any of the input terminal blocks. Given that, I dunno how this is working but it seems to be, just doesn't seem like its working right but... The stats call for heat, the heat pump sends the hot water to the manifolds but how? And could this also be the reason for the erratic flow temps?

Thanks for this post. Its really helped! What if you had 2 UH8 wiring centres, one in front of the house and another for a new extension at the back of the house. Each with their own manifolds. How could you connect up the 2nd UH8 back to the FTC6?

I was looking at the 'Thermister Reading' page. It was the THW1 which was set for the flow temp.

Here is a pic of the ufh8 wiring in area 2. All looks ok. no valve on this 2nd manifold hence the loop 'UFH Valve" I'll have to check FTC6 as suggested. I've opened it but bamboozled by all the switches etc. Will try and read some diagrams or instruction to find out where the 'heat enable' from this 2nd UFH8 controller should connect to on the Ecodan FTC6. @simonD - any pointers for where to look in FTC6 first? Thanks again.

Thanks Simon, It seems to work ok when area 1's calling for heat. It's only the 2nd heatmiser unit that it happens on. Good shout re the hotwater but we have that set at only 43 degrees and its on a timer to come on at 4am to 6:30am. The only time it would go to 60 is doing a legionella cycle which would need the immersion heater to get it up to that. I'll take a look at the 2nd heatmiser wiring centre and maybe post a pic.

Hi all, I'm struggling to get hold of the ASHP mob and sparky who did the initial installs but suspect there is a problem coming from the second UFH8 (heatmiser controller) which is located by the second manifold and controlled by Heat miser room stats. To help me try to explain... Lets call the new extension "area 1" and the old cottage "area 2". Both areas have an UFH manifold each. Both areas have a heatmiser UFH8 wiring centre each and, both have several room stats connected back to their respective UFH8 wiring centres. The UFH8 wiring centres are then both connected back to the Mitsubishi ecodan FTC6 controller. Ecodan ASHP is set to Weather Comp to control the flow temps. Problems: When "area 2's" stats call for heat, the wiring centre in that area lights up for the correct room calling for heat but, when i go back to the FTC6 controller, the heating icon still has the 'Paused' symbol displayed just like when there is no heating being requested at all. At the same time, the flow pipes on area 2's manifold are hot. Sometimes way too hot. Today, the flow temp hit 60 degrees even though weather comp is set to a max of 40. If i force area 1 heating on by turning up a room stat then the heating icon on the ecodan changes from Paused to Play symbol. I'm really at a loss here and can't work out why: a) the call for heat in Area2 is not making the ecodan heating activate (from paused to play) b) How the hell can the flow temp go to 60 deg if Weather Comp is set to a max of 40 at -3 deg outside. Any thoughts / tips /pointers would be very much appreciated. Thanks

Update: Unfortunately they couldn't finish all the testing as a fair few junction boxes in attic still need finishing and boxing off but they tested what they can and everything has passed except lighting (due to attic work required) and kitchen sockets due to an "earth continuity fault". They asked for the other guy to finish the JBs in the attic and fix the earth fault and they'll return next week to finish up and test the rest as they are working away from tomorrow. Here are a few of the latest pics. The before and afters are amazing when I look at them side by side!